Davebassics

I'd be dead up for going to Germany! Going to get wor lass to do some photoshopping to see what my custom would look like! Thinking 5 String Fretless Jake with MM and P Pickups ... would look great with a jazz body as well but I feel like the MM pickup looks weird so close the the control plate. GAS, GAS, GAS

I'm in!

Oh dear. GAS!

I'm in the market for a fretless and these are beautiful! Only seem to have fretted on the website though? Incredibly silly question .... How do you pronounce Maruszczyk?!

Here is my Jazz Bass. Been building/Modifying it for 4 years and will probably continue to do so. Squier Affinity Body Sadowsky Onboard Preamp Dimarzio Ultra Jazz PUs Schaller Tuners Mighty Mite Neck IMO looks and sounds beautiful! [attachment=212069:2016-02-10 17.53.53.jpg]

[sharedmedia=core:attachments:195863] DIY refurbishment, finally finished 3 years after starting it! Not a DIY build from scratch but it ways, from scratch would have been easier! Specs: Squier Affinity Jazz Bass Precision Neck DiMarzio Ultra Jazz Pickups Sadowsky Onboard Pre Badass II Bridge Fender Tuners Build Diary & Sound clips [url="http://audiodomain.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Bass%20Restoration"]HERE[/url]

I haven't got my posh headphones with me at the minute, will listen when I get the chance. What are your thoughts?

When you hit distortion is it at the very end of the pot of does it fade in as you approach the end? If it is only at the very end then in may be a faulty pot. I have had this, the pot creates an open circuit right at the end and the thing goes haywire.

Try re-flowing the solder on the pot. Let it get hot and it should melt and take shape around the pot. This should be enough to ensure that any dry joints are taken care of.

Definitely sounds like a connection problem. Whether that is an electrical connection or a wireless connection I'm not sure. As a test, you could connect your wireless transmitter so something that makes a constant tone such as a keyboard/sampler etc (make sure you turn the source down as it will likely be a line output). Then if the is any signal monitoring on you receiver watch from drop outs and peaks. When you test your signal path, have you tried everything in a different order? For example, doing effects before wireless? I know you wouldn't use this set up in any normal circumstance but if it is 1 piece of equipment not working with another, removing that from the chain may help identify the problem.

How are you getting on with this?

very good!

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1401006528' post='2458906'] Sterling Ball wasn't the first to use a preamp...Burns used active pickups in their basses in the 60's. Thanks for sharing though, I might learn a little more about bass related electronics through your generosity. I'm curious about attenuation, so many preamps have two sockets but companies like Avalon make DI's which only need one. How does Avalon achieve something that other manufacturers over look? Is it a cost thing? [/quote] Fair enough regarding the sterling ball (mis)fact. Research was a bit out! I cant speak from a commercial point of view but if I had to guess it is a marketing thing. If there are 2 sockets on the front it could be seen as an extra feature.Almost all preamps are designed to have enough headroom for active and passive basses so it can handle either. Depending on how active circuitry is design, it may well have a lower output impedance than a passive bass but this shouldn't matter as most preamp inputs have an impedance of around 1M and in some cases 10M. This is enough to bridge either active or passive signals. Input caps will protect against and rogue DC offset from a active bass. Personally I don't see the need for 2 inputs. If you are switching between active and passive basses then a pad switch may help level matching (but that said, 2 inputs does the same job and may workout cheaper!). Hope this answers your question!

I'm revoking my caps theory!

Hi there. Before I begin, I hope this post is appropriate. I guess it falls under "technical". I'd like to share with you my bass preamp designs from a few years back. My life has changed direction in recent months and I have decided to call it time on my DIY bass preamp project. It has now been actively going for 3 years! The following link has all of my research, designs, schematics, build notes, tests and conclusions. I'd really love it if anyone used my foundations for future development or inspiration. All I ask is you keep me updated on your progress. [url="http://audiodomain.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/bass-guitar-preamp-design.html"]http://audiodomain.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/bass-guitar-preamp-design.html[/url] The document on this page is part of my dissertation from 2012. It is a great resource for those looking to learn audio electronics, especially bassists. I hope you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it (cliche!) Dave

Never heard of anything like this before. Sounds like faulty electronics in your bass to me. Because the volume comes back within a specific time of the pop, I would say the component at fault could be something with a time constant. Most likely a capacitor. If for example there is a loose wire as suggested by Dad3353, then it could short a capacitor and discharge it. Depending on where the cap is and what its doing this may cause a drop in volume until it is recharged. When the volume comes back, does it come back all at once or does it fade back in? As I said, I've never seen this before and I have no evidence that my theory is correct, its just an initial hunch!

Does the blown transformer have any sort of part number on it so you can look up the specs?

External Preamp?

You could decrease the size of the cap. Try a 0.047uF or even a 0.022uF. Otherwise, your logic seems good to me!

Does your 500W get hotter/Drive the fans more? Anything that isn't converted to compressed/decompressed air is wasted wattage.

Volume controls are logarithmic so the first steps have a much greater affect on "Volume" than the later steps. I guess that would mean in the initial stages of 2 different amplifiers, both are closer than they would be towards the end of the taper. The taper on the pot and the efficiency of the amp can also be a factor on the signal leaving the amplifier. Another thing to consider is your definition of "Volume". I think your referring to "perceived loudness" which is a whole other ball game. But yes I agree, you wouldn't expect 2 amplifiers by the same manufacturer to sound the same given the identical settings and different wattage.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1399737804' post='2447189'] that looks interesting... interesting enough that I clicked on your blog.... and then went to the most recent post.... now you seem to be making something in a rack case... and after going back through 3-4 pages of blog posts you haven't said what it is! Thought it would be easier to ask rather than keep going back through the blog.... What is it? [/quote] Yes its a GSSL compressor, SSL Mix bus clone. It went into operation before I managed to do the final blog post. It's been on my list of things to borrow it back and finish the blog for about 18 months! Poor show I know! Thanks for reading!