BOD2

Initially I thought this wasn't possible....then.....thinks..... the socket on a Jazz is mounted on a metal plate. This metal plate would connect to the ground of the jack socket by virtue of the socket being bolted onto the plate. The plate then carries the ground signal and the pots are also bolted to the plate which would ground them too. So it would all work find as long as everything is bolted tightly. The extra (missing) wire to the ground would help if any of the pots or the jack worked loose, but otherwise it will all work ok.

Nope - sorry can't be done. 4 x 8 ohm in series = 32 ohm (pretty useless) 4 x 8 ohm in parallel = 2 ohm (not advisable) 4 x 8 ohm in series/parallel = 8 ohm (which is what you already have) There aren't any other options that use all 4 drivers.

Thanks for posting that. So do you have it fixed now ?

Can you borrow a different bass (with different pickups) just to see if it is the Nordstrand pickups ? I wouldn't spend any money on power filtering or anything like that until I'd eliminated the pickups. Besides which, the power in the UK is actually not bad in that respect (i.e. not too noisy).

If it was working ok beforehand and you're only having these problems afterwards then it's most likely broken pot that is causing the problem. You might be able to get a wiring daigram here [url="http://www.ibanez.com/support/wiringdiagrams.aspx"]http://www.ibanez.com/support/wiringdiagrams.aspx[/url] That should confirm pot values etc.

Have you worked out what you need to know ?

[quote name='hubrad' post='442534' date='Mar 23 2009, 03:16 PM']Great minds.. [/quote] If he breaks the pots we can share the blame....

If you are absolutely sure there are no screws at the sides..... Get two teaspoons and some thick card to protect the body. Put a piece of card on either side of the pot. Place a teaspoon on either side of the knob with the bowl of the spoon down and resting on the card. Push the edge of each teaspoon under the bottom of the knob then gently lever both teaspoons down at the same time to raise the knob straight up. As long as you're careful to protect the body with cardboard then this should work (but only if there are now screws !!)

Can't locate a specific wiring diagram anywhere. What kind of pickups does it have ? Are they EMGs at all ? And is there a little preamp circuit board inside ? The chances are the red wire will go to the preamp circuit board. Can you post any photos of the components inside the control cavity and maybe it'll turn out to be a standard preamp (rather than a Hohner specific one) so that maybe someone can suggest how it's wired ?

The "Tuner Out" just sends a signal out which can be used as the input to a tuner. On Eden amps I think it's about twice the signal strength of the bass itself - i.e. suitable for any tuner - and it is tapped off BEFORE the preamp section of the amp, so that the tone controls don't affect it. No specific advantage in using that rather than the tuner in-line, although if your in-line tuner mutes the signal while tuning then you would NOT get that from the "Tuner Out" connection. But I think Eden amps have a "Mute" button on the front that mutes everything except the "Tuner Out" jack so you could use it that way. Incidentally, you can also use the "Tuner Out" as the input to a DI box if you wanted.

If there was a problem with the grounding the noise would probably be a lot worse. You can check the wiring but there's a ground wire under the bridge on a P-Bass so to fully check this you'd need to remove the bridge (which is easy enough - you just might not want to go to these lengths !). Find a wiring diagram that approximates to your bass This is a good place to look [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/[/url] And this is a standard P-Bass [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=std_pbass"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...matic=std_pbass[/url] Remove strings and scratchplate. Check all the wiring is properly connected with no dry (dull grey) solder joints - they should all be shiny silver. Unscrew the bridge. Check the wire that comes through the body to the bridge - it is not attached to the bridge, it just gets squashed between body and bridge. Splay the ends of this wire a little, rub the underside of the bridge with some sandpaper to ensure a good contact, then screw it all back. That's about it - obviously you fix any problems you find ! But, as I suggested, if the ground wire was broken you'd get a lot more noise.

No - don't do it. If it says "8 ohm minimum" for the extension speaker then that's what you need. Putting a 1/4 Watt resistor on the output of a 150 Watt amplifier ? ....... I think you can guess what would happen to the resistor !

Yes, the oil does seep into the wood, but I don't believe it gets that deep. You'd probably be able to sand out an oiled finish at a later date, if necessary - the oil does naturally dry out and needs to be reapplied occasionally to keep it fresh. There's also a "waxed" finish like Warwick use. Again, since it's applied with a cloth it's much, much easier to get a smooth even finish. I don't know that furniture restorer's use the sorts of finishes applied to guitars. I might be wrong but they're more likely to be expert in "French Polishing" and that sort of thing. Guitar hard finished are usually sprayed on. If you were wanting a solid painted finish the usual advice is to ask at a car body shop, since that's the same type of finish applied to cars. Clear lacquer is also applied on top of some car finishes so maybe a car repair shop might be able to do a clear finish too ? But note BigRedX's comment about the wood underneath.

Compressors seem to be quite personal things. Each one seems to be different and players will often prefer one over another. The problem with a compressor like that on the Hartke is that it is adjusted by a single control. If you read the sticky about ccmpressors here you'll realise that there are a lot of parameters than can be changed for a compressor (e.g. attack, threshold, sustain and so on) so the question is what exactly does that single control do ? Which parameter (or even parameters) are adjusted as you turn the knob ? Just because the Ashdown and the Hartke each have one knob to control "compression" it doesn't mean that this knob does the same thing on both amps, if you see what I mean ? Anyway - it seems that you don't like the Hartke compressor. There's not much you can do about that really - since you only have the one control to adjust there can be no "fine-tuning" of the compressor's operation. If you want to use a compressor then you'll probably need to try out a separate FX pedal solution and just switch the Hartke one off. Of course, just to complicate things, there's no guarantee that the Ashdown compression pedal uses the same circuitry as that fitted inside the Ashdown amplifiers !

Do you definitely want a "varnish" finish rather than an "oiled" finish ? It's just that a good varnish finish can be difficult to achieve in a domestic environment (it's usually too dusty or the temperature is not ideal). Whereas an oiled finish is much easier.

Have a browse here [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axehardware.htm"]http://www.axesrus.com/axehardware.htm[/url] [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Hardware___Parts/Screws__Nuts___Washers/Pickguard_Screws"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Hardware...ickguard_Screws[/url]

[quote name='Rich' post='430471' date='Mar 10 2009, 01:40 PM']That happened to me with a Russian Big Muff pedal.[/quote] That'll be the one with the "cascading gain stages"....

Sorry, but the first thing you have to do whenever tracing an active EQ problem is to try replacing the battery. A dying battery can cause all sorts of problems so you have to rule this out first before trying anything else.

The previous posts have all answered the actual wiring perfectly. As for what applications they should be used - Balanced - used for longer cable runs as it is (much) more resistant to noise. Generally used for microphones and in PA and studio applications. Unbalanced - try to keep cable runs shorter to prevent noise. Generally used for basses/guitars. It's common to use a "DI box" to convert an unbalanced cable to a balanced cable (e.g. connect unbalanced guitar lead to one side, and take balanaced XLR lead from other side, which can then be plugged directly into a PA mixing desk). If, on stage, there's a need for lots of long leads, then it's common to use DI boxes to convert any unbalanced leads to balanced so that the longer leads are more resistant to noise.

[quote name='OldGit' post='422734' date='Mar 1 2009, 10:23 PM']Not sure the domesic ones will handle many lights at once as our house one can't have an iron going through it, for example.[/quote] The technical blurb says it can switch 10 amps maximum - that would be 8 x 300 Watt PAR cans, for example. Although I'm not sure I'd take it to the limit like that.

There's a comprehensive review of the system here ... [url="http://www.performing-musician.com/pm/dec07/articles/bosel1.htm"]http://www.performing-musician.com/pm/dec0...cles/bosel1.htm[/url] (note that this magazine has a tie up with "Sound on Sound" so I believe they know what they are talking about) [quote name='crez5150' post='421494' date='Feb 28 2009, 07:50 AM']There is a far superior alternative to the Bose..... if your willing to pay that is... - [url="http://www.k-array.com/download/KR200S_data_07.pdf"]K-Array[/url][/quote] Compact "line arrays" seem to in fashion at the moment... [url="http://www.fohhn.com/index.php?id=83&L=1"]http://www.fohhn.com/index.php?id=83&L=1[/url] I just read a very good review of this in this months copy of the same magazine.

Download the PDF manual from here [url="http://www.tcelectronic.com/media/6f601a5fb0f94cb9a1a3c881aacf5e10.pdf"]http://www.tcelectronic.com/media/6f601a5f...881aacf5e10.pdf[/url]

Anything you can do to increase the "break angle" of the string as it passes over the nut will help. Typically this involves looking at how the string is wound on to the tuner post. Neat winding and ensuring that the string exits the post from the bottom of the windings around the post will help here. If that doesn't help, then have a look at the nut slot - is the string too wide for the slot, or is the slot not deep enough ? It could be either.

The cheapest solution is to attach a 4-way (or 6-way) mains board inside the rack, then plug all the rack units into this. Cut the mains cables short to cut down on clutter. Then you only have one mains cable (from the mains board) coming out of the rack. The expensive solution is something along the lines of this [url="http://www.dv247.com/invt/47392/"]http://www.dv247.com/invt/47392/[/url] This has IEC outlets at the back into which you can plug all your rack devices (it comes with suitable IEC cords). Then you just need on mains cable to power this. But note - it will not improve your sound any !

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='417642' date='Feb 23 2009, 06:01 PM']Ahem :blush: :blush: you were right BOD2. Thanks [/quote] At least you're man enough to admit it ! Glad to hear it's fixed, though.