LukeFRC

I’m wondering more about seeing the 12 year old overwater and all the stories that must have! (The p looks great too btw)

Meterora bass?

So I forgot how much pedal building added up if you forget a thing... After the of course I go to start of the valve preamp build and start with the diodes ... except I have one less diode than I need. Somehow the order for one diode and one other IC for something else ended up on me spending £30 on other stuff... in anticipation for the next couple of builds... I was about to order some PCBs and stopped myself, just done the sums on how much everything will cost and we are over £100 for two pedals. One of them is quite complex and bucket brigade chips cost a fair bit but still pause for now. Also any negative experiences of ordering from Tayda?

I need to get some photos of mine... but it's the grey/silver/pewter one on the website

oh is it that one with the confederate flag on it?

verified? thats the hard bit done!

don't know why I'm asking ... but your photo? and do you have the other side?

and a lot of jumpers!

What does it look like inside? Crazy?

Fx loop output with 100% through - send to amp - main output to desk

I think the first step in a successful project is laying out what it is you want to achieve. Or what are you achieving that you couldn't do better another way? Are the effects pluggins you would be using any better/worse than a Zoom MS-60b or similar cheap MFX? What could you do that no-one else is doing, or doing well? Or is it an exercise in using your programming chops for something cool? I dunno, I'm skeptical of such an open brief. One of the cool projects/products I saw was the little Robbie pilot - essentially a pre programmed midi controller for HX stomp - but also really clever in that it made a complex bit of functionality really simple and allowed you to do things simply that previously were difficult.

What are you aiming to do? clone it in a smaller case?

a uk made pedal for bass players - you would probably be quicker tracing it yourself!

there's a few kits on Musikding https://www.musikding.de/Death-by-Flaming-Ring-kit What I've found is that if you find a PCB on there and go to whoever's project it is (ProjectPCB, etc you can find out what it's based on...)

I'm sure that I've seen similar in something from the Middle Ages

Or just building one as a sub without the horn …

How do you know you are happy of the pre/PU setup? Have you put that in another body/bass?

I made my own…

I have one. I have the ply all cut up ready to make another (sub version. With no horn) … but I feel no need to

so... my findings messing about and changing a few values... It works and sounds really nice kinda... but only turned up all the way... and even then there's a bit of something not quite right... if I correct needing to turn it up all the way issue I seem to get the mild overdriving sound again. It's not the Opamp in the signal chain which it was suggested it was - I think it might be the bloody LRD not being quite to spec. Learnings - If I'm doing something a bit less "structured kit" I probably should breadboard it to layout this stuff before building - esp with something as variable as photocells. this PCB wasn't designed for lots of mods! The beauty of a kit is someone has done the testing and development for you it sounded really nice - I was on the right lines of what I wanted... But I don't know if I'm going to get it sounding nice enough to make it worth sticking in an enclosure - I might chalk this one off as a fun experiment and a lost cause

oh my - you are good!

I found this with cab sims and IRs playing live too, on play back they sounded fine … try this as an eq block and see how you like that https://drtone.theblackcreekband.com/eq-setting/8x10/

My learnings also RE: PCBs - kiCad I found simple much much easier than vero or playing with chemicals and etching yourself planning the enclosure and board at the same time is easier - my board fits in the enclosure- but only just! mistakes need to be caught - I made three on my board. One was fiddly extra wire 3mm long and the other two kinda cancelled each other out. the 0.3mm holes that the pcb manufacturer uses are a bit small for diy pedal building - they work fine but removing a component the capillary action keeping the solder in the hole was stronger than my solder sucker anyone want the board with a couple of a mistakes on it? will come with the correct LDR!

It works!! use the suggested LDR and it works. As a mod I added a switch that bypasses the 2k7 resistor … mainly as I saw that that’s what the comp/limit switch on a real LA-2A does - it changes the sound but I need to experiment a bit to find out what what it’s really doing… Comparing it to the LA2A sim in my HX stomp it’s the same ballpark I’m possibly going to need to do some modding as all the comp setting is at one end of the comp pot and it would be nice if it could be a bit more extream at the end of the pot if that makes sense…