Grangur

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1453762648' post='2962633'] Thanks MBA Is it true that if you play with your vols ( or is it tone ) on max, the cap has no affect , or very little until you back off slightly ? [/quote] In theory, if you turn the tone pot to the point that it's on its lowest resistance, the pot will be short-circuiting the cap. So in theory at this point the capacitor has little effect. You can't say it will have no effect, but it will be greatly reduced.

[quote name='ped' timestamp='1261517588' post='691868'] Hi guys We have decided that from here on in, sellers must clearly state a price when selling items in the marketplace. This will make transactions more upfront and stop people effectively holding private auctions. If you have a thread without a price, please edit and add one - any new threads from now on will need a price. See rule #5 for sellers here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?act=SR&f=19"]http://basschat.co.u...php?act=SR&f=19[/url] Cheers ped [/quote] This link takes you straight to the "home" page.

If you already have a set of metric gauges why not compare the Sadowsky measurements with the ones in the Fender guide. They're probably very much alike. Then that would be a starting point. After a while you'll soon find out the measurements that suit you best. Then you'll stick with those. For myself, I stopped using feeler gauges a long time ago. I have other ways to measure that are far easier.

For the punchy sound you're looking for I'd suggest 500, 500, 250. 500 on the volume gives more clank. The value of the resistance on the tone pot doesn't change the tone. What a high resistance tone pot will do is give you 50% of the rotation won't do much. On the value of the capacitor; I once worked on a bass and connected 2 capacitors with a switch. The values were significantly different, but the tone difference between them was minimal.

I think a lot of this depends on what the finish is that you're polishing. I've used T-Cut and Autosol on different basses and got differing results. It's also worth remembering to check out the cloth you use. Some apparently soft "cotton" cloths can leave a load of scratches. I find an old t-shirt or a micro-fibre cloth is best.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1453666034' post='2961606'] I should point out this is down south on the Sunshine Coast near Hastings, not down south on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia. Just to be clear. P.S. John is a very nice man and his work is of the highest standard. [/quote] Ahh.. ok. Anyone want to buy some flight tickets to Queensland?

[quote name='deepbass5' timestamp='1453632300' post='2961124'] mrtcat - yes quite right, 4 pin speakons are designed for feeding separate high and low signals to a speaker cabs via a single 4 core cable so bi amp bass amps e.g. a GK would utilise this system, my problems with a 4 pole speakon maybe just be age and use and could have occurred on an old 2 pole plug, but I wondered if failure is more likely due to the twist action where a [b]weak spring trying to apply pressure to 4 contact fingers may leave the two you require to not get the pressure required to make good contact,[/b] I have just got a bit superstitious! about it and feel if there are only two contact points those are the ones that will meet up when i twist it into place. [/quote] That's an interesting thought. Right now I have a Stagg, Speakon-Jack, cable between the LM3 and the One10. It works. Either way round. I think I'll get 2x new 4-pole plugs and put them on the GK cable and see how it goes. If that fails I'll be sure to pay the good Mr Obbm a visit. Thanks guys for all the input

What you have is a 3-way Economy Toggle switch. According to Stewmac the wiring is not as you have it. This is their diagram. So, it would seem the connection you have to taken as earth is, in fact the output! I'd have done the same as you. This could make all the difference if the centre terminal that you've taken as the output is, in fact, connected to the case of the switch.

Ok, thanks for the information. I'm reading this on a phone. So you helped me out a lot with that. The steps I would take are: 1 Individually connect each pup to a jack socket in turn and check they both work. Ideally not the jack in this bass. I like to keep a spare jack socket for this purpose. 2 Connect a pup straight the volume to check that works. 3 If 2 doesn't work, try connecting a different jack to the output of the pot. And, yes I do travel to Oxford for work, but not this week.

The circuit should be fairly easy to sort out as it's a simple 2 pup circuit with a selector switch. What's hard to see from the picture is what's going on with the switch terminals. The Tony Franklin bass has a similar set up. It seems to me you simply need a multi meter and get to understand how the switch works. I'd be happy to take a look. But your profile is incomplete so nobody knows where you are.

[quote name='deepbass5' timestamp='1453573933' post='2960724'] I would say only go for two pin 1+ 1- Only that i had some real issues with an old 4 pin Speakon I used from an old PA cable that was about 15 years old. basically lots of intermittent sound problems plugging into my Markbass head which i would guess is a two pin. It took me ages to find the problem due to using a combination of two cabs, two amps and two made up cables sometimes Daisey chained. [/quote] Many thanks guys. It's interesting that you should say about a Mark Bass head. It's an LM2 that I had the problem with at first. It also happens with a Barefaced cab too.

Hi there, I have a nice, really chunky Speakon lead. It's a GK and it looks the business, but when I use it on an amp the plug often needs to be turned a bit back in the twist action for a useable contact to be made. This results in poor contact and has been known to cause overheating in the amp. i'm thinking of buying some replacement Speakon plugs to fit on the ends. I'd get Neutrik, to make sure they're worth the effort, but should I get 2 or 4 pin? Will either work? Thanks in advance.

You can do a lot worse than Wilkinson pups. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Wilkinson-MWJB-Neck-Bridge-Bass-Pickup-Set-for-JB-type-guitars-Jazz-/111873624384?hash=item1a0c300940:g:kRoAAOxyZwpSUTyP I have no connection with Wilkinson. I just know I used them on a bass I built up.

What if you don't like that favourite bass when the frets are gone? There's too much chance of this ending in regrets for my liking. If I were you I'd buy a cheap bass and convert that, or find a cheap fretless.

Oh dear... Mrs G is getting GAS for that tone! 'til now Mrs G was a Warwick fan. She's a Wreck convert now.

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1453562054' post='2960581'] Canterbury, pretty good with basic electrics and woodwork re bass and guitars with shedloads (literally) of spare parts. Don't ask me to play the bloody things though, I'm crap. Yes, good thread [/quote] I love it! Thanks Beedster. I'm good with woodwork repairs and setups, sorting electrics on passives and soldering. I've sprayed bodies and necks, done some veneering, done re-frets and fixed a truss-rod. Happy to look at most things.

Thanks for posting, they are incredible. The attention to detail to get them looking great is impressive.

[quote name='therealting' timestamp='1453555835' post='2960503'] What Cato said. Matchsticks and a bit of wood glue. Let dry, then screw into that. [/quote] Matchsticks are a softer wood than cocktail sticks, so the fix using a matchstick won't last as long. Use cocktail sticks if you have them.

The pole pieces on this type of pup screw up and down if you insert the right allen key into the hole. Wind the pole up a bit and get a small file and take off any rough bits that catch your finger. I'm not 100% sure, but I guess you can wind it out completely. If you can, try doing that and turn the pole piece over and replace it in the hole.

Remove the screw from the body and get a cocktail stick and dip it in wood-glue, or PVA glue, then stick it into the hole as far as it goes, then break/cut off the section that's sticking out of the hole. Allow the glue to dry, then screw the strap button back onto the body. Job done. Edit: Cato just beat me to it

In the time I've been here I've learned that not all BCers are able to tweak their basses or do soldering jobs. So, this list is for those who could do with a hand to do those small jobs. Some folk listed here may do the job for free, others may make a small charge, or charge for parts. The cost is down to you to negotiate with the other member. If you'd like to be added to the list, simply post in this thread. The list is vaguely North -> South. North UK Fionn Outer Hebrides, Scotland - the top bit Neepheid Aberdeen acebassmusic 7 miles south of Aberdeen Rmcki Argyll EmmettC Edinburgh Meddle - Edinburgh Geoffbyrne - Glasgow - (set-ups and tweaks) thepurpleblob - Glasgow TwinCam County Durham - Electrics, necks, bodies - most things. Pete1967 - Leeds Steve-Soar - Wirral - Also teaches bass Jaybass-70 - Wirral andytravis - Manchester - Electrics, repairs, de-frets Midlands UK Andyjr1515 Derby - Andy will do most things. chazzjeuk Ashbourne, Derbyshire bassislife16 - Clifton, Derbyshire jebroad Stoke / Derby bassulike66 Rugeley, just north of B'rum T-Bay Tamworth, just north of B'rum Roger2611 Northampton Manton Customs Shropshire/Staffs Wales UK Jimothey Denbigh North Wales Gelfin Cardiff, S. Wales - Set-ups, Electrics East Anglia lownote12 Diss, Norfolk/Suffolk - (Setups and tweaks) Lonestar North Essex/Cambridge West England MoonBassAlpha Oxford Dudgeman Swindon Central & Southern Inc London Twigman Dunstable, Beds Grangur Herts/Essex - think Stansted Airport - Electrics, fretwork, re-finishes. Not much I don't do. Gary-mac - Herts / North London - Fretwork, necks, electrics. Number6 East London ahpook London dudewheresmybass North Kent, Near Dartford(ish) Obbm Farnham, Surrey Neilp - Crawley (also does DB!) Beedster Canterbury KioGon "Sunshine Coast" (Hastings, Sussex; not Queensland, Australia) Mykesbass Sussex, Crawley/Brighton mickhardup - Near Portsmouth Jimryan Portsmouth Chienmortbb Poole, Dorset. May be able to go to Southampton too Telebass Dartmoor/SW Devon/SE Cornwall Mainland Europe marcoelwray - Belgium - Marco does most things on basses