LukeFRC

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1345565254' post='1778938'] I've said it before, but I think there's a characteristic of the B&O modules these amps use, either tonal or dynamic, that doesn't sit right with me. I can't quite put my finger on it. [/quote] I was about to reply and agree when I thought of something... that Bigredx brought up... but are they all the same... and also do they all map the power out in the same way? We can tell from the whole TC RH450 not being 450 that there is some pretty clever stuff going on in the design of these amps, so I'm thinking not all of them will approach it the same way.... but as BigRedx says- why are we presuming they all use the same unit (though they may be) I never liked the sound of Markbass, no idea why but I put that down to the sound of the amp rather than the power unit. The TC electronics stuff I tried just had a load of compression going on it felt like... again is that the amp? My puma 1000.... I like. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1345569880' post='1778989'] Surely not all class D amps use the same power module? IMO class D amps are just like any other - some are right for you some aren't. I've owned three, two of them were pretty underwhelming (Ashdown Superfly and a 500+500W power amp). However the one I have now -Tech Soundsystems Black Cat) is the best sounding bass amp I've ever owned. It brings out the individuality of each bass while adding something to make them all sound great. And just to prove that we are all different, there's a GK amp at the rehearsal rooms I sometimes use and it's the only amp there that I have been unable to get a sound I liked out of. [/quote] Maybe tecamp use a different modual - or know how to use it well. I find similar with my Puma 1000. Great wee compressor on it too.

legend has it that the EU wanted to move towards a standard design for plugs. They did a study and it turned out that our UK ones were the safest by quite a long way. The french were not pleased and the idea of a play standard based on the safest option got dropped.... might be just legend!

ukrainian and turkish built basses!

http://www.grandmasterguitars.com/

well you're never going to buy a steinburger

[quote name='krysh' timestamp='1339180630' post='1685080'] so here is my couple: 2004 seibass jazz 5 (thanks dave) and my just completed frankenjazz: shuker geddy lee neck (thanks andy) early 80ies ESP custom ash body and nordstrand js4se (thanks other dave): [/quote] If I had to design my dream bass it would be like that one (maybe without your web addy!) red body, maple neck and nordies!

[quote name='debwilliams' timestamp='1345586081' post='1779257'] I'll do both of those - I'm hoping that it will work just as well with Gentleman Jack / JD or Jamesons? Many thanks [/quote] well you'll have to use an extra 'e' to describe your technique on here.... but it could work

[quote name='ead' timestamp='1345584622' post='1779229'] Does anybody have any experience with this Overwater Aspiration - it even has J/J p/ups. If they are anything like the rest of the range they will be excellent value at £230. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Overwater-Aspiration-Standard-4-String-Bass-Guitar-in-Metallic-Red-/150875736812?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2320e50aec"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2320e50aec[/url] [/quote] looked at it in shop. rolled fingerboard which the more expensive tangle woods didn't have. Didn't play it though- did look good

practice. then you won't find it as difficult and will relax. That or glenfidich

horses, courses, and what you're used too...

I saw that as well.

I still think calling something with a maple neck a thumb is daft mind!

Big up red dog in edinburgh who have a load in. I just tried one of the Korean active corvette 5 strings. Skeptical on Korean warwicks but surprisingly good! Very very good quality of construction and finish, sounded good. Preamp wasn't as nice as the one in my older wick but yeah, surprisingly good.

Farida... and it's a PJ but the overwater/tanglewood thing is worth a look too

nothing, it was the 6 pints each you all had drunk beforehand

heavy and long- a pain to pick up an strap on.... but once on perfect balance.

[quote name='Pinball' timestamp='1345385957' post='1776924'] I played a couple recently in-store. One was a California jazzer and the other was similar with humbuckers. They felt great, necks were fast and the sound was punchier than I was expecting. I was really there trying out another bass that was half the price but trying the Sandburgs just highlighted the gulf in quality. I don't have much experience playing basses over the £1000 so can't compare it with others but they felt good to me. [/quote] (not directed to you btw, just a general thought) I think it's a good idea to play as many basses as you can, in as many price ranges- and with an open mind. Judging them on feel/playability and tone. What I realised is that some basses are hideously overpriced, and some very very much underpriced for what you are getting. (the cravat being yes maybe the bad ones were really actually good and just badly set up and I was too daft to notice that and don't worry I won't say anything bad about your particular favourite bass.... ) So something like the Tanglewood/overwater are far higher quality and tone than the price suggests. And Stingrays I would say are bang on quality/price wise... It's only when you play things with $8000 list prices that you start to see the top end of what could be possible with a bass... and that helps work out if your £1000 is worth spending.

look in the sale forum, find something, then ask questions about a specific amp. £500 will get you something nice

[quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1345328926' post='1776420'] emagnetsuk. Pcb works for the flat work. Fibre board is cheaper in large bits but that's a lot of pickups. You can wind them using a hand drill (the kind you wind by hand). You have to keep the wire nice and tight but you can also do this by simply holding the wire between pieces of felt. Thin wire (.42swg) and 20x5mmx20mm alnico rods will do it for a humbucker. Bar magnets are good, but they need steel 'rails'. The handdrill gets clamped to the bench with a piece of .5" mdf with counter sunk carraige bolt that gets chucked into the drill. The wire bobbin stands on the floor directly beneath the winder. Make sure you sand any burrs of plastic of the bobbin. Fix flatwork to the mdf 'winding plate' with double sided tape (vinyl floor tape b&q). Wind the drill with one hand and tension/guide the wire with the other hand. Takes about 20 minutes. You need a very steady hand to do this and it's pretty simple to set up a tensioner with guide posts. Tape down the wires and lightly sand off the coating to test the output and seal again with laquer. You can then pot them in wax i you can bung up all the holes in the cases. This is easy with wooden cases that have only 2 holes or so. Plastic cases with exposed pole piece designs are always going to be tricky. You can dip string in hot wax and wrap that around as a lively alternative. Potting basically stops the pickup turning into a microphone. [/quote] useful.... and the chance of making something sounding good?

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1345314567' post='1776248'] What are the new Trace heads like? As clean as the originals? [/quote] In my head trace is one of the most coloured tones around!