BOD2

What Do I Need ? Some space. An empty kitchen table is good enough but put some towels down to protect the guitar finish. You'll need a medium sized cross-point screwdriver to remove the neck bolts, a capo (or elastic bands), and something to make the shim from.

Why Would I do This ? You would do it if you need to lower the action but find that the bridge saddles are already at their lowest position and will not go down any further. How Could This Happen ? There are several possible reasons - including manufacturing variations - but the most common one is that the bridge has been replaced (e.g. with a BadAss bridge) with one that has a thicker bass plate so that the bridge itself is actually sitting higher than it was meant to. For example -

[u][b]Disclaimer [/b][/u]this guide is provided "as is". It's your guitar, so any work you underatake on it must be your responsibility. Make sure you understand the procedure fully before you start any work and please don't practice this type of thing on the pre-CBS Precision Bass you found in the attic. The following describes how to shim the neck of a Fender-style bass (e.g. a Precision or Jazz) or any bass with a traditional bolt-on neck construction.

I think 2x18 might be right. It looks like that capacitor might be pushed onto the pot casing when you screw the pickguard down. You could verify this by sliding a piece of paper under the capacitor so that the wire that is not soldered onto the pot casing cannot touch the casing. As far as I can see the wiring looks ok - the "official Fender" wiring is slightly different on the tone pot but I don't think it would actually make any difference to the sound.

Will this article help ? [url="http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/pickupwiring.htm"]http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/pickupwiring.htm[/url]

Not sure of any of these would fit the bill [url="http://www.axesrus.com/AxePlatesBass.html"]http://www.axesrus.com/AxePlatesBass.html[/url] [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Pickguards/Fender_Basses"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Pickguards/Fender_Basses[/url]

Ashdown Superfly ? This one .... [url="http://www.ashdownmusic.com/bass/detail.asp?ID=156"]http://www.ashdownmusic.com/bass/detail.asp?ID=156[/url] That has two separate power amp outputs - 2 x 250 Watts into 4 ohms. That means you can attach a 4 ohm cabinet to each of the speaker and get 250 Watts. Since it's a solid state amp, you can safely attach a higher impedance cabinet (e.g. 8 ohms) but you'll get a bit less power. Don't attach anythingh less than 4 ohms, though. The guitar amp is a valve amp so you MUST attach the correct impedance cabinets to the speaker outputs or you risk damaging the output transformer (expensive !).

Check out this artickle for information about wiring speakers [url="http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:amps:impedance_and_wattage"]http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:amps:impedance_and_wattage[/url] See if you can identify which method (parallel or series) you used to wire your speakers. Also, this head that runs at 10 ohms... that's an unusual value. What make/model is the head ? (this will help answer your original question)

Not old or Japanese, I'm afraid, but what I'd like to know is, given Rickenbacker's litigious practices, how do Indie Guitars get away with this ? [url="http://sound-affects-online.co.uk/shop/article_153/Indie-IRK-Bass---Black.html"]http://sound-affects-online.co.uk/shop/art...ss---Black.html[/url] [url="http://www.jsdguitarshack.com/indie_guitars/indie_irk_bass.html"]http://www.jsdguitarshack.com/indie_guitar...e_irk_bass.html[/url]

[quote name='tony two-tone' post='477063' date='May 1 2009, 02:42 PM']Ive been looking at the FCB1010, and it looks alright. affordable and stuff. im just not too sure on learning all this stuff about MIDI....ive noticed the Behringer manuals aren't great for explaining stuff, and with absolutely no prior knowledge of MIDI it will probably get quite messy... any things i should learn/look out for before getting it? I also recently learned you can download presents from their tone library, but again...its all MIDI. [/quote] If you're using the FCB1010 with a V-amp then you can "reset" the FCB1010 to a mode whereby it is automatically configured to control the V-amp - no MIDI program knowledge is required. If you want to download presets for the V-amp you need to connect it to your computer. This is easy enough to do but you'll need a computer-to-MIDI cable (either USB-to-MIDI or JoystickPort-to-MIDI). There's software for the V-amp available to download free and this gives you a better user interface to program the V-amp and to load presets. It all works very well but you do need the right cable.

A "center detent" e.g. [url="http://www.soundmeout.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_64_70&products_id=541"]http://www.soundmeout.com/store/index.php?...products_id=541[/url]

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='488895' date='May 15 2009, 02:01 PM']Their site says it uses relays and requires quite a lot of current. Not so passive, maybe.[/quote] A relay is just a "powered switch". Relays can be setup to switch over as many contacts as you want with one press of a footswitch. This can be relay useful (hah - did you see what I did there ? ) The current is used purely to operate the relay and is completely isolated from the signal side of the pedal. A relay-operated switch is more likely to be genuine "true bypass" than a normal mechanical switch. The power is also used to operated LEDs so that you always tell which way the switch is currently set - this is very useful on a dark stage when you can't remember which way the unit i switched.

An inverter converts DC electricity (from a battery) into AC electricity (what you get from the mains). Unfortunately a car battery would not be capable of proving enough power for long enough to power a band. If the marquee is only 6 metres away then you could run an extension cable. Better still run two extensions cables from different sockets in the house. Make sure the extension cable is thick "10 amp" cable and not some weedy little thing. Also ensure that the cable is 3-core (live, neutral, earth) and not a 2-core cable with no earth (you can take the top of the plug to check this). If it's on a cable reel then roll out all of the cable - don't leave it on the reel as a rolled up cable can heat up. Put something over the cable where it crosses from the house to the marquee so that no one can trip over it - either put boards over, tape it down, or place obstructions to discourage people from crossing over the cable (preferrably ALL of these things !).

Not .... [i]THE[/i][u][/u] Stig ??? But welcome anyway !

The clue is in the name. Think French.... "sans" = "without" therefore the name literally means "without amp" (oh weren't they clever !). I think it's been described well enough above.

It should fit the neck socket ok - these things seem to be standard across the Fender range. Fitting a 3-bolt neck to a 4-bolt pocket will require you to drill 2 additional holes in the neck, as the 3rd hold for the neck will be in between where the 2 new ones need to be. The best way to do this would be to install the neck loosely using the 2 screws that fit, then push a bradawl through the other 2 holes in the body to mark on the neck where the new holes need to be. Remove the neck then check that these holes are not going to cause any problems with their location. If everything is ok drill pilot holes (being very careful with the drill depth). A bench press drill would be best to ensure a perfectly straight hole. Use the existing holes as a guide to what diameter they should be and how deep they should be.

[quote name='solo4652' post='482928' date='May 8 2009, 01:53 PM']All sorted now. Just need to work out how to get superglue off the kitchen worktop...[/quote] Could be worse.... you might have had to work out how to get your fingers off the kitchen worktop !

For Trace Elliot spares, see this earlier thread [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=37814&st=0&p=379304&#entry379304"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...mp;#entry379304[/url]

Have a look at the fan blades when the fan is static. Are they covered in dust ? Sometimes that will slow down the fan making it less efficient. A good blast with an aerosol "air duster" through the fan will usually get the dust out. Also, is the exit point of the fan always clear (i.e. not too near a wall, or covered by anything) ? The hot air needs to get out as cleanly as possible to keep things cool.

Glad you added that last line ..... Somewhere that's not damp and where the temperature doesn't vary too much should be ok. Maybe wrap it in a blanket or something to avoid it getting any knocks.

Terry Wilson - Crawler [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcDyNyEijDc&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcDyNyEijDc...feature=related[/url] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALxZwhyhKIw&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALxZwhyhKIw...feature=related[/url] I just bought that CD (used to have ity years ago) and I'm loving his bass sound and tasteful playing.

I can vaguely remember seeing one. I think they were branded as "Antoria" in the UK - I don't recall them being Ibanez in the UK, but they'd all come from the same factory and be badged according to whoever imported them. There was never a Fender equivalent. This was a "new" instrument that Ibanez/Antoria developed themselves. I can't imagine that they made very many. I think the special case that you needed for it cost about half as much as the guitar itself ! There was a short craze for double neck guitars in the mid/late seventies so they probably saw a market opportunity. But then punk came along and a double neck guitar was the epitome of everything punk was against - so they quickly disappeared.

Well this is how it's supposed to done .... [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swfQi7GtK78&feature=player_embedded"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swfQi7GtK78...player_embedded[/url]

[quote name='Musky' post='479495' date='May 4 2009, 10:36 PM']I've still got a stack of mags from that era as well. I've got to say that the prices you're quoting do seem quite hot though. I bought my Precision new in 1981 for £250 - that's about £737 now. Admittedly I was fortunate enough to live near one of the cheapest dealers in the country, but that holds up pretty well today's prices.[/quote] Those are the RRPs I've quoted from a big price list at the back of the magazines. You would probably be able to negotiate a discount in some of the bigger stores. With USA gear a lot would depend on the strength of the pound against the dollar. I have no idea if that changed, or by how much, between 1977 and 1981 but it might have made a difference. Fender had also taken a severe bashing in that period for poor quality so that might also have affected their prices.

4 piece with a full PA and lighting - we used to take about 2 hours. But that was only because I had to connect every cable myself while the others stood around chatting, getting in the way, and feigning ignorance. It could probably have been cut down to 1 hour if everyone pulled their weight and worked as a team. Working as a team is important. If we'd got our act together and I'd been "allowed" to setup while the other 3 unloaded the gear (instead of me unloading it too) then that would have made a big difference too - it's much quicker to setup when you don't have to keep walking around people. 4 hours seems ridiculous and is the sort of thing the band could easily get slagged off for !