tommorichards

You could have a go at making some yourself. Its what ive had to do a few times.

probably yes. Or you could have it externally.

sounds most probable. My washburn had 2 vol, 1 tone, and a 3 way switch incase the wolume control didnt work,.,,,

i just wired a jack for input to test its viability. I currently have mine in a little plastic box which does for now. I will also be doing it in my spare time, and mostly on weekends. Im not really doing it for the money, but because i would have loved to have been able to buy this kinda preamp for that much, so i figure other people may feel the same.

Cant see any bass necks with 21 frets on there.

Im wondering for my sabre build as its pretty much the only thing i dont have. I wouldnt even mind a decent non-luitherian-business-owner amateur making one as long as it worked.....

i dont see why not. I suppose if people are interested, i could make the stingray preamp too. Its the same minus the bright switch.

You have yourself a pm

The pots required are: 25k log for volume 100k log for bass 1m linear (originally reverse log, but it doesnt matter too much) Im not sure the specs for the pot exist for a stacked bass/treble control, What sort of configurations?

makes sense. Feel like posting some pictures?

Any luck yet?

Quite possibly. So lets say that it wouldnt be supplied with a centre detent control. Its nicer that way, not knowing if your sound has any treble added or taken away.

i know what you mean, and people would be free to upgrade them if they so wish. What about a centre detent for the treble. As the bass is boost only it doesn't matter so much, but for the treble with boost and cut, it will be like the original preamp controls

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1333902160' post='1607974'] Quite a few basses seem to use small diameter pots and in the case of my Warwick Rockbass the larger CTS pots will not fit. Choice may be a good thing here ot the option above, board only. [/quote] If you wanted this option, i could supply the board with wires and a diagram of what is needed. the current pots are the small diam ones though, 16mm IIRC. ill probably order some parts next weekend. If i could get a general number of how many to start out with that would be helpful. I suppose if you are interested in one, just drop me a PM so i can get some numbers. Cheers!

What about brand of pots. at the moment im using alpha, bog standards. Would people want CTS, or would it not matter as pots are the most expensive components in this thing the price would increase. Also, if anyone just wanted the board without any pots or jacks etc, it would be about £6-7

Would people be wanting a blend pot, as right now it would only come with 2 leads for input.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1333875509' post='1607519'] sounds good idea! On printed boards? Using tant. or elect. caps? And why the saber before the stingray? [/quote] Well, i could probably get some boards printed up, but right now its vero board which does alright. At the moment its a mix of both tant and elect caps. Sabre as i was planning on making a sabre clone bass. The ray is the same, but minus the bright switch. Seems like a few people interested then....

Awesome.

It is. The final assembly would include the bright switch, bass, treb, vol and stereo output jack for the battery switching.

Im thinking of making a few of these as my own has gone well, and im wondering if anyone would be interested in buying one for around this price when there are chinese ones for about £8. Admittedly the chinese ones are cheaper and maybe a bit rubbish to audiophiles, but with it being a sabre based preamp, im wondering if that helps. Any input is appreciated.

It just means that the pickups will blend in different directions That one would make a clockwise turn favour source A. Doesnt make any sound difference at all really. But if you turn it clockwise hoping to increase the volume of the bridge pickup, then you would be disappointed.

No problem mate. My original problem was solved a while ago. Also, are you looking for more nuts like that? Ive never seen em before.

same thing happened to me the first time i soldered it up, hence the title of the thread My problem was that i wired the volume and bass in the wrong places. Are you using a jack to turn the battery off and on?

in dizzle