LukeFRC

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1389201727' post='2331310'] With respect, and just sayin'... From post 2... Replies have been mostly with this in mind, methinks..? [/quote] Yeah I think there have been some brilliant replies and some really good ideas.

Not meaning to be a kill joy, and I'm not attempting to offend anyone... the OP came in and asked the best way to do something with an idea of how to do it. a lot of us came back and pointed out that it possibly wasn't the best way and suggested other ways to get the same effect- most going the same way that Dave_the_bass just suggested... the OP wants to try the mic option.... maybe it's one of those things that you think of and then just have to try/do and the OP should just go for it. If he's not comfortable with how it works he can always come back and read some other suggestions of how to easily do what he's wanting to do....

It's a combination someone with an image/band that fits the bass, and/or a desirable brand or item them having money, them needing the bass- either as an upgrade to what they have or a cheaper second bass, and of course, the biggest of them all - the right price. you need all four...

http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/warwick-buzzard-bass4-string-bolt-on/1044033336 might be of interest to someone here....

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1388934776' post='2327768'] In any case he needs to take it back and make it Fender's problem. He should demand a good replacement bass. When making a bass Fender have a massive stack of necks and an equally massive supply of bodies. All should be virtually identical. I can't believe they can't find a body and neck that work well together without bodging it. If one neck doesn't work, they should change the neck. It's shockingly bad they should let a bass go out needing a shim from day 1. [/quote] first - chill out second - It's a 30 year old bass - Third - I'm wasn't getting involved in a(nother) "should basses need a shim" thread - just trying to give advice to the OP. We have no idea if the bass shipped with a shim or it was added some time in the last 3 decades. Personally I've added shims to basses and not noticed any difference in sound or feel (apart from them being set up better) so I don't care if shims are used or not. The clue to why they are made with shims is in your own post... a massive stack of necks, and a massive stack of bodies - it's mass produced in large numbers- personally I'm ok with a manufacturing tolerance the thickness of a rail ticket - and if I wasn't - why on earth are you buying a mass produced instrument anyway. To the OP hope you get it sorted

[quote name='cameltoe' timestamp='1388836518' post='2326568'] No the relief is set perfectly now, how I would consider it to be anyway. [b]What I was considering is if removal of the shim and the resulting change in neck pitch would drop action at the 8th relative to the 15th.[/b] Above post states it will raise action especially at the higher frets- This is what I was wondering- if the higher frets are affected more by removing the shim, then this will allow a lower action at 8th due to increased clearance higher up. [/quote] yes it would [quote name='cameltoe' timestamp='1388929886' post='2327698'] Right guys, I've taken your advice and tried to straighten out the truss rod a bit more. It looked fairly good before, but I thought I would see if I could get the neck a touch straighter. The truss was very tight to move, 1/4 turn then left a few hours to settle made no discernible difference to relief, so I tried again with 1/2 turn. Left overnight, no difference. Both times it appeared to have moved ok on retuning, but when settled had returned to as it was before. Tried one more 1/2 turn, left to settle, same result. Removed the neck fully last night, released the truss nut completely and greased, re-tightened truss again and it snapped. Seriously. It's sheared off right under the truss nut. Holy f*** If someone has any helpful advice right now, or just an optomistic comment I'd love to hear it as I'm feeling this could be damage beyond repair and I've just destroyed my new bass. I can't believe it. [/quote] ouch. was it the nut or the rod that's gone. Apparently the nut is replaceable whereas the rod is harder.... remember it's japanese so therefore metric screw threads.....

who would have thought....

how have you got the current preamp set up? Can you set it into passive mode, and how does it sound there? ... and are the notes too bassy and get lost or what? Does a similar thing happen if you play high up the neck on the EA string? Also are you going through the FOH? is the same effect heard there by people out front or just you? Put this way - if changing the preamp at the amp end doesn't make a difference then I doubt changing the warwick preamp will make a massive difference to the problem you're having.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1388782988' post='2326120'] No, that's drummers, but it's an easy mistake to make. [/quote] especially with some of the drummers i've played with!

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1388777630' post='2326019'] Why would you even want to know the time when you are playing? [/quote] aren't bass players supposed to keep time?

[quote name='Grassie' timestamp='1388768271' post='2325875'] A Fender Herbie Flowers jazz bass would be cool. [/quote] ahem http://www.bassgear.co.uk/product/4-string-bass-guitars-po/herbie-flowers-jazz-replica-2/ I would like a bass that sounds like the one the really cool guy who's name I forget played on graceland.

that really is a great build there!

my bitsa jazz bass and then spend the rest on a precision

yep - that took my by surprise when my newest bass came from germany

[quote name='TraceAmp' timestamp='1388685332' post='2324840'] My english isn't so good... [/quote] wife is a german teacher so between her and google translate I'll work it out!

if only I could get a status bass like mark king uses...... oh wait a mo!

there's a difference between the prices they are advertised for and the price they sell for. For a standard JV p bass in that condition I think £500 would be optimistic. [quote name='spacey' timestamp='1388497296' post='2322648'] They are a lot appearing, they were a £129 brand new in the box bass sold at most music shops. They got put in cupboards and forgotton about . They were reasonably well made on a par with the latest Squire deluxe range's. Someone decided they were ultra rare and the price rocketed, this has lead to people digging out the cheap beginers bass from the loft or back cupbaord and they are hitting the markets by the thousands and mugs are grabbing them thinking they are really worth £1000+ They are not and as they are hitting the market place in bulk now the word is out the price will fall back. They were the beginers Christmas bass of the day and they certainly sold in quite large numbers at the time, As folk who long gave up playing dig them out of lofts and closets, every one that hits the market knocks the price down as people work out that they are not as "rare" as first thought. I have had the odd one here and there, they play OK, but I would never dream of paying more than a nice USA Fender precision price for them. Like all bubbles, it will burst. [/quote] The first ones are ultra rare and exceedingly good instruments. It's interest in the rare ones that pushes the prices of them all up. I'm not sure how many you've played but IMO would rate the quality of the early ones, esp the neck, up with USA standard fender today. The American vintage reissues are nicer (esp the pre 2013 ones, I like them) but the JV is closer to the original in both feel and sound. Will the bubble burst? Well not the the Fender logoed ones, and when the roundly considered as "a bit crap" early 80's Fenders seem to go for £1500, The Fullertons for £2000+ and late 70's ones for more... £600 on a JV squier isn't that bad. Are they all good? nah probably not- SQ range are probably better value for money, or E series.... the japanese necks are brilliant though.

[quote name='TraceAmp' timestamp='1388678655' post='2324718'] I collected all that [url="http://www.stoffer-net.de/reviews.html"]preamps[/url]: There are some good preamp for less money. Look at ebay... [/quote] right onto translating your reviews!

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1388620119' post='2324219'] You mean every thread should end on post #84? Fascinating. [/quote] or Beedster is saying I should have the last word? I dunno, my other half wouldn't agree with that!

tried emailing warwick direct? they are pretty good with the replies

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1388193304' post='2319444'] You know you'll only get a limited sound from flatwound strings, so why not just put them on a cheap passive bass instead of a vintage P? Here's my thing: I've got a Korean Squier Jazz that I put LaBella 760FLs on, and replaced the tone pot with a push/pull that will put it in series (and replaced the tone cap with a .1uF so it'll do reggae), but yeah, with the tone wide open it's got a genuinely perfect soul tone, can't imagine anything ever sounding any better, and so I wonder: Why does anybody spend so much to get that sound? [/quote] what makes you think that anyone took ever their flats off the vintage P in the first place? isn't that where the funk it? Seriously- you've got a bass with flats you like the sound of - great, I'm pleased for you. But unless you're willing to sell that bass so other people can appreciated it then why knock what anyone else sticks their flats on? We're all after a decent tone - how we go about it, and how much it costs to get there, doesn't matter. As another thought..... There's a trend on Basschat at the moment where people knock anyone or any idea that costs a bit more than the cheapest option - it's doing my head in - lets just play the damn things, get excited about stuff and stop getting so hung up about money. Some cheap Squiers are great. So are some Ritters - get over it. Oh and I don't care what you think of the paint job on barefaced cabs and don't have any strong opinions either way on the beatles. Yeah it will probably be good for metal too....

[quote name='funkle' timestamp='1388094641' post='2318550'] Anyone have any thoughts at how the Simplexx 1x12" with the Kappalite 3012LF would compare to one of the fearless f112 (also based around 3012LF) designs sonically? The greenboy design is 3 way (crossed over to a Faital M5N12-80 and either the Eminence APT80 tweeter or Faital HF102 compression driver), and I assume would require a more complicated crossover due to that. The f112 allows for tilt back monitoring as the cab is shaped a bit like a monitor. I assume it gives up a little low end because I guess the internal volume is reduced due to its shape. Is a 2 way design intrinsically better than a 3 way design? [/quote] I've been asking this question too... but with the 12/6/1, but the F112 has same tweeter (the APT80) as simplexx... I know which one would be cheaper to build!