Grangur

[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1443600878' post='2876005'] Another neat idea! This may be considered a bit more "brute force" but could work well A neat method would be to drill a pilot hole for the screw, then a slightly wider, shallower hole to countersink the screw.... Once everything was in place, and glue has had time to set you could then fill the countersunk space with some sawdust and PVA, or suitably coloured wood filler [/quote] Thanks for that. That's the kind of thing I was thinking of doing. If I can get 2 long, thin screws in there, then it should be stabilised and the risk of it being knocked off by an unfortunate knock should be minimised. If I can get the top counter-sunk a few mills then some filler of the right colour will hardly get noticed. Besides I doubt if this bass will ever be a great beauty. Certainly I doubt if it will ever be under great scrutiny unless I'm trying to pass it off as a vintage Fender.

Good points here guys. Maybe I can wangle a scalpel blade or pin into the cracks enough to get some superglue down there. I'd certainly like to stabilise it.

The first time round you were entitled to your money back or a replacement. They had no legal right to insist on it being repaired. Having accepted a repair, I believe you now don't have a right to a replacement or refund, but if I were you that's what I'd be going for . Good luck!! [quote name='artisan' timestamp='1443434579' post='2874554'] ...so i'll be phoning GAK at lunch time to arrange another return,luckily i kept the box as i haven't trusted it since it's first failure.... wish me luck cheers [/quote] You don't need the original box if the gear fails. You're returning faulty gear, you're not selling it back to them. If a seller insists on a box if you're returning faulty stuff, then they're only using it to fob you off.

[quote name='B.Flat' timestamp='1443441389' post='2874643'] Thanks[u] warwickhunt [/u], [b]??[/b] (where you the bassist with The Two Hats?) , I'll get some wax. Somebody told me there was a luthier trick with a magnet to determine the proximity of a trussrod to the back of the neck, but I have forgotten what it was! [/quote] My guess is if you hold a strong magnet to the back of the neck and you feel a magnetic pull of the magnet to metal, then you're near being through to the TR. The trouble is, if the TR is carbon fibre or graphite or any other hi-techy new wonder material, you can't trust this. Maybe Warwickhunt will have good info on what Warwick were using in 2008? For myself, I would stick to some light sanding and keep the profile the same.

I could be talking total balderdash here, but I had an unreliable output from my amp too, until I found out it was the lead. The speakon plug had to be twisted slightly i in the socket. Just thought it might be worth mentioning that it's worth looking at all angles.

I'm not a subscriber to the mag, but are we talking about a team of writers who are not keeping to the same format, or is it a single writer who is inconsistent? I ask because if it's a "team" not following a single format, this could be because all the reviews may be written by freelancers who don't work in the office of the mag and may be paid peanuts (if at all).

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1443379775' post='2874277'] Forgot to say... Handles the low B on my EMG loaded Stingray5 with ease. It's been a Motown day! [/quote] Great to hear! <pedant>But as you already know, JJ only ever played on a 4 string.</pedant>

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1443426150' post='2874474'] Is it all the same piece of wood or is the split on a join? [/quote] It appears to be the same piece of wood.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1443422012' post='2874451'] Is the split right through, Grangur? As paulnb57 says, it is cosmetic rather than structural. Not even sure it needs a pin or dowel... [/quote] It is possible to wiggle the wood at the nut and open the split slightly. That doesn't give enough space to get any glue in there though. It's not bad enough to make me think of breaking it open and 're-sticking it, because I can't be sure that the split will continue in a clean way. I think it's been there a long time. Maybe the answer is work on the rest of the bass and deal with it (or not) later. What I am tempted to do is put a MM pup in at the J position. I've got a PJ already, but never had a PMM.

Well, so far I've stripped down the bridge and tuners and cleaned them up. New pots are on order and I picked up a new jack socket from Marlin. So, things are under way. Better quality fret wire would be good. But that can wait for now.

This weekend I gained 2 basses. This is interesting and brings a new challenge or 2. Typical of the old Encores the TR adjustment is in the heel of the neck. The previous owner has stripped the body and it's open to new work. The problems are with the neck. I have a broken tuning head - it would be good if I can get hold of a new one to match the existing. There's also a rather iffy looking split in the headstock. Does anyone here have any experience in fixing a split like this? It's the line that goes from the string-tree to the nut. My thoughts are to drill in from the G-string side and put a pin in there. Is this bass worth bothering? Or simply split it out and sell the parts?

This has been an interesting weekend. I've sold one and got 2 new projects. This one seems the most straight-forward so far. Here are some initial pictures. The body is black and chipped, the bridge is mucky and strings are knack'd. But the maple of the neck is beautiful and the electrics are a sight to behold. I've had these connected and the pots actually work amazingly well considering how they look. The wiring is really thin and all the earth wires have no insulation. So any slight move and something could short out. I've connected a jack and fired her up and I really like the tone. It needs a new pick-guard, or for me to fix up the old one a bit as the holes for the old pots and jacks aren't big enough. The question I'm not too sure about is if I should try to preserve the electrics, or go for a significant improvement. I guess the answer there is the simple truth that this will never be a real "historical treasure". So I may as well hit the soldering iron and get the good stuff in place. Do I go for a re-spray, or stick with the "mojo" look? Not sure on that. I recon I'll stick with the existing pups - they give a good sound.

No shortage of genuine Mojo there. I'm watching, just to see what happens.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1443098992' post='2872184'] Steel wool may provoke ferrous filings, which could be difficult to get rid from a magnetic item. A green 'Scotchbright'-type of scourer maybe preferable..? (Other scouring pads are available...) [/quote] This. Or metal polish, chrome cleaner of some description. If you use wire-wool you'll never get rid of the bits of metal.

If, says he says, hearing damage is done by high db, will this open the world to folk having damage caused by high db exposure while the sound is at a low perceived volume? Surely high perceived volume, while at low db is the way to go? Or maybe I missed the point and the principal. But then the whole article is telling you about the idea, but not the science.

Aria Pro II https://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/aria-pro-ii-cardinal-series-csb-450-vintage-1981-bass-guitar-fretless-north-london-collection/1134818734

I'm up there soon. So I just agreed to buy from him.

Are you thinking of going for these? It looks like a good buy, providing the necks are ok and the bodies are routed correctly for the neck.