LukeFRC

@2x18 has one with the Walkabout he’s selling... 2x18 - what do you use?

There was a guy who lived near where I used to live and he had a Peavey midi bass, each fret was split so that he was getting the midi signals that was then fed into whatever actual synth he wanted. It was awesome.

This is a genuine question... at what point in your synth tone quest do you actually erm you know put the bass down and pick up a synth? Well not pick it up, it would be better on a stand beside you. Unless it's a keytar.

Does that extra resistance add anything to the sound? Like gentle compression of some kind?

Maybe a less contentious question would be - what’s the limits of synth or whatever a helix can do, and what would you need pedal X for? Like if you are a complete SVT junkie you’re unlikely to use a multi fx to do it, or if you are really really particular about some random fuzz tone pedal made by a guy in Japan between 1978-81 then a helix is unlikely to scratch that itch... but for a lot of us if it gets 95% there then it probably is good enough, while most folk won’t doubt that it’s probably not ‘the best’. The most interesting comment in the last few pages of this thread was when someone was talking about how the tracking struggled with fast lines, which is something more solid than abstract “better” or “worse”

Cool I probably have more than I need then but they aren’t all wasted!

The ones I got from blue Arran were the 30mm hex screws - they should be good for the main driver. Even if @stevie said 25mm you’re only a hacksaw cut away from there...

So do we, but I’m not sure about black ones

Aw are the screws on the list wrong then?

Having made a bass body last year I can offer this advice... learn from the best on here. you may end up spending as long making your router templates as the rest of the bass, especially the neck one and the radius. Test test and test. Cheap pine is fine for that as you don’t need to test it to any great depth.... drill out as much as you can you are using the router for the edges. triple check you’ve locked the height of the router.

You can do this with your stomp... play something with no compressor on. Then turn on that block and see if it makes a difference.... then setting compression to best effect is as much of a skill as creating killer bass synth tones but this might be a good starting point http://www.ovnilab.com/articles/setup.shtml the downside of a stomp or most other multi effects as far as I can tell is they don’t have much in the way of metering in terms of visually seeing what the gain levels are and what the compression levels are- Which is one of the reason compression patches aren’t going to be super useful to share as we all hit the strings differently on different basses with different sonic signatures.

Yes. Every time it came up for sale I wanted to buy it, but couldn’t ever decide if the fact it was a single cut would have meant I never gigged it. I’m super happy it’s got a good home with @The Greek if if you are an exclusive bridge pickup man @Chris2112 would bridge pup and piezo be a more interesting combo?

I feel a bit guilty about the fact I ended up buying a freestanding drill press on Friday off ebay... I bought it for the Stairways project I'm doing but it's good to see it might have other uses!

That’s why I added: “Whether any of the bass cabs most of us use are anywhere near “ideal” is a different question.“ I have no doubt that what you’re doing sounds good, and Myself have high-passed bass there or higher... but it doesn’t help anyone if we say “all PA speakers are full range” because it doesn’t help us understand the difference between them and a bass cab, or even between a passive PA speaker or an active one with the DSP helping.

Would it be full range though? The ideal bass cab would go lower than a PA cab, designed to cross over into subs, would tend to be designed for. Whether any of the bass cabs most of us use are anywhere near “ideal” is a different question.

For the HF driver yes, which you can buy via him as Celestion are really supportive. I think he said Blue Arran weren’t budging on price for the Faital driver.

I might be wrong but I think the bolts for the speaker can do the feet too. Not sure about the handle as I think they will look a bit proud of the top. According to the plans isn’t there a support ring for the handle! So you’ve got something (screws or bolts with t nuts going into 30mm of ply.) i don’t think you will need washers, I’ve not seen them used in other builds. Painting a port tube... see if the Matt black paint you’ve got will stick to plastic... you may have to lightly sand the plastic to give it something to key onto. And - I’ve not used t nuts at all but used threaded inserts which similarly need a straight drill ... but managed by hand...

Think so, Stevies sorting that I think. i ordered from blue Arran at the weekend as one of the choices of tuffcab had a two month wait... a large box turned up today! So that’s exciting.

So this sounds like a reason not to buy a stomp...

Blue Arran told me my order would come in two months as the paint would take a while.... I’ve just told the courier it would be better not to come tomorrow as we’re not in!

It might be because I didn't buy everything ... I'll PM you...

balls forgot the paint rollers

not that I'm excited or anything!

I've also just placed my order. Was a fair bit less than yours though, so you must have got a load of the other bits? I've gone with Tuffcab but in a colour that is going to take them a while to get... and I'm going to do a cloth grill... mainly because I can. We should start one build thread for all of us...