Grangur

Interesting answers, but isn't asking about the function of the TR a bit like asking about a car: "Oh, er, and does the engine work?" If the answer is "no" then this should be a fundemental declaration in the advert.

Relief; capo on fret 1, finger on fret 20/24 and tap on the string on fret 7 to make sure there's next to no gap. Put a 2.5mm or 3mm allen key under each of the strings at the bottom fret and make sure the string rises no more than a gnat's as I push it under. I then use a 4/5mm allen key on the top of the pups to get the right height for those.

I broke a TR once - shear stupidity when adjusting a vintage neck. I broke my own rule of "if you can't adjust/do it easy, then you've got something wrong". And, it wasn't easy, and I broke it - stupid

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1444656051' post='2884800'] In all honesty, it's never occurred to me to check. My bad, probably. [/quote] Don't know. I guess that's the second question; "how often has anyone found they bought a bass where the TR didnt' work?" Maybe it's simply my own paranoia?

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1444655929' post='2884797'] Says the man that put me off this idea in the first place [/quote] I was hopeful. So were you.

Practice sight-reading and use pieces that encourage you to explore the world of the dark arts above the 7th fret! A good one I found is [url="https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?resid=88014765C749B87!347&ithint=file%2cpdf&app=WordPdf&authkey=!AJq7elXKOMBsXlk"]Autumn Leaves[/url] Others are here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/215336-learning-to-read-the-dots-sheet-music-to-learn-with/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.u...__fromsearch__1[/url] Another I'm using is [url="https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?resid=88014765C749B87!258&ithint=file%2c.pdf&app=WordPdf&authkey=!AIxJkOPw7ijNt8c"]Morning Has Broken[/url] which I play using the C on the E string. Actually, work on these in as many positions on the neck as you can find. Edit: I know others will be along in a minute shouting this down as "this isn't bass playing!" But I don't have the spare time to be in a band so this is what I enjoy doing. IMHO it's better than playing roots to an MP3

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1444653408' post='2884756'] No but I have got the shop to take some relief out of the neck (I play with a very light touch) - if they couldn't do it, I would walk away. [/quote] If you're buying from a shop, then there is a different expectation that they SHOULD be up-front and honest, and this is a good way to get it checked, but what if it's a Gumtree special in someone's lounge? I appreciate that maybe some folk simply don't buy on the secondhand, evilbay/Gumtree circuit.

It's all in the title really. Every bass I've ever bought was used. I take a look at the TR adjustment so see if it looks ok. I look at the action, but something I've never done is get out the allen keys and try the adjustment on the TR. I doubt I'm not alone here, but do many folk here actually try the TR adjustment? After all, one of our biggest fears is getting it home and finding the TR is well and truly.... But to me it almost feels like it's like checking if the guy is a liar when he says it's all in good condition. So isn't it a bit embarrassing to get the wrenches out? The thing is it simply makes sense to do it... doesn't it?

I think on this you need a hot glue: http://youtu.be/dibbo2Y2dNY

They have a proper shop. They're generally open 10am - 6pm. They also have basses and amps you can try out too. I have no invested interest/connection etc. Just my local shop. They're near Tescos and behind "The Range". You could take your bass and compare the tuners. They also have a luthier guy there some of the time.

Yes, I got some cheap ones from Gig Gear in Harlow. They were about £14-15.

Measuring the position of the Encore P-pup. The bottom is 740mm from the nut. This compares to: Marlin Slammer P bass: 750mm Westone Thunder P bass: 750mm Warwick SS1 PJ: 774mm My preference is for a bass tone, rather than too much of a Stingray clank. So if anything I'd probably like the pup near to the neck as possible.

Fair point Danny, about the solo'd J. I've got a Warwick SS1 PJ. So I know the J on that isn't as big as the P, but the J on the Encore is hardly audible by comparison to the P. Besides the Entwhistle is only £20 posted, so it's no big investment. I thought about the MM. The sweetspot for a MM is with the first coil of the MM halfway through the bridge half on the P. On this, being a PJ, with the P positioned a bit further up to the neck it could go right behind the P, I guess. I too had thought about having a split switch. It's not too late yet, I guess. The other thought, is "what's building a bass about, if all you're going to do is stick with the standard config?" Hmmmm you've got me thinking now.

Decided to stick with the jazz pup. So I've got the MM one up for sale. Sanded down the body. It seems to be quite a good looking piece of ash, unless I'm mistaken. The pickguard is a bit warped. I tried fitting it. It fits ok, but I'm not happy with it, even after drilling the holes to secure the pickguard. So I filled the holes by glueing and tapping in some kebab sticks. I nipped them off close to the body with some fret pliers and sanded the body again to get them flat. I've gone for an oiled finish. [size=4]I've also mailed Martin at www.simscustom.com [/size]about getting a new PG made. The jazz pup seems a bit weedy too, so I've ordered an Entwhistle. Really pleased with the P pickup though.

Gone.... no surprise there