robocorpse

Blimey, its almost identical to mine. Gotta be worth more than 85 quid though, valve output stage, point to point wiring!?!? If this had a "name" on it it would be up in the 300-500 pricerange. Anyway, I have one, its up for trades if anyone has anything interesting to throw at me.

[quote name='razze06' post='1243960' date='May 25 2011, 10:04 AM']Anything else on the back, like a plate or anything?[/quote] Nothing at all. The rear panel has no evidence of any previous plate, and the mains and speaker are on flying cables direct to the chassis, this is original. Its all point to point wiring inside, nice amp!

Damned - Love Song (at 0'19, after the slow prelude) Motorhead - Die You Bastard Japan - Sons Of Pioneers Voivod - Overreaction "Jerry Was A Racecar Driver" should have been at #1 in OPs list...

50 watt bass head, made 1972 in Italy, running 4x EL84. Typical late 60s/early 70s layout of Vol/Treb/Bass per channel, plus power and standby switches on illuminated rockers on RH side of panel. Logo is a centurions head in a shield. Model is "S.BASS.50" I can't find anything on Google. Anyone know what this is? [attachment=80876:PICTA_8632.jpg] [attachment=80875:PICTA_8631.jpg]

I like it, but it definitely needs slimmer headstock, and 2 matching mudbucker covers (even if the bridge one is just hiding a slimmer pickup bobbin). There is no way on earth I would pay more than 500 quid for it though, given the limitations of 90% of Gibson basses.

If the 10 seconds required to temporarily solder/desolder a pickup is too much hassle compared to the 5 minutes to swap the pickup out, maybe you should rethink your approach.

I have a Sansamp in my pedalboard split between DI to the PA, and signal to my Ampeg. I am covered either way, if the Sansamp fails, I can DI from the Ampeg. If the Ampeg fails, I ask for more foldback.

Sounds like either your tweeter volume pot, or the crossover is knackered then. Get it out and check for burn marks.

+1 for Korg DTR. TU2 is still the best floor mounted device.

Dunno, some of the valve Carlsbro heads were fetching good money, I got 650 for a late 60s one a couple of years ago. A clean TC60 is worth 300+ all day long.

[quote name='Bloodaxe' post='1192802' date='Apr 8 2011, 12:45 PM']Wise move. I had a couple of Bulgin-fitted amps, & my biggest concern was that there was bugger all strain relief and NO cable clamp - so the only thing securing the wiring was the terminal screw blocks. Oh, and the fact that the housing was made of Bakelite which would chip/break/shatter if you looked at it in a funny way. Absolutely appalling design.[/quote] Agreed, but it adds at least 100 quid to the value of any 60s/70s Marshall... If you wanna keep it original, take the wooden back panel off, replace it with a home made one with an IEC plug added to it and wire it into circuit, then desolder the Bulgin. That way the amp conforms to most regs, will pass a PAT test, and its able to be put back to original spec when you sell it further down the line.

Ive got some NOS Bulgins somewhere if you want to keep the amp original...

Replace the 4-way with a 2-way if you can, then run your pedals from a flat switching power supply (like the Johnny Shredfreak ones), that will save a load of height and be a bit more resilient. Danger is that you will overbuild and the case won't shut once all the pedals are installed. Tuner and DI on the shelf is sensible, as you don't need split-second access to them. Just use common sense.

Don't do it, black to natural is possibly the hardest refin due to the amount of prep you need to get all the black off, all the sunken sealer, then finding out the hard way WHY the body blank went into the "spray these ones black" pile in the first place... Wait for a blonde 'ray if you are that picky about colour.

+1 on sealed 2x10. Obviously record a straight DI signal as well so you can fart around with it with plugins etc if you need more depth, or split the frequencies to add subtle effects to the top end, then mix to your hearts content. But I guess you know that already

[quote name='harlowbassplayer' post='1192568' date='Apr 8 2011, 08:34 AM']i think i have found a scammer on BassChat i sent an bass and he said it got damaged (neck and tuner) in the post and i asked him to show me the damages and he got pay pal to refund him the money but i'm still waiting for these photo's this was on 24/03/11 plus he still isn't replying to my email's on Hotmail or bass chat and pay pal[/quote] Presumably, you are now out of pocket for the cost of the bass. That makes him a thief, and you need to take action ASAP. I'd appeal to Paypal and ask them to show you the proof of damages, and explain the buyer has avoided all contact since the claim and refuses to provide evidence to you. Whether you do anything *else* on the side is up to you and is inappropriate subject matter for this forum

[quote name='MatthewKeys' post='1192408' date='Apr 7 2011, 11:17 PM']Hey I just have a few questions about the ampeg svt3 pro in general, because there is a few things happening and i'm just curious whether it's supposed to do what it's doing! 1. Takes a while for the sound the come out after turning it on 2. Sounds like a character in a computer game is dying whenever I turn off my amp? If you don't get what I mean I will try to video it soon. 3. Not very loud, I practice it at Gain half way, Master halfway with a passive bass[/quote] 1) Normal. Amp needs to charge power capacitors and settle. 2) Normal. Power caps drain and power rails drop, this makes all kinds of bizarre sounds on different gear. 3) Normal. In a small rehearsal room with a loud band, a 4x10 doesn't have room to breathe. Step 20 feet away from it (if you can) and listen again, now its deafening. Plug it into a 103db 810E and it will take your face off. I practice with a similar setup (SVT3/410), and I have the master on 10 and the gain on about 6. We have a very loud drummer. [quote]I bought a new tweeter for my 410HLF cabinet and it arrived today, I bought it because my old tweeter was having no/little effect on the high end, all it really did was add an extra bit of hiss and I was told by the people at loud technologies that it's most likely I had blown my tweeter.[/quote] Bollocks, take it back and get your money back. If the tweet is blown, why is it hissing? I'd look at your source bass and your EQ, and the sound you are trying to achieve, like for example if you are trying to get a Mark King sound out of a '51Pbass with flats, it aint gonna happen...

Its all in the feel. My current fave bass for the last 2 years is the £200 Epiphone Thunderbird, and I have had over 100 basses pass through my hands, from £50 Satellites to £4k Alembics.

[quote name='wotnwhy' post='1189147' date='Apr 5 2011, 03:39 PM']Username and avatar tattoo'd on your forehead? But then if you ever changed your avatar....[/quote] My avatar *is* my elbow tattoo