robocorpse

I concur, wood is a bastad to refinish without proper compressor, gun and EXPERIENCE. I have done maybe 12 guitars now using carpaint and hours (and hours and hours) of cutting back, reapplying, cutting back, reapplying, top laquer, cutback, reapply, T-Cut til you have RSI.... and I am still not comfortable with it. I am not in a position where I have the time, money and workload to bother buying a decent compressor and gun, then learning how to use it properly, so I am stuck with my own tedious work, or paying someone 200 quid for a proper job from someone who does it for a living. If you know any good bike people, get them to quote a minimum 6 coat cellulose finish with cutbacks inbetween each coat, then final cut/polish. Add another 4 coats if you want a clear coat over the colour to give it more depth. If they offer you change from 150, its up to you if you wanna chance it, or go to a pro who's done GUITARS before. If its a bolt-on neck cheap-mid value bass, you have nothing to lose, as you can just strip it back to wood if they mess it up. [quote name='Bloodaxe' post='687666' date='Dec 17 2009, 07:46 PM']Fair enough, but metal ain't wood. Pete.[/quote]

My quintuplets, as was a few years back, but I still own 3 of them, so I am in fact, missing "twins" from this picture [attachment=38415:5ricks_shed.jpg]

MH this time round was crap. Sound wasnt great, Damned were poor, Motorhead weren't trying, and the number of fights and scuffles in the crowd (in the gig, the bar, and outside) was more than I have ever seen before. Packed full of arseholes basically, and the Missus has said thats her last MH gig now. Shame, it was going great while Girlschool were on, then it all started to get ugly. Having said that, Lemmy coming on and doing "Please Don't Touch" with Girlschool sort of made up for it a bit.

[quote name='AndyTravis' post='654953' date='Nov 15 2009, 01:31 AM']This is werrry nice, and for a fifty year old Fender none too shabby. I like it. Luckily. £9k short.[/quote] Its been relisted again. New Kings Rd vintage are always way OTT on their asking prices. Walk in there with 6k and haggle if you really want it.

Correct, the PSU can theoretically be any rating over whats needed. You should take some headroom into account, but also dont buy anything too powerful, or it will be a waste of money and won't be working to full potential. Add up the total draw of all your pedals, double it and find the nearest rating of PSU, so if it comes to (say) 280mA total for your pedals, then buy a 500mA PSU and that should be fine for all eventualities, and give you some extra power if you chucked another pedal on there, as you are unliklely to be running all of them at the same time anyway. 5000mA is overkill, and also probably "switch-mode" design, these are to be avoided unless they are of *exceptional* quality, as they can be very noisy (chucking nasty buzzing sounds round your pedal rig), and they are very difficult for your average Joe to repair if they pop. Get a normal transformer design, somewhere between 300mA and 1000mA (1A). The doubling is just a precaution, but you don't want to run the PSU to full capacity because if anything goes wrong and a pedal momentarily grabs loads of power, you will knock the whole lot out. A resettable fuse on the 9v line is a great addition if you are building your own power distro, no messing about with little glass fuses in the dark mid-gig, just hit the reset button. [quote name='Phaedrus' post='668054' date='Nov 28 2009, 10:14 AM']My understanding of leccy is basic at best, so can someone tell me if I've got this right: My FX pedals will each need 9volts, at their stated supply rate of whatever amperes. I get it that a 9v multi-output PSU can supply the 9v to each pedal, but these PSUs seem to "have" much higher ampere ratings than most pedals, yeah? Do the pedals just "take" the 9v at whatever rate they need, and the ampere rating of the multi-PSU is just what's available to the pedals? So no matter how high the ampere rating of the PSU is, there's no risk of damaging the pedals? If that's the case, then whether I choose a stand-alone PSU, or something like the GigRig with a separate PSU, is it the case that so long as the PSU ampere rating is the same as or higher than the sum of all my pedal's ampere ratings, things'll be fine? If that is the case, should I be looking at the PSU with the highest ampere rating I can find, to ensure plenty of capacity for expansion? Or is a PSU rated at 5000 milliamps (yes, there is one!) OTT or potentially a risk? Thanks, Mark[/quote]

An old band of mine were paid off from a fairly major gig once even before we had soundchecked, because the singer of the headline band (well known 80s alternative outfit) was an old teenage enemy of our singer, didn't want us on the bill, and apparently "didn't know we were playing", despite the gig having been advertised for nearly a month. Well I say "paid off", they threatened to have us beaten up and our gear taken if we didn't leave, but the promoter stepped in, and they just gave us our fee. We got our own back as the FOH engineer was a mate of ours, and 20 quid we slipped him was well spent

OK, I have had Steinberger, Status and Kubicki basses. I love the hi-fi sound (especially my new Status!) but am having problems with string clearance between string and the face of the bass, so digging in with a pick is NOT an option on the Status. The Steinberger doesn't sound as good, but it has bags of room to really get stuck in with the pick and not smash hell out of the top between the pickups where my picking hand usually lives. This is consequently why the Steiny is my fave live bass. Does anyone have experience of enough graphite basses (preferably neck through) to give me some pointers on which ones have better clearance than my S2?

Oh yeah, and Lemmy : "Die You Bastard" off the Another Perfect Day album, my favourite bass sound ever. Also: Ray Shulman "Cogs In Cogs" (Gentle Giant) Jean Yves Theirault "Tornado" (Voivod) Greg Lake - "Tarkus - Eruption" (ELP) Klaus Fluoride - "Riot/Bleed For Me" (DKs)

Nobodys mentioned Les Claypool yet !!! "Jerry Was A Racecar Driver" (with apologies to King Crimson!)

Absolutely!, lovely trade done in the time honoured motorway services coffee concession, to a handful of intrigued onlookers asking us to "give us a song mate!" while we played away sans-amps. Loads of fun. Would trade again, absolutely top bloke, cheers! [quote name='doctor_of_the_bass' post='665818' date='Nov 26 2009, 01:22 AM']Just a bump for Pete!!! Leave me some nice message mate! Heheh! Nick[/quote]

[quote name='sdgrsr400' post='662618' date='Nov 23 2009, 01:21 PM']Also think about the return journey through US security. If you look anyway suspicious (i.e. not white) then you might have trouble. I heard a story on another board that stringed instruments were being challenged because "you could remove the strings and use them to throttle someone".[/quote] That happened to a friend of mine last year, he was travelling from Holland to the UK, and despite confirming with the airline in advance and buying a seat for the guitar to make sure it wouldn't get bashed around, they CONFISCATED the strings off his vintage Gretsch (and the spares in the case) because they could be removed and used as an offensive weapon. On a one hour flight? by a normal looking white 50 year old guy carrying 5000 quid worth of Gretsch? Didn't help that he landed on Saturday afternoon to travel straight to the gig, and needed strings in a desperate hurry in a foreign country at closing time. Also the underlying fear that the 60 year old neck/truss rod would be upset by sudden removal of tension with no truss rod spanner to hand. Bah.

I stuck EMG35's in my Epi gothic T-Bird and gave it a good setup and fret dress and it plays and sounds incredible for the money. I said a few months back that the Tokai ones are horrid, but I subsequently found out the neck width on the "classic" and "gothic" Epis are different, and thats why the Tokai felt so wide and cumbersome, more like a P-Bass. The Gothic version has a slimmer neck and nut width, thats the one for playability and fretboard athletics. If you just want a classic one and don't care about the nut width, I'd probably stick my neck out now and say grab the Tokai, as they are in much greater supply than the Orvilles, have proper neck joints (not bolts) and the build quality is pretty good for the 250 quid you can get them for if you shop around. I want to get my hands on the T-bird Pro soon so I can A/B it with the Tokai and Gothic. I'm sorely tempted to replace the bridge on the Epi with a more chunky Badass type thing (with narrow spacing of course), as its quite flimsy, and I want to mod this bass to a through-body string retainer to beef up the sustain and tension slightly. Depends how the band goes I spose, I wouldn't play this thing recreationally, but its a great lookin metal bass for stage and photos