Grangur

I sold a neck and a small classical guitar to Rich. He's a really nice guy. Very trustworthy. One of the best! Many thanks Rich

Yep, I can agree with you there.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1392071008' post='2364453'] I'm not sure where the argy-bargy is coming from mate as I was only trying to help with your post. The fact of the matter is that you can take the placement measurements from the neck/frets.... and I do. And a genuine MM scratchplate (far from being purely decoration, Rich) is the ideal starting point to make a template from. You have intimated that you may not have made the best job of yours - if there's a bit of wiggle room, a MM pg will also let you perfectly correct any misalignment you may have had by doing it by eye. [/quote] I don't think we're really disagreeing too much here, Rich. If you have a genuine MM pick guard it will give you a template for the ideal position for the pup in relation to the frets on the neck, providing you measure from the same fret; i.e. the 12th/20th etc. But if you position a MM pup routing by measuring the position from the bottom of the pickguard on MM guard and apply that same spacing to create the position in a Fender guard I doubt it will be the same distance from the frets/bridge. I may be wrong. If you wanted to put a MM pup on a Warwick - as seen above, an you use a MM guard as a template to give the spacing from the bottom of the neck I think it will also be wrong. But again I'm open to being corrected. My understanding is the things that affect the sound in a real way is the length of the strings and the position of the pup(s) in relation to the strings. If is pickguard isn't there as decoration and something to cover over the cable routing, then should I get guards for my Warwick and the other 2 bases I have that don't have one?

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Why not mail [color=#323232]Si600. He lives in Northampton. He could check the bass and watch you play and you might get a bit closer to the answer.[/color][/font][/size] [color=#323232][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]... If Simon doesn't mind, that is.[/font][/color]

It's not such an amazing bargain. It only costs £78 for a full working one. [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_mb222t.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...nton_mb222t.htm[/url] So you may as well pay the extra 40 and have a "good" neck, body and electrics. Edit: you could always order a set of Seymour Duncans in the same order

[quote name='AngelLaHash' timestamp='1392049031' post='2364030'] I hear the MM's are a bit shorter... [/quote] Yes the instrument's overall length may be shorter, but it's the distance from the nut to the saddles of the bridge that matters. If you look at your diagram, they're all the same. The Musicman has the bridge closer to the back of the body. [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1392051783' post='2364086'] Why not? [/quote] Because the pick-guard is only decoration. It has no effect on the musical function of the instrument.

To my ears a Warwick makes a totally different tone to a Musicman. My perception is the Warwick gives a deeper growl and the Musicman I tried in a shop gave a more electronic/metalic, zingy sound. But that's just me. Edit: that said. I have a Wishbass with a Musicman-style Kent Armstrong pup in it, and that gives the deepest bark/growl of any of my bases. You should buy the one you like the sound of most; which is something nobody here can tell you. Have you played them both?

You're only here once. You can spend too many years of your life trying to make a bad situation into a good one, but unless the rest of the band see a problem nothing will change. You did the right thing. Now you're free to make your next project happen. Go for it!

As a learner it's really easy to find you play almost everything on the first 5-7 frets. I think what your teacher is doing is to try to get you comfortable in breaking that barrier and have you feel comfortable in the higher section of the neck. I say go with the teacher, he may lack something in the communication of his objectives, but he's not crazy. Good luck

Looking cool. What tools do you use for the shaping? I've got similar job to do on one. I'm new to doing this but I'm planning on using a Dremel with a sanding drum bit.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1391963209' post='2363025'] All taken from my trusty Fender handbook peoples. [/quote] Yeah, yeah, yeah. You need to get out more.

It's probably due to a bad angle in your wrist. Take a look at these 2 vids [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIYuqTsUlyM[/media] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGZikYZsyNc[/media] Thanks for posting this. I've just found I have the problem Dave Marks describes - tingles in the arm in the morning.

"It takes all sorts to make a world". Maybe you need more variety in your life than the other, shallow folk in the band? Maybe you're still looking for "that sound"? I've got 4 basses and one I'm still building. AND I'm not even in a band (work commitments prevent it) I love to have different sounds, the variety keeps me going. Maybe one day I'll hit on one bass and desert the others, but it won't be this week. Well, I doubt it anyway.

If you ever find yourself up near Bishops Stortford, you can drop in and try 3 out for size. I'm in the process of building a fretless twin to the P-bass. Other than that I've an ESP Ltd 5 string and the Wishbass. So you'd get to try lined and unlined. Edit: Btw, I'd never think of de-fretting the SS1. I love fretless, but I love that bass too.

Really good. Great pro video.

I've been playing this bass a few times and it's growing on me. I don't see it as a bass for playing down the "Dog & Duck", but as I don't play there, or anywhere else for that matter as I'm a noob and not very good. The other night I did play it on the strap. It weighs 9lb and after 2 hours of loving it I took it off only to find I've slipped a disc in my shoulders. As a result I've not played anything much in the past few days, but I did pick the Wishbass up today and tried out recording on Reaper for the first time. So guys here you are, warts and all, here's an embarrassing clip to give you a sneak into the sound of the bass. It's with the tone cranked wide open and plugged straight into the Focusrite. https://soundcloud.com/grangur/wishbass-test As a result of the shoulders I'm taking a revision on the Wishbass. It's not exactly over heavy, but I've come to the conclusion it's pulling my shoulders forward too much. So I think it's going under the Dremel to under-go some reshaping. The re-shape will include some shaving of the centre of the "saddle" part of the top, and some shaving of the area under the neck near the lower horn. In the meantime I'll be recording some more and will try to get a better recording. Cheers Rich

+1 to the above. Don't change the Warwick before you KNOW you like fretless that much that you won't ever want to go back.

I had a similar clicking/buzz once on a bass. When I played the "A" string it happened. What it turned out to be was a loose clover-leaf in the post of the tuning head on the G string. I know yours wont be a clover-leaf, cos Ibby don't use them. But don't limit your search to the D string. It can be the frequency of the vibration of the D string is just right to make something else rattle.