Grangur

Yes, but when it's painted Magnolia the tort could look the business!

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1431334280' post='2769994'] Those £13 pickguards are OK if you don't get tort (which aren't that bad in themselves anyway). Whatever you do don't get a black pearl though, that would look well tacky! And tort is actually illegal on black, as everyone knows. Parchment or cream is the way forward! Nice bass btw, and a bargain too by the look of it. [/quote] Many thanks. I'm truly made up to get the insight from a real style Guru. There was me thinking of going for Black Perl! Cream for the bass you say? Hmmm... I'm sure I've got an old tin of Magnolia somewhere here.....

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1431330496' post='2769935'] Nice one Rich. Good price too, especially given that you got a case and lead with it. Seeing that the p/g is damaged, you can take the opportunity to fit a 3 ply black one [/quote] On the PG the scratch pretty much only cuts through the plastic cover. I may change it though. For some reason it's always good to do something to personalise the bass. WD Music do some nice ones [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/precision-bass-mexican-standard----black-abalone-1718-p.asp"]http://www.wdmusic.c...lone-1718-p.asp[/url] But £56 each!? Having only bought one in the past; from Ebay for a Squier, some of the ones for Fenders seem amazing high prices for what they are. Am I a cheap-skate? (Don't answer that) Is there so much difference between a £50 PG and this?: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/191149735203?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...ff14=108&ff19=0[/url]

Hi all, I picked this up on Gumtree. I actually was more interested in an Ibanez BTB 6 string he was selling for £199. That was gone, but he asked if I wanted a Fender P. Coincidentally I'd been looking for a P for a while. I've got a spare set of SD Quarter-pounders sitting about and it would be good to put them to some use.. Yeah, I know it's an odd way around, but that's how it goes. Anyway, the long-suffering Mrs G and I hit the road to go and take a look at this bass. I'd already talked him down to £275 and it was looking good. We got there with a Roland Cube in hand and tried it out. The strings were a mis-matched set. Some with rust and as dead a those used by James Jamerson, but to my ears the sound was cool, even through the treble of the Cube. It came with a spare long lead and a Gator case.. all looking good. I don't know much about Fenders I know this is a MIM Standard P. It also has a curious stud on the headstock that looks like it's from the year of Fender's 60th anniversary. But I guess others here will know more about that. It also has a silver Fender logo on the front. As you'll see I've fitted new strings; a set of Elixir Heavys, bought in error, but I'm surprisingly happy with them. And in the better light at home I found the pickgard doesn't have the remains of stickers on it, as I'd thought. It's actually where the original plastic is still in place. This is good, because this tells me it has nickel silver frets, now polished up to shine.... ... and shielded electrics. I need to find a Fender knob for the volume and it has one scratch near the tone control, across the PG and slightly onto the body. That's the only real "ding" I can find. Lake Placid Blue would have been an improvement IMHO, but I'm well pleased with the new addition to the stable. So it's been a good weekend. If anyone can tell me anymore about it I'm interested to learn. Oh, and the SD Q-pounders are STILL looking for a new home! I really don't see any point in changing the already great sound.

[quote name='operative451' timestamp='1431272984' post='2769488'] Emery boards - the disposable nail file types! That's what i've always used, they're designed to give a smooth finish and they're cheap... [/quote]... and they file at the sides of the slot; not so much at the bottom, which is just what you need.

Hey! Pleased it's all worked out well.

[quote name='Highfox' timestamp='1431258515' post='2769277'] I'm not sure how relevant this might be to you, but in near on 40 years of me playing bass other than breaking a string I have never had to revert to my back-up! Maybe I have just been lucky? I'd keep both P's Lozz and not worry about trying to match the sounds too much, the chances of it being that critical are rather minimal imo. [/quote] True, if you had to swap bass at a gig the only person in the room who'd cringe at the change of tone is you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPlF--fXQ9k

Sell your back and get an upgraded version that allows you to keep both. Failing that sell the '78 if you have to sell one. You know your back will thank you for it. After all, you like the playability and sound of the 2010 US.

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1431255116' post='2769197'] Yup, listen to this man. [/quote] Thank you. I take that as a real compliment. It looks like some folk are giving good advice now. I like the one about candle wax on the thread. [quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1431255258' post='2769200'] Also, when screwing back the neck, I like to thread the screws through a candle first, to allow the wax to just slightly lubricate the thread. The screws then follow the threaded hole a little more easily. Whatever you do, be gentle, you don't want to enlarge the hole. [/quote]

This one's good too for use in the house anyway. Great value, seems well built and sturdy. https://www.thomann.de/gb/clifton_stand_f_eor_acoustic_guitar.htm

What a great opportunity for you to learn! This is a nice easy job. You can probably get a new socket from Maplin and have it installed by tonight. Your bass probably has a pick guard or a cover on the back. Remove this and take pics of the socket and post them here. What Yamaha bass do you have?

When you are securing the neck to the body make sure that the screws pass through the body without catching. They should be a tight fit but the thread should not catch. If the screws do catch on the body this can cause you to create a gap between the neck and body because the screws can be screwed tight up to the end in the body wood, but only part way into the neck wood. The resulting gap is then like a shim.

Linseed oil or Danish oil. These give a good non-sticky finish. I've never used Tru-oil, but doesn't that leave a high gloss finish? I know I saw a vid on using it to get a good shine.

I have to agree with Dad. There's a lot of talk here about shims. But if the bass didn't need a shim with paint, then it shouldn't need one now. I'd be happy to take a look if I lived in the area.

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1430855170' post='2765335'] Before you do that give John Williams at Noise Works in Cov a shout. He's building my TBird and has fixed a few necks in this parish. He also does warranty work for Bass Gear and replaced the nut on my US Spector. I bet he's got some magic and he seems keenly priced. http://guitarsandbasses.co.uk/ [/quote] Or I might just do that too

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1431123629' post='2768127'] Note you have a 24 fret neck, I don't think a lot of fender necks are. [/quote] You make a good point. If I were to slice off the finger board at the first fretting I wonder if I would gain any thing? Like being able to take the TR out? Keeping it in perspective, I paid very little for the bass.

If it was alright before, then it should be OK now. My guess is the neck isn't seated in the pocket correctly. If the paint was seriously thick, then you could use a card shim under the bridge. But we must be talking about 5-7mm of paint!! Sorry, I don't buy that.

Hey!! Excellent news. It's good to know that it all worked out well for you.

Not that I'm looking for a bass, but at the risk of asking a stoopid question what is wrong with this?

The white block things are plugs and socket connections. Surely you simply need to release the plugs from the old boards and connect to the new board? Or are we talking about the connection between the new board and the old pot? I know you can buy the assembly complete, but they charge a bomb for that.

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1430855170' post='2765335'] Before you do that give John Williams at Noise Works in Cov a shout. He's building my TBird and has fixed a few necks in this parish. He also does warranty work for Bass Gear and replaced the nut on my US Spector. I bet he's got some magic and he seems keenly priced. [url="http://guitarsandbasses.co.uk/"]http://guitarsandbasses.co.uk/[/url] [/quote] Many thanks