BOD2

I made up three sturdy wooden boxes, then recessed one of these from Powerbreaker.... [attachment=10885:pb.jpg] ...into each box. Then wired up a short heavy duty mains cable from each box to a rubber moulder plug. Everything heavy duty, indestructible and recessed to avoid potential damage in transit. Plug a box into the venue wall scoket and run one or two trailing leads to the gear. If there are enough sockets at the venue then used all three at different locations on the stage. Plus I would check the wiring inside the box every couple of months to make sure nothing was wearing or coming loose.

All good advice, but you should read this thread below first, before you start ... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=23428"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=23428[/url]

[quote name='bilbo230763' post='238931' date='Jul 14 2008, 09:24 AM']Do you know to write a big band chart? Then f*** o** [/quote] [attachment=10783:MuttleyAni.gif]

Was your gear and the mixer plugged into the same wall socket ? If not then you can sometimes have problems if the different wall sockets are on different mains circuits. Allways worth trying the ground lift switch, although it often will not help.

[quote name='PauBass' post='237418' date='Jul 11 2008, 04:10 PM']Do you Know if it this cable of the Dunlop DC Brick can be bought separetly? I've emailed Dunlop Technical service but still waiting to hearing from them.[/quote] Even it it was you would still have to open up the brick to replace it I'm afraid.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='237396' date='Jul 11 2008, 03:42 PM']You can use any power ouput amp with any power handling cab. If any of these combinations makes bad sounds then turn down and/or stop cranking the bass EQ excessively or damage may occur. Simple.[/quote] Pity we can't have this printed at the top of the forum in BIG LETTERS. This is the simple answer to almost every amp/cab power handling question.

Looks like one of these "no user servicable parts inside" devices. It'll be moulded or glued closed. If you can't open it there's not much you can do I'm afraid.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='237382' date='Jul 11 2008, 03:28 PM']I have a Jap Fender tele - I've had it from new for a little over a year - I reckon it's coming up to needing a refret soon. Crap really[/quote] I think there are several factors involved in fret wear. 1. "Vintage" narrow frets wear quicker than more "modern" wide frets 2. Stainless steel strings will wear the frets quicker than strings with nickel in them 3. The material used for the frets themselves With regard to the fret material, I believe you can get stainless steel fretwire (or something like that) that should never really wear at all. However, it's a bit more difficult to work with (i.e. costs more for mass makers) and it might have an effect on the sound. It certainly would destroy any of the "vintage vibe" that is popular at the moment. But I don't think any of them should be varnished over !

[quote name='bluesparky' post='237336' date='Jul 11 2008, 02:34 PM'].... I'm guilty of having nice toys and not really knowing all of the theory behind them....[/quote] You're not the only one.... [attachment=10694:george_2...sh_thumb.jpg]

Everything is in parallel unless specifically stated otherwise (which is very rare). Soundwise there is no difference in using 2 separate amp outputs, 1 for each cab, and using only one output and daisy chaining from the 1st cab to the 2nd. Both setups will be in parallel and the amp will see the same load. The only (minor) consideration is that when daisy chaining ALL of the amp power will be going through the first cable from amp to 1st cab, as opposed to half the power split between 2 cabs on 2 outputs. Provided you use good quality speaker cables there should be no issues here.

I believe there are several "online" guides. Have a look here [url="http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_string_change/"]http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_string_change/[/url] [url="http://www.ehow.com/how_2304253_restring-bass-guitar.html"]http://www.ehow.com/how_2304253_restring-bass-guitar.html[/url] Also - any questions on "setup" then check here first [url="http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html"]http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassm...etupmanual.html[/url]

+1 On the V-amp Pro the dry DI sound (with no processing) is available at the "PRE DSP Insert - Send/Line Out" jack socket at the rear top left. So in theory you would connect this to your recording device and record the track while listening to the headphones output of the V-amp. I can see a problem here, though, if you are multi-tracking as you need to hear the other tracks on the recorder while playing. If you have a small mixer you could do it through that or there may be some othetr way of doing it. It;s also not clear if there has to be a signal coming back to the "PRE DSP Insert - Return/Line In" jack. Hopefully not. Anyway, you make your recording from that output and you end up with a clean unaffected sound. To add FX you need to play the recorded track back. Connect a lead from the recorder to the "PRE DSP Insert - Return/Line In" jack socket then press the "Line In" button next the input jack on the front panel. This button cuts off the normal input jack and takes input from the line in at the rear. The effected sound will now be available at the normal outputs of the V-amp. The idea now would be to play back teh clean recording, through the FX, and record it onto a new track.

The amplifier does not "see" the power rating of a cab - it only "sees" the impedance. If both cabs are the same impedance it will split the output power equally between them. Although on paper it looks like there might be a problem here (i.e. potentially 375W into a 350W cab) in practice this is unlikely to be a problem. It is most unlikely that you would ever extract the full power of 750W from the amp in such way as to damage anything. As always, the most important advice is to listen. If you hear unplanned distortion, simply back off the power a little.

There's also the nicer graphical version from Seymour Duncan (same info, nicer pictures) [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=std_pbass"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...matic=std_pbass[/url] If you don't actuall need to rewire anything and just want to clean things up then Super Servisol Switch Cleaner is your friend - [url="http://www.djstore.com/item/sersuper10.htm"]http://www.djstore.com/item/sersuper10.htm[/url] Take off the scratchplate, attach the supplied "straw" to the tin and spray a little inside each of the pots. Then apply some onto the jack socket contacts too.

With a little practice it's not hard but you will need to solder the connections, not crimp them. With the exception of products from the [url="http://www.georgels.co.uk/"]George L's[/url] range, most guitar leads are made up with soldered connectors. Better quality connectors will give better leads. The best connectors are probably Neutrik. Also, cheap and old cable is not ideal for making up good leads. It's better to use higher quality cable that will last the life of your gear. Remember, all of your signal goes through these leads. There's no point spending a fortune on good guitars, amps and FX and then connecting them all up with crappy leads. Having said that, it is not necessary to buy extortionately priced ready made leads. You can make up your own or contact obbm on this forum for a quote for ready made, custom length leads. Some info at the links below - [url="http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Custom-Guitar-Cables-on-The-Cheap/"]http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Custo...s-on-The-Cheap/[/url] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hn-biPVqkHs"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hn-biPVqkHs[/url] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0HBxLxy218&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0HBxLxy218...feature=related[/url]

Makes you wonder why they bother booking a band. If it's been raining heavily beforehand (or looks like it might rain heavily during the gig) I'd be wary of the ford ! And, seriously, I would investigate the sensitivity of the limiter before setting anything up. If it's as sensitive as some suggest the power could go off at the first note !

+1 for 2-pole The 4-pole cables are used in applications where there are two separate outputs (e.g. bi-amp applications or a stereo pair) going to two separate speakers sets. A 4-pole cable has two "sets" of speaker cable pairs inside it. A 2-pole cable has a single speaker cable pair and is suitable for standard mono amplifier to speaker setups (i.e. the vast majority of bass rigs) Having said, that I believe you can use correctly wired 4-pole cable with a 2-pole application as they are compatible (2 of the 4 pins will simply not be used) but it makes no sense to pay more for a cable you won't use fully.

I'm not sure this will help. The DC ohmeter won't give you the rated value (e.g. 8 ohms or 4 ohms) so you'll get some other value which means you still have to guess what the speaker's impedance actually is ! On the other hand, it won't do any harm and if you have a known speaker you can also check you might be able to work it out by comparison with the known speaker.

If you're looking for more mic inputs I think the best option around is the [url="http://www.absolutemusic.co.uk/shop/view_product.php?product=fosmr8hd"]Fostex MR8-HD[/url] It has 4 separate mic inputs so you can record 4 independent tracks at the same time then mix them down later. Many of these recorders only have 1 or at best 2 mic inputs so the 4 inputs gives you an extra level of control. The MR8HD has a hard drive for storing data. There's also a cheaper [url="http://www.absolutemusic.co.uk/shop/view_product.php?product=fosmr8mk2"]Fostex MR8 Mk2[/url] that uses Compact Flash cards instead, but is otherwise the same machine. Dead easy to use.

USA mains voltage is 110V whereas UK voltage is 240V (or thereabouts !) If the equipment is mains powered (as opposed to wall-wart powered) then you'll need to convert the voltage - a simple plug converter will not work. Some equipment will have a mains voltage selector on the back. If it does then there is no problem, simply select the corect voltage and it will work. If there is no voltage selector you will need a mains voltage transformer. This will need to supply enough current to power the equipment so it's not likely to be a small wall-wart. This adds to the overall cost and can be a bit awkward to use. Do your homework first - check the equipment to see if it has a voltage selector. If not, find out the power rating and pricve a suitable 240 to 110 V transformer. If the equipment is powered via a DC wall-wart (e.g. like some multi-FX) then all you need is a 240V wall-wart than proved the same DC voltage and current.

From the blurb on the website, the Dimarzio Model J is a humbucking pickup with the option to wire the two coils in series or in parallel (dual sound). This keeps both coils "on" and retains the humbucking mode as opposed to a "coil tap" which actually bypasses one of the coils. It's a direct replacement for Fender pickups which means you can use the stock pots which are usually 250k audio (log) pots.

Not quite the complete answer you're looking for, but I would always put a tuner at the front of the chain because if it's further down the chain and you try to tune in a hurry you might not notice that one or more of your other pedals has been left on. Trying to tune whilst a deep chorus or an a fuzz effect is on might not be easy. At the front of the chain it's just the pure bass signal going into it no matter what happens with the rest of the FX.

Your suggested procedure seems correct. But don't underestimate the time and effort involved in removing the original finish. [url="http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tutorial5.htm"]Project Guitar Tips[/url]

I assume it's not the knob that's wiggling but the actual shaft of the pot itself ? If so there's nothing you can do to the pot really. You would have to look at replacing them, I'm afraid.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='226122' date='Jun 24 2008, 07:16 PM']BOD2 - That bridge seems to have exactly the same saddle adjustment as the Bridge on Lace. Considering how difficult it is to access the saddle height lock-down screw on the Lace where the saddles are near the front of their travel, I can image that it might be quite easy not the properly tighten them up when they're that far back in the bridge mounting...[/quote] You're right - they look identical. I hadn't noticed that. Well that's something else you need to watch out for on the Lace - losing the saddles !