Grangur

I don't know where the OP is located, but he'd be welcome to try mine.

[quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1436518785' post='2818734'] This is what we are talking about re. Warwick (low B saddle, minus spring, to the right). The Thumb is similar: [/quote] That's it. The sides of the slot appear to be perpendicular. From reading the Warwick Forum it seems the 5 and 6 bridges were designed to be used only with tapered strings, which does leave your choices limited.

Just bought a MarkBass combo from Rhys. It was a good transaction. Good enjoyable coms and easy all the way. Many thanks Rhys. The combo's sounding good.

[quote name='zawinul' timestamp='1436521290' post='2818787'] Maybe a bit to dark for me, I want something twangy, tons of harmonics.... cello like [/quote] I use Chrome flats and easily get harmonics all up the neck. You would probably be able to get a more bright sound with ground-wounds or round-wounds. A feature of a fretless, any fretless, is the absence of frets meaning you don't get the hard surface of a fret causing a break in the string length. So, I doubt you'd get a very "twangy" sound from any fretless. Besides I wouldn't describe a cello as "twangy".

At last it's fitted; for now at least. I used a pair of Mole-grips and squidged it narrower. [quote name='3below' timestamp='1436516998' post='2818701'] With the old bridge I resorted to drilling the anchor hole to a wider diameter - a little bit at a time. It is such a design defect that it might be worth approaching Warwick and asking for a new tailpiece. You might get lucky. [/quote] In the long run I might go for widening the slot. WRT getting a new tail piece, they're a company who, if you want a new neck, insist you send the old one back, so I doubt they'd miss on the chance of getting cash for a tail piece. [quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1436517913' post='2818718'] Oh, and I think we should also mention the [b]intonation [/b]issue. Anyone managed to correctly intonate a low B string on a Warwick without removing the saddle screw to push the saddle all the way back? I had to do just that on my two Corvette Pros, on my Rockbass Fortress 5 and two other Rockbass Corvettes. Been told by experienced players that other makes have the same problem, sometimes even with intonation of the E string, so it's not just Warwick. Irritates me like hell. [/quote] Yes, that's my next job. It's not looking good so far, but I've got real paid work to do right now. Lets see later if I have any success on that. Somehow I don't hold out a lot of hope. At least with a Fender you can re-drill the holes for the bridge and move it back 5mm.

Thanks for the responses. Yes, this is the 2 piece bridge that you find on the typical German Thumb BO. On this particular breed of string there is no silk. So no joy there. I think the proper answer is to go for a tapered string. What I think I might do is see if filing the sides of the string, just gives me enough space to get it in there. I've already tried squeezing the string with a large pair of pliars. No success there, but when you think that it's machine-wound, round a solid hex-core, I don't suppose there's any slack in the winding for a human hand squeezing to make any room there. That said, my OP was last night after a few moments of frustration. I've now read the Warwick Forum and this is what they is recommended there. They also say there's nothing wrong with you taking a file to the bridge to make the slot wider. Warwick are now beginning to make 5 and 6 string bridges for non-tapered strings. So I could buy a new bridge. *Sigh* if only I'd known all this before cutting the other strings to length Thanks anyway guys

Please excuse the ignorance but is this the open back tuners, or the covered ones? I have a set of Fender/Squier style open ones available if that's what you want. But you'd have to check the screw spacing.

I've got a fretless LX Streamer. I'd say it sounds like dark chocolate... if that makes sense?

Hi there, Sorry if this has been asked 100 times over, but I've got a 5 string Warwick Thumb and I'm changing the strings. E-G are fine. The B string is slightly too fat to go through the guide slot in the bridge. What should I do? File the bridge? File the sides of the string (D'Addario round wound)? Thump it with a club hammer? Many thanks

There's a lot of variety in tones that folk here like. Do you like deep tones or a more metallic clank? It's important to get it right if you're going to keep the enthusiasm going to practice. As Dad says, if you tell us your location you might get invited to try some out.

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1436292349' post='2816833'] what is that heat you speak of? It seems you lot south of the border keep it all for yourselves, as usual [/quote] Seems you're adapting well to being a Scott: like moaning that we in the south have it easy, while you have free healthcare and education.

[quote name='bassbiscuits' timestamp='1436118129' post='2815128'] Yeah I get a slight clicking when I touch any metal part or the strings themselves, but it's not massively loud even when amped up. When I'm playing and touching the strings there's no problem at all. I guess I want to check if it's safe as I want to use the bass at a festival next weekend [/quote] I think you have answered it. Lift the bonnet and go round everything and check out the earth connections.

Thanks for the info. Certainly some interesting ideas. I don't expect to be recording much on it, except "me n my bass" stuff. I already use Libra Office for work. I save most files to MS Office format though, so it opens on an Android tablet. Good point about going for an SSD though. Many thanks

Feel free to use any of the pieces here: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/215336-learning-to-read-the-dots-sheet-music-to-learn-with/page__fromsearch__1 I got these together as pieces that allow you to pay a tune that will tell you if you're getting it right, because you recognise it.

When selling or buying on ebay I can see that once you click "Buy" that's it - you clicked, you bought. No backing out. It's all buying blind really. I've bought basses that way and found out that not all Fender's (for example) sound the same, even though the spec might appear to be the same. When buying on BC I expect to arrange to go and see a bass, try it and buy if I like it. If I don't like it, or I'm not sure I'll politely back out and wish the other guy all the best and leave. I'd expect exactly the same in the return. We all know that many basses can't simply be tried out in a store, because stores don't stock them. I expect that I can go and try a bass, as long as I genuinely set out honestly wanting to buy and not simply go "tyre kicking". If the seller has driven a fair way, to meet I'd expect to cover his/her costs if I've wasted their time. (Never happened yet). I may be wrong on all this, of course. I was once in a situation where I drove 120 miles to try a bass. We were given a cuppa and hot-cross buns! I tried 2 basses. One was the one I went to try. It was ok, but not for me. The other was really cool, but a good bit more than I could afford, but served to show that I could be far better suited to a bass other than the one I went there to try. I can understand the seller was disappointed, but I'd been the one who'd forked out for the fuel for going there, so I left empty handed. When I got home I had a PM informing me that generally everyone on BC are really good guys and a pleasure to meet. I was, I was told, not one of them. I was the scum of the earth and should hang my head in shame. So I guess not all folk here have the same outlook or expectations?

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1436200847' post='2815916'] I've had a Sony and two Dells. Aren't they all much of a muchness, last a few years and then pack up? [/quote] Yes, that's what I was trying to avoid. To make things even more interesting.I've already got a "Thinkpad" that belongs to my employer. So I could simply keep using that, but I'm getting twinges of guilt at wearing out their laptop. Mind you, it's lasted 3.5 years so far.

Hi there, I'm about to go on my hols and thinking of the good deals that might be going in duty free. So maybe this is the time to invest in a laptop? All I'm likely to want it for is a bit if home admin stuff and music. So software I'm likely to load would be: Office Chrome - browser Transcribe! iTunes Reaper Gimp - image software. That's about it... any suggestions about what laptops are good these days? (or not good?!) Thanks Edit: Maybe this should be in "off topic" ? If so, dear Mods, please move this. Many thanks

If you can't get rid of a rattle with all the things you've tried then the chances are that it's not frets that are rattling. I once had a Fender where, when I played the A string, the tuner for the G string buzzed. I'd recommend you pluck the E string and slowly inspect all over the bass listening to find where the buzz is coming from.

Agreed: as above. Have a nice day.

[quote name='KevB' timestamp='1436084932' post='2814752'] It's an odd and uncomfortable looking rant but for someone else to think it worth filming is equally weird. Is it for real?, all that arm waving on his way out looks a bit am-dram. [/quote] The fact that some of the rant is directed straight at the camera is, to me, a give away that the whole thing was actually for the purpose of filming it and getting attention and plays. Notice how we never got any sign of who he was ranting too. Nor did that person speak.