LukeFRC

Nicely rounded edges there

When I was doing the dry fit I thought that might be a risk of the super tight fit.

Couldn’t find that

4x 600mm sash clamps for £16? eBay item 133184878318 cheap enough it would be daft for me not to buy them. Think I’ve got everything but the screwfix parts now, and there’s a screwfix 400m away!

Yes it is. Except when the transformer went up in smoke and cost £££ to replace

I've been fairly careful with basses and not lost masses on anything, normally where I can mentally chalk it up as the cost of renting a bass for a few years. Number one expensive gear mistake is the DIY bass I made in my profile picture. I was the second iteration and I ended up spending a fair bit on parts. All in I probably spent double what I would get for it selling it as a bitsa - the worst thing is that it's actually an alright bass - just no where near as nice the other three basses I own. It currently lives in a case ontop of the wardrobe and I've no idea what to do with it! If it helps your reviews on here of the MPulse600 and Walkabout helped me when someone I know let me play his Pulse600 and pair of Walkabouts - I left with a Walkabout, so you probably helped me avoid spending ££ on the MPulse 600. It's not that it's a bad amp, it's just....

Yeah well I know I said I would do the hall project first... dry fit, a wee bit tighter than idea I think but sturdy as anything- well done @stevie - it’s a wonder - and @funkle for this build thread which was helpful in order

Can you believe they were hidden under an old carpet when we moved in? It was only as the inset door mat left a little ridge that I pulled it back and found them shortly after we moved in. Lots of scrubbing, learning how to clean Victorian floor tiles (1860-70 based on the factory details on the back, House is older) and repairing just two small patches. You can see the tools in the background- we are in the middle of one of those mental-when-will-this-finish DIY jobs decorating the hall and landing... it would be simple except the fact that I’ve had to dismantle, restore and rebuild in a more child friendly manner the stair banister... the bass cab build has to be priority two till that is finished

I was thinking it was bad timing!!

So I’m at work but apparently somethings arrived!

Why do you favour the HH over the single H? I tried a single H in that finish in PMT Leeds - it was awesome

What I love about the stomp is that I can set up a basic rig in 30 seconds.... but you can go deep into setting things up.... i have a patch where the first switch is an od, and the second switch goes between the 810 cab or the 410 cab with a compressor on at the front of the chain - the ability to switch three things with one button press is awesome. And I’ve not even got into snapshots yet!

To my ears, the tone to me sounds a lot like a fair bit of good technique and lots of practice For that sound I bet that player could get there on your Yamaha with the tone half way down. For something more like the record (I just looked it up on youtube to listen) @drTStingray's advice would probably get you there. My guess, and this is a guess is that if you cannot get somewhere near that tone with your Yamaha bass and strings... then make sure the action isn't too low, turn the amp gain up and practice playing with a wee bit softer touch to see if that gets you there...

My start wondering about cabs was when I wondered why my Tecamp cab sounded ok quiet but rubbish at gigs - it wasn’t far from that Marshall cab (except no driver mixing) what was crazy is they made the cab in three sizes and I think you or someone pointed out it would probably work ok in the smaller size enclosure

Used my stomp live today at church. Passed with flying colours - did exactly what I bought it to do, nice compression and as I play harder it runs it into a nice SVT overdrive sound ... previously ild just end up peaking the desk and getting nasty sounds in my ears, or just having the old Zoom B3n sounding struggling with the input. Given that it’s a first time setting up two patches it went well!

I was wondering that too

Main major difference is size - the full fat stuff looks great in every way ... till I saw the size of it! The stomp is brill and wee.

So yesterday I had a day off and got to sit with the stomp for the first decent amount of time - man that was five hours that went fast! Got a few patches set up for Sunday church.

Careful with plasticoat on top of anything.... test it first as it adheres by melting the first layer of plastic slightly.... as a sculpture student in slightly different uses we found it horrid stuff and used the better and cheaper Molitow graff paint

The one downside of this is how much I’ve learned from reading advice build threads on here, bassich and Talkbass - it’s often in them that the “try this technique” type comments come out. Example being the tuffcab/leather effect funkle went for was originally found in a fearful cab build thread. My guess is more than a few people will build these themselves without the kit.

@funkle - do you want the rest of us adding our builds on this thread?

Beautiful both alder or is the fretless that “sen ash” you see used?

The basses will have Japanese pups and poly finish

Fender set up Squier brand with a Japanese factory (Gakki?) copying original 50's and 60's guitars. The first batch were large Fender logo with small "Squier series" logo on the headstock. Apparently they mostly came to Europe. These are the expensive ones, mainly based on rarity. Unlike it is suggested in every sales advert for anything JV these were Japanese made using Japanese parts (so metric screws!) and there's nothing wrong with that (possibly some of the first JV Strats used US pickups which is where the legend seems to come from). I had one of these in a '57ri P bass, In my view having tried out a fair few P basses if I wanted to get something similar now from Fender that wasn't a JV I would be looking for a USA AVRI '57 from a few years back or a current custom shop. In that company even £1000 for a JV isn't bad value. In my view, yours may differ! They then switched to large Squier logo on the headstock. Like the first batch they were fairly good vintage copies. Over time there were some changes in hardware which 21frets website lists. After the JV range there was a slightly cheaper Squier SQ range, which were not modelled on vintage basses as much. They are also good instruments. After that the go into single letter before the Seiral A, B, C etc. I have no comment on quality except by the early 90's the "silver series" was issued and was supposed to be better than the average. I've had Silver series Squier and it's not that close to the older JV stiff in terms of feel. At this point you're getting a Japanese made Squier rather than anything more interesting. At the same time as making these vintage reissue Squiers for the export market they also made instruments with JV serials for the domestic Japanese market, these would have had Squier or Fender badges. The problem for us now is that they sold a range at different price points, and not necessarily using the vintage correct stylings that make the export JV stuff desirable. Personally I wouldn't pay a premium for a domestic JV instrument - unless I played it and it was worth the asking price on it's sound as an instrument. That's partly because the justifiable hype around the early export JVs mean that sellers of domestic JV's hope that people don't know the difference and pay more, and partly as if your aim is Japanese bass from the 80's there's a whole ton of interesting and lovely stuff out there for the money. My 2p is: if it's a export Squier JV, either with the first series Fender or Squier badges, try it out. Ignore the price for a bit, compare it to other basses and decide if you want that instrument based on how it plays. People who have them tend to keep hold of them for a long time, and there's a reason for this.