BOD2

I can't find any information from anyone who has fitted one to a bass guitar and done a before/after test. However, it is very easy to add a treble bleed capacitor, and even easier to remove it if you don't like the effect. I would say that the only way to find out for sure is to try it and see. As for the frequency response of a bass, remember that the low "fundamental" notes of the bass will often not be accurately reproduced by your amp/speaker combination anyway. However this isn't actually a problem since as long as the higher order harmonics are present then the brain "fills in" the missing information - [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Missing_fundamental"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Missing_fundamental[/url] What this means in practice is that a slight loss of very low frequencies may actually be totally unnoticed if the note played remains rich in higher order harmonics.

More information here ... [url="http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/potm.htm"]http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/potm.htm[/url] [url="http://www.ratcliffe.co.za/articles/volumepot2.shtml"]http://www.ratcliffe.co.za/articles/volumepot2.shtml[/url] I've done the same mod on a guitar. It certainly works. There's no audible effect on the sound when the volume is up full but as yout turn the volume down it does not get "muddy".

I've never seen a polarised capacitor in a guitar tone circuit and when a capacitor is polarised it's pretty clear that it is and which side is which. You'll be okay to put it in either way.

No - not if I understand the blurb about it correctly. It's an "attenuator". That means it CUTS volume rather than adds volume. I think the idea here is that you can preset a lower volume setting using this box and switch to that or full volume (box bypassed) with the footswitch.

We did "Nature Boy" by Nick Cave and the Badseeds for a while. If only because it contained the lines ... You took me back to your place And dressed me up in a deep sea diver's suit You played the patriot, you raised the flag And I stood at full salute We did get asked for "something Spanish" on one night so we introduced "Brown Eye Girl" by Juan Morrison... (no, they didn't laugh either)

Could it be that you're plucking the open E a little too hard and it's rattling off the frets ? It wouldn't happen with a fretted note on the E string because your left hand would probably dampen the vibration a little. Have a close listen to the bass played on it's own, not through an amp. Do you hear any rattle at all ? If it is that then the solution is either to try and play just a little lighter, or raise the action on the E-string very slightly.

To answer the original post.... I started playing guitar well over 20 years ago. There was no tab and no guitar music written down other than paino music with "equivalent chords" written down and pulled from a chord dictionary (and usually the wrong chord inversions). I learned to play by ear entirely. I started playing bass seriously about 7/8 years ago and just carried that learning technique over. I work out an existing bassline purely by ear, picking out notes by listening and using the exprience I've gained over the years to figure out where things should be played on the neck to sound best. I don't generally think of the note names. I know where the notes are on the fretboard but just don't think of them generally, other than being aware of playing notes around, say "A" or "D" in a particular song (I know that I'll be playing notes from a scale but again I'm playing by "feel" rather than note names). For the music I've played (mostly rock/pop covers) I've found that method works for me with no limitations, as I doubt I would be able to find the basslines in any reliable written format anyway. I'm aware of music notation, and can almost understand most of it but I would not be able to sight read at all. I'm not advocating this approach at all - just answering the question.

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='349999' date='Dec 9 2008, 05:57 PM']It's a 9v AC-DC adapter and can deliver 500mA max. The pedal requires 15mA. Is this ok? The polarity is set to tip- as this is what the pedal requires[/quote] Polarity is ok. Voltage and current are ok. Is the power supply "regulated" or "unregulated" (it may not say) ? It should be "regulated" as this ensures a constant 9V output.

[quote name='SteveO' post='349504' date='Dec 9 2008, 11:09 AM']... at soundcheck I just shout instructions to our gitartist of which knob to tweak.[/quote] You have a guitarist who knows how to set knobs at something other than 11 ? How novel

Assuming we're talking about "real" amps here (as opposed to digital amp modellers) then there's no doubt that the technology exists ... [url="http://www.fender.com/products/cyber/cybertwinse/home.php"]http://www.fender.com/products/cyber/cybertwinse/home.php[/url] The Fender Cyber Twin has motorised knobs so that you can manually create an EQ setting, store it, then reset all the knobs. When you recall the preset EQ the motorised knobs automatically return to the positions that you preset. It wouldn't need much, I suspect, to make that feature controllable remotely so that you could adjust the preset EQ with a handset and the motorised knobs would move to the desired position. How useful this would be i have no idea. It would also be expensive with all that extra hardware.

[quote name='Jesus' post='349195' date='Dec 8 2008, 10:58 PM']It would be cool to do, but my rookie status in the bass world means ive got a year or so to go before i start attaching new necks to things. Thanks though.[/quote] You'd be surprised at how easy it is to change a neck (4 screws - that's all there is to it). And you have the whole of basschat to turn to if you need to ask any questions....

Just one other thought ... if you can, try moving the power supply around into different positions. Setup everything up so that it hums then lift up the power supply and move it around to see if the hum increases or decreases. Sometimes, other items of equipment (cables, or the amp itself) will pickup hum from a power supply and you can minimise this by careful placement of the power supply. It's worth a try.

It seems that not all 9V power supplies are equal. Some are either poorly designed, or poorly screened, or both and can introduce noise into a pedal chain. The problem then becomes knowing which ones are good and which are not. More information here [url="http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/power-supplies-8-c.asp"]http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/power-supplies-8-c.asp[/url] [url="http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/faq-2-c.asp"]http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/faq-2-c.asp[/url]

[quote name='Jesus' post='348757' date='Dec 8 2008, 03:58 PM']Solid as in a 1-piece body? How much difference does this make, arent Thunderbird bodies 3-piece?[/quote] I think that's "solid" as in "not plywood" Most bass bodies will be 3 or maybe 5 pieces glued together but it stands a better chance of being half-decent if these pieces are solid as opposed to plyood or MDF.

Same things available here [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axenob.htm"]http://www.axesrus.com/axenob.htm[/url] or here [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Hardware___Parts/Knobs/Fender_Replacement_Knobs?page=1"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Hardware...nt_Knobs?page=1[/url]

Might have a problem with the stereo signal from the hi-fi going into a mono input on the amp though. Unless you have two inputs you'll probably just hear one side of the stereo sound. The sound quality might mean it's not worth it - your bass amp wasn't designed to give good reproduction to a "full range" signal so it might sound a bit bassy. Hard to tell until you try. If you do try - make sure you turn the amp down to zero before you connect anything. Then bring up the volume slowly, listening for any distortion due to overloading.

Have a look here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=334"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=334[/url] This should explain some of the possibilities for playing through a PA (just so you have a better idea what options are available).

[quote name='bluesparky' post='346144' date='Dec 5 2008, 09:31 AM']It's probably my missus, she's fed up of the pile of mags next to the bed, so she's sending them out to people to get rid of them![/quote] Ah... in that case if I send you my address will she send me all of your back copies of "Space Rats In Leather", please ?

Used them twice in the past couple of months. Goods arrived within a week. I had one problem with an item that had been packaged with a European wall wart - they sent a (good quality) adaptor free of charge within a week. No complaints at all - they are also quite good at keeping you informed too.

[quote name='BassManKev' post='343318' date='Dec 2 2008, 06:12 PM']Personal Address system, used by bands in gigs.[/quote] Sorry... don't mean to be pedantic but it's actually "Public Address" system. The term comes from the sort of loudspeaker systems that were used at railway stations and the like to "address the public" with announcements etc. It is also known as the "Front Of House" speaker system (FOH). The "house" being a theatre, and the FOH system being the speakers setup to send the sound to the front of the theatre and beyond. A PA system comprises all the speakers, amplifiers, mixers and sound processors that are used to project sound into the audience...EXCLUDING the amplifiers used by the musicians on stage. Your own stage amplifiers are often referred to as the "Backline".

It could be a "ground loop" (which is what a "ground lift" switch is designed to eliminate). If you're handy with a soldering iron and don't mind messing up one of your cables you could try cutting the earth/ground wire from ONE of the XLR connectors in the cable you use to connect to the mixer. Cut it at one end only and make sure the loose ground wire cannot touch anything. Now try connecting it up using this cable. If it still buzzes then it's not a ground loop. If the buzz is gone then mark the modifed cable clearly and always use this cable to connect it with.

Woops - you're right about the wrong jack socket connection in the diagram. I'm not familiar with the blend control so I wasn't sure how that might work. Your diagram looks good and gives the extra facility of having both pickups.

I think this wiring would give you "option 2" [attachment=16578:Artec_Switched.jpg] This would give the option of both pickups through the blend/preamp/volume (normal operation) or just one of the pickups directly to the output jack (emergency operation) but with no volume control. I think it should work ok. Note the the contact on the output socket that is changed is the one that connects to the "tip" of the jack plug. Could someone else have a look at this and check if it's ok....

Ah .. it's not quite so simple, as the blend control is part of the preamp circuit. It should still be possible. You have two options - 1. Try to take the output from the blend control and try to switch this 2. Take the output from one pickup only so that the bypass switch would switch to the pickup Option 2 is easier. You'd have no volume or tone on the bypassed sound - it would be full on, but if it's just a fallback then that should be ok. I'll check back later.

It should be possible but without seeing how it's wired I can't be specific. Identify the wires that connect the pickup(s) to the preamp amd the preamp to the output jack. You might be able to connect these two wires to the two centre contacts of a DPDT switch - in one position they wires go to the preamp, in the other position a "jumper wire" across the contacts connects these two wires together. Check here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=32347"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=32347[/url] If you read the thread all that's missing from the photo is the "jumper wire" across the leftmost contacts on the switch.