BOD2

I always love to hear the bass in Springsteen's "Santa Claus Is Coming To Town". You might need a large band to pull that version off, though.

We tended not to play real "floor emptiers" more than twice as someone in the band would more or less refuse to play it again as it had gone down so badly at the previous gig ! So couldn't say for sure if there were any consistent ones or just ones that didn't appeal to particular audiences. Like Phaedrus, we found that anything slow would empty the floor unless played at the very end of the night. And to get our own back I would alway put a CD of "Always Look On the Bright Side of Life" (Monty Python) once we'd finished and the lights were about to come back home That way everyone would go home whistling....

Our most consistently popular floor fillers were "Brown Eyed Girl" Van Morrison "Crazy Little Thing Called Love" Queen "I Saw Her Standing There" Beatles version "Should I Stay" Clash We too played "Rockin All Over the World" at the end of most gigs cos people almost demanded it !

When anyone adds a reply to a topic it will show up when you select "View New Posts". You can ressurrect an old, dead topic simply by adding a reply. If someone has posted a question that has not been answered for some time and they want to bring up the topic again they might add a reply and "bump" the topic up in the "New Posts". Often the reply might just contain the word "bump" if they have nothing to add. Acronyms - I don't use a lot but here are a few. GAS - Gear Acquisition Syndrome IIRC - If I Recall Correctly FWIW - For What It's Worth IMHO - In My Humble Opinion LOL - Laughs Out Loud LMAO - Laughing My Ass Off ROFL - Rolls On the Floor Laughing and lets not forget... TLA - Three Letter Acronym

[quote name='Mobius' post='88061' date='Nov 13 2007, 08:22 PM']Isn't that when he started DI'ing his bass instead of micing up his amp?[/quote] Aha ! Maybe that's where all the confusion started. John must've said to someone "My bass player DI'ed" and someone misreported this.

I don't know the cab you have or what you've tried already so excuse me if I'm stating the obvious. If the speaker is "front loaded" you need to remove the speaker grill from the front of the cab, undo any fixings then pull the speaker forwards to get it out. If it's "rear-loaded" then you need to remove the rear of the cab, undo any fixings then pull the speaker back to get it out. It may have a foam sealing gasket between speaker and mounting/baffle board. This may have stuck to the board making it difficult to move. Ensure all fixings have been removed/undone then try to gently prise large a flat-bladed screwdriver between the speaker chasis edge and the baffle board. Beyond that advice, I'm stumped.

I'd have to agree with shimming the neck on this one. Mainly because its completely reversible. It's no big deal to take off the neck on a Fender-type bass with a little care. Filing the bridge pieces is an option (as is filing deeper grooves in the top of the bridge pieces) but you'll always be limited in how much adjsutment you can get using either of these techniques (there's only so much material you can file off until you start to get problems). Shimming the neck is non-destructive and you can make very small or very lage changes to the action using this technique.

I'm sure you can buy some of these pre-wired (the Aguilar range in particular). The OBP-3 is a good one - it has 3-band control and it can be handy to have that "mid" control. The biggest consideration, however, is where to put the battery. There isn't usually a lot of room in the standard control cavity and it may not be possible to squeeze a battery in there so you'll have to make a hole for it somewhere ! Worth planning this through before you buy.

You can't go far wrong with an [url="http://www.dolphinmusic.co.uk/page/shop/flypage/product_id/3354"]Alesis SR16[/url]. They've been around for a long time now so you should be able to find one second hand. Good sounds and fairly easy to program.

I've heard some good things about [url="http://www.rodemic.com/"]Rode[/url] if your budget is tight. Some prices here [url="http://www.dolphinmusic.co.uk/?keyword=rode&page=shop%2Fsearch_results&manufacturer_id=0"]Dolphin Music[/url]

Soldering onto the back of metal pots is a little tricky because the mass of the pot shell dissipates the heat. For this job you need a bigger iron - probably 30 Watts minimum as 15 Watt iron might not have enough power. The thing about soldering is that all surfaces need to be hot enough for the solder to melt on them - that means the metal pot shell has to get hot enough locally for the solder to melt onto it. It can take a good few seconds for this to happen. You'll know when it does as the solder will flow onto the metal. When it reaches this point work quickly to get the wire soldered onto the pot. As soon as you remove the heat everything will cool down - make sure the wire cannot move until the solder has set - sometimes it helps to hold the wire down with a small screwdriver while it sets (a 3rd hand is useful here). A good solder join is smooth and shiny. A bad one is dull and grey.

[quote name='Dave' post='73261' date='Oct 12 2007, 11:39 AM']As a recent purchaser of a valve amp with Standby switch that I didn't know how to use, I've done quite a bit of research on this, and have come to the conclusion that when switching the amp off, you are NOT supposed to switch off the standby before switching off the power. By powering down in the reverse order to that stated in 2/3 above supposedly allows any remaining charge to drain out of the power filters. www.musictoys.com/gearhead/gear14.php Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to have read this in a few different places, including the Marshall amp FAQ.[/quote] That's interesting, I hadn't seen that before. I can see the sense in it. I accept that it's probably the correct way to do things but the only potential drawback I can see is that if you don't habitually check the Standby switch BEFORE you switch on, then it may well be left on from the last time you used it. Unless of course you're switch off routine involves ensure the Standy is off once everything is powered down. I suppose it all depends on how good you are at remembering these things. Who'd have thought switching your amp on/off would be so complicated

Do you mean the actual rod or the nut at the end of the rod ?

[quote name='beerdragon' post='70365' date='Oct 6 2007, 04:53 PM']Thanks, not got off to a good start, just poked myself in the eye having a shave![/quote] Hope it wasn't an open razor .......

^^ Yep - most likely to be dirt in the pot or a worn out pot. Try squirting some electrical contact cleaner (e.g. Super Servisol but NOT WD40) into the innards of the pot to see if that helps. If it doesn't then the pot might need repaced. This isn't usually a difficult job but does require soldering.

[quote name='finnbass' post='69743' date='Oct 4 2007, 10:36 PM']I can just see this on 'Bargain Hunt' [/quote] Is that rhyming slang aimed at the seller ?

[quote name='mancunianfox' post='69492' date='Oct 4 2007, 01:17 PM']I liked [i]'There are numerous signatures on this guitar which are yet to be verified. so we do not know much on those as yet.'[/i] Plus who the hell was Sid [b]Viscous[/b]????[/quote] Didn't he do a record with that legendary producer Tony Viscosity ? I'm pretty sure he came to a sticky end.

Don't have any specific answers but here's some more info [url="http://guitar.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/GenSetup/Nuts/nuts1.html"]NUTS ![/url] Hopefully someone who's had a similar problem previously will respond soon.

Loads of places. Try the following links. Before ordering, contact the supplier and tell them EXACTLY what year etc. you are ordering for and check if you can return the item if there's any problems fitting it. I don't know about P-Bass pickguards but sometimes there are discrepanceis in the position of teh screwholes for different years of bass so it's always worth checking first. [url="http://www.fender.co.uk/products/search.php?partno=0992161000"]Fender.co.uk[/url] [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeplates.htm"]axesrus.com[/url] [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/category/Pickguards/Fender®_Basses"]wdmusic.co.uk[/url] [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/catalogue/index.php?cPath=91011_91096&ALLPAR=180248ca23b284b689a7ab7282ad79b0"]allparts.uk.com[/url]

[quote name='Toasted' post='68071' date='Oct 1 2007, 12:24 PM']What's the difference?[/quote] Grumble, mumble, moan....read the [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193"]sticky[/url] ...grumble, mumble, moan....

Given that most people just switch on and plug in, AND pull the lead out of the guitar without muting first, then you probably haven't damaged the amp by not doing the above. You've probably just been unlucky. I just hate to hear "pops" and "bangs" so that procedure stops them. By "circuit breaker" I'm assuming you mean an "RCD" device. This will protect you, and the amp, from damage caused by incorrectly wired mains circuits. ALL players should use one of these cheap devices to reduce the risk of death or injury from electric shock. An RCD doesn't "filter" mains or suppress surges. "Power conditioners" do this but there's a whole thread on these [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=4755&hl=power+conditioner"] here [/url]. A mains tester will show up any basic problems with the wiring (which you then won't be able to do anything about other than point it out to someone at the venue who probably doesn't care !). An RCD is a much better investment.

Strictly speaking the "correct" way to switch amps on/off is as follows - Valve amp with "Standby Switch" To Switch ON 1. Ensure the master volume is at 0 2. Ensure the Standby switch is OFF 3. Switch ON the power 4. Wait for at least a minute or so 5. Switch ON the Standby 6. Bring up the master volume To Switch OFF 1. Turn the master volume down to 0 2. Switch OFF the Standby 3. Switch OFF the power Solid state amp (no "Standby") To Switch ON 1. Ensure the master volume is at 0 2. Switch ON the power 3. Wait for at least a minute or so 4. Bring up the master volume To Switch OFF 1. Turn the master volume down to 0 2. Switch OFF the power If you have to unplug your bass while the amp is on then switch on the Standby switch if you have one, "mute" the amp, or turn down the master volume before unplugging. The idea is that there should be no "pops/bangs" when you unplug. Alternativley, unplug ypour lead from the amp first, then unplug your bass. You can also usually just "half-unplug" your lead at the amp end - pull it out to the first stop, then unplug your bass from the other end. Of course, very few people do this and very few people have any problems with amps blowing due to switch on/off unplugging amps. Your problems are more likely to be bad luck or problems with the electrical supply itself.

The only thing to watch (and it shouldn't be a problem on most basses) is that the body is flat in the bridge area (i.e. not a gently contoured shape). The BadAss has a flat bridge plate so needs to sit on a flat body. Other than that you'd just need to take a little care on the positioning of the bridge to make sure it's square and also the right distance from the nut (although there's plenty of adjustment in the saddles to compensate for that.

[quote name='Maark' post='64650' date='Sep 24 2007, 10:40 AM']Sorry to sound like a plonk, but how would one go about changing strings? I have to admit, I failed to ask that when I bought it. *feels silly*[/quote] Everybody has to start sometime. Try these links for info [url="http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_string_change/"]tunemybass.com[/url] [url="http://www.learnlicks.com/watchVideo.cfm?lickID=301"]learnlicks.com (video !)[/url] [url="http://www.warwickbass.com/basssurvival101/lesson_2string.htm"]Warwickbass.com[/url]

[quote name='paul, the' post='61147' date='Sep 16 2007, 01:41 PM']I know this has been mentioned upteen times before (so sorry) but while this thread is active:[list=1] [*]what badass (if any) do you have to screw extra holes for? [*]What are the differences between the different badasses?[/quote] See the "sticky/pinned topic" at the top of this forum for info on BadAss bridges