Jump to content
Why become a member? ×
Scammer alert: Offsite email MO. Click here to read more. ×

LukeFRC

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    12,135
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by LukeFRC

  1. - also check this out on another thread - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/307872-funkee-video-playing-basses-worth-from-100-to-10000/
  2. It's a thing. There's no real link to either your musicianship, or how far musically the stuff you have now can take you. A new bass will not make you a better player, it will not teach you scales, it will not understand melody better, it will not groove better, it will not make your band better, it will not make the drummer play in time, it will not make you more attractive. It's not really holding you back. Unless you let it. And if you form a band, normally you're playing crappy wee venues, with poor acoutics, and bad sound people, and a guitarist who can't turn down ever - and in the mix the difference between what you have now, and a squier or spector or a fedora are negligible, in that mix. And the drummer still can't play in time. Form a band, play some gigs, put on your own gigs, make your own wee scene, DIY recordings, fun an attitude, practice, practice some more, and some more, play more gigs, suddenly you've got a bit of a buzz going locally about what you're doing. And it's good, and it's fun, and it's enjoyable and you're playing better and making more good music... and well that old Cort is still going strong. Cos apart from internet forums I don't think music is really that much about the instrument.
  3. [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498454051' post='3324654'] Very good progress. You are clambering up that learning curve at an impressive rate [/quote] thanks! It's great fun and if I go slow enough I won't cock it up! im at a split now - it's either roundover and sanding time - or bridge/pickups and other cavities Is there a preferred order?
  4. firstly - lovely. and secondly... not worth comparing it to a JV squier. Very different, one was the best vintage style bass made at the time, one the best* more modern style jazz bass made at the time. I've had a JV - would want a 400 series! Super cool, and the right colour too! *800 series excepted
  5. By the way - I've realised that this looks like step by step pictures. just to say [b][i]I don't actually know what I'm doing! [/i][/b]get your tips and guides from people correcting me on this post!
  6. which means that I can hold the body up using the neck alone held in by the pocket*! [size=1]*for short periods of time with my hand under the body to catch it if it did drop.... [/size]
  7. oh and don't worry - If I've planned it right those screws are into the pickup cavities. ... anyway. Ta dah! the black stuff isn't burning, it's the finish of the neck rubbing off.... I would rather have it too tight than too loose...
  8. So the body was cut with the join in the middle of the body as the centre line. A wee laser guide helped me line everything up with that line... so hopefully the neck will go on straight. Depth was worked out as (neck height on E + fret height) - bridge saddle height at lowest setting = 13mm used hipshot spec sheet - the bonus of using a decent bridge rather than an a eBay cheapy. So after I've cut the pocket I'll test the neck fit.... it's tight!
  9. I think they call this hogging out. I'm going to borrow a better drill for the neck bolts cos I'm not impressed with how stable this SDS chuck is - to be fair it's not really designed for this. I borrowed this drill holding press contraption. There is a guide trimmed to the shape of the body that means I can position it accurately for routing other bits out. My cut template is the thing nail onto the top of it.
  10. and back to the old jig... and lots and lots of practice cuts.... I kinda get now what AndyJr1515 means when you sit and think about things and how to make it work.... I've not done this in the most sensible way.... but if the end result works then hey ho! After routing 6 test pieces without making a bigger guide I also decided I didn't need a bigger guide! (which was a good thing cos the bit of wood I was going to cut a bigger guide with I cut wrong in order to make a guide to get the pocket line up straight...
  11. So I went to make a template for when my router bit turned up... and actually couldn't get the radii on the corner as close as my offset template... so canceled the router bit order...
  12. have a back up plan where you don't use the wireless and just plug straight in.
  13. beautiful
  14. [quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1498309893' post='3323789'] so how to make the bottom bit? take the template off... sand a bit. Put it back on, rout, test, and so on... Ahaha! that's pretty good [/quote] it's pretty good... but the radius isn't quite perfect is it? when the hell did I become such a perfectionist? I guess I may also have similar radius problems with the pickup routs. So router bit ordered off eBay. For future reference best search term to use is "template router bit" and look for UK companies - I got mine for £4 off a company in Halifax
  15. Very tight (probably too tight) fit. I later used a chisel to chip out (roughly) the space for the truss wheel thing. I think that given I've got a template that works with my current tools I may use it* to cut the pocket. *obviously I'll be copying it onto a different bit of wood that can be accurately positioned.
  16. And the neck fits!
  17. so how to make the bottom bit? take the template off... sand a bit. Put it back on, rout, test, and so on... Ahaha! that's pretty good
  18. Then I read Jabba's post and decided to to it the proper way. Except Mrs FRC had the laptop so I couldn't order any router bits. So I went into the outhouse again.... I was so close so lets try again. Using the previous template as a starting place i got a bit of MDF nailed on straight edges for the bottom bearing bit i've got. This time I used the radius of the router bit for the corners and went across square at the end. Once I had routed the straight edges of the template out of the MDF it gets nailed onto a bit of scrap pine skirting boards and tested. As this was me just mucking about before I bought a new router bit I used a bit of scrap I had already used.... You can see my first attempt at a template on the same bit of MDF
  19. [quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1498288040' post='3323616'] Just following on rom what others have said, I really think you would find this easier with a template cutter router bit. They aren't that expensive - I think I paid about £6 for one off eBay of a certain depth that I wanted specifically for cutting neck pockets. They really make life easier and remove a lot of the trial and error. These are the steps I would typically do to make a neck pocket template (just remember that mdf produces a fine dust and if you use a router to cut it it goes everywhere so make sure you use the right mask, dust extraction etc.) [/quote] Jabba that is amazing - thanks for sharing. That above is how it should be done. My first attempt at a offset-jig was useless - all wavy lines and space all around it. This is attempt two: The sides were just about good enough, the bottom wasn't perfectly parallel but it would have worked. The heel was a bit of a mess though - I tried to cut use the drill to put the corners on and then fret saw with curve between them. Needless to say it didn't work. Mind you I've seen worse in the shops, and when the truss wheel thing goes on it won't be as noticeable.
  20. [quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1498143363' post='3322786'] A useful tip for neck pockets is take a lot of the material out with a forstner drill bit preferable in a pillar drill first. That way you have less chance of the router 'digging in' or 'kicking' messing up the neck pocket. For future reference, I normally cut the neck pocket first before the body profile as it gives you a bigger surface to support the template and router, and its easier to line everything up with nice square edges. [/quote] i think someone advised to do the pocket first. And that was my plan... and then I got all excited about starting and went cut the body out! Oh well. I've done a fair few hours and it's not gone irretrievably wrong yet. I have invested in some cheaper forstner drill bits, and borrowed a drill press i can clamp my drill into... I spent a few hours this evening playing with templates for the neck pocket. I've got a version planned of a way that should work that I saw on the net... slightly modified to give me the offset. I also did one by eye and got it pretty close- as in I could use it and it would be fine. Tight on the sides, but maybe 1mm gap at the end as the rounded bit wasn't quite right. I took the truss wheel off as that can be an extra cut. could do that with a chisel if needed.
  21. It will also let the player bend the e string further down the dusty end - if that was something you wanted to do
  22. Might need to!
  23. [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498113665' post='3322539'] It's all looking good, Luke ...and worth getting that neck pocket template absolutely right. You do right to abandon the ones that aren't perfect [/quote] it's mainly as the router brushing needs the template to be offset by 2.5mm - easy for body shape and pickup and control as I know the size of them and can then make them bigger - neck not as easy... top bearing router bit would be the answer but loath to buy one.
  24. First attempt at a neck pocket template... useless. Need to refine technique.
  25. my dreams may end up being a bit more expensive. bournes pots though - he could have saved a bit there!
×
×
  • Create New...