Grangur

When you say "[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]that doesn't ruin the body or the neck." Do you mean you want to be able to peel the cards off again and the paint finish still be as good as new?[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]IMHO I would have thought the best end result would be got by sticking the cards on the body and giving the whole thing a really thick coat of lacquer, but this would wreck the original paint finish.[/font][/color]

After a long break, I've done another tune for the list: [url="https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=88014765C749B87!347&authkey=!AJq7elXKOMBsXlk&ithint=file%2cpdf"]Autumn Leaves[/url][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3] - This is the score of the tune, not the bass line. To hear what this is meant to sound like, [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsp5OASh7bg"]click here[/url] and listen from 0.50 onwards.[/size][/font][/color]

If it's fake the attention to detail is good; getting the F on the neck plate and the tuners. Also, having the serial number on the headstock. I'm convinced, but I'm no expert though. Edit: E310864, according to the Fender site, would indicate 1983-85 http://www2.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/u-s-instruments-product-dating/

This bass is starting at £200 with £50 postage. This guy's on another planet. You can buy a fully working MiM for little more if you look around. I had a wishbass with no truss rod. Anything else, like this, is all a risk. I don't think I'd go for it at this price without knowing more. If it was 75 posted I'd take a punt. Sorry, for whittering

[quote name='grandad' timestamp='1424086493' post='2692334'] [sup][sup][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=4][size=5]I'm afraid the Beatles basslines I learned from listening to the records oftened turn to be not what PM played though I was sure I'd heard it correctly after numerous playbacks often on headphones at various levels of volume to make sure I had.[/size][/size][/font][/sup][/sup] [sup][sup][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=4][size=5]With the muscle memory firmly in place I find it difficult to change them so, they fit and nobody except another bass player would probably tell the difference. [/size][/size][/font][/sup][/sup] [/quote] Please excuse my ignorance here; assuming your transcription isn't a million miles from what you heard on the records, what leads you to thinking it's not what PM played? Or do you mean it's not what he played when he was seen to play it live? Has anyone here tried the[url="http://www.biblio.com/book/beatles-bass-book-transcribed-joff-jones/d/533321188"] Beatles Bass book[/url] ? I've got one and find the score might be right, but there's no reason for bashing up and down the neck in the way the TABs would have you doing it.

[quote name='Lw.' timestamp='1423655536' post='2687438'] I think just the fact they say Germany on them over any of the Asian countries will be a big selling point - same as USA/Mexican Fenders. Am I imagining things or is/was there talk of being able to put "Made in Germany" on a product that's made somewhere else so long as a certain % comes from inside the EU? ie Send a load of German wood & electronics to Asia to be put together & you can still call it German? I may have completely dreamed that up but I'm sure I saw it somewhere. There's talk on the Warwick forums of the GPS basses not having bell brass frets which would be a shame as that used to be one of Warwicks selling points (though I don't know if it actually makes a difference). On the neck front (of the older basses); you can't really blame Warwick for moving away from Wenge for a while considering the lengths they would have had to go to in order to get some, I've been very happy with the sound & feel Ovangkol neck, sure it's not quite as attractive as Wenge but it's still nicer than Maple for this kind of bass. The shape from the 00's was always more of a lopsided D than other brands & feels good once you get used to it. The only people I've known personally to struggle with it was people that play with their thumb wrapped around the side of the neck rather than in the middle of the back. [/quote] This will be a trade thing generally. It won't be about instruments alone. I doubt that wood that has passed through German hands ( I doubt it's German grown wood) would qualify it to be a German product if it's crafted, shaped and assembled in the East. Someone posted about the nut falling apart when the strings were removed. I have to agree there. The plastic nuts weren't a good move. I've replaced all of mine with brass Just-a-nut IIIs. It really does make a better sound and sustain. Not cheap at about £50 a throw, but worth doing.

+1 to all of the above. I'm also a member of the Scotts Bass Lessons Academy. It's great value and the lessons in the academy are FAR better than the old, publicly available content from Scott. Good luck

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1423641713' post='2687248'] Where would something like this have fitted into the Warwick line-up? (Custom Shop, Pro Series). I realise that this is from 2007, and that the past is a foreign country and they do things different there. But, I'm just curious. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warwick-Corvette-NT-LTD-2007-AAAA-Koa-Top-4-string-Electric-bass-right-handed-/221685213883?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item339d77eabb Would that have been a custom shop bass in its day? Or was the range different back then? (Aside: I do know that this is being sold by a basschatter, I apologise for not feeling that I can justify spending that much on a bass. [/quote] That looks great value to me and I'd say that's a hight level bass. Due to the date Musicavenger would call that a cr*p bass, but I beg to differ. I've got 3 basses from that era. I've stil yet to hear anyone who says that qualify what's wrong with them. I've heard idiots tell me they've all got fat necks, but my 3 don't.

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' timestamp='1423498330' post='2685540'] You can also thread them through in reverse - feed them into the body at the bridge, and keep going until the end is wtthin reach at the sound hole. Tie a knot in the string and pull it back through again until the knot is under the bridge. David [/quote] Well, that certainly beats hanging about outside an infants school trying to befriend a young stranger.

Don't they knot inside the body, then pass up through the bridge, using the sound-box hole for access?

Great buy there. I've been thinking about one of these myself. Nice bass. Thanks for posting

I hate to disagree, but the wire to the jack looks like a screened cable with the screen core going to the earth of the jack and the core going to the other terminal of the jack. If this is the case Howie is, regrettably mistaken. Can you take a better quality pic of the electrics? That might help.

Here's another http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_beatbass_vs_vintage_se_b_stock.htm

I just saw this and thought it'd be good for someone at around the £100 mark http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_tb_70vs_b_stock.htm

Nice one. We, the Missus and I liked that. Interesting tone. Is that the Ibby fretless?

Do you enjoy the excitement of "flying by the seat of your pants" or dou you like stability? Are you good at handling anything that might come?

ThE "on is off" isn't totally daft is you think from the player's perspective you are pulling the switches towards you,which is what you do to switch things "on". The pots being reversed I don't get at all.

PCB : Printed Circuit Board I had a similar problem with a MarkBass amp. Mine was a poor Speakon socket. Any poor connection can cause heat, which will cause the thermal cut_out to do its job. Pleased you sorted it.