Grangur

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1388934064' post='2327758'] ouch. was it the nut or the rod that's gone. Apparently the nut is replaceable whereas the rod is harder.... remember it's japanese so therefore metric screw threads..... [/quote] In any case he needs to take it back and make it Fender's problem. He should demand a good replacement bass. When making a bass Fender have a massive stack of necks and an equally massive supply of bodies. All should be virtually identical. I can't believe they can't find a body and neck that work well together without bodging it. If one neck doesn't work, they should change the neck. It's shockingly bad they should let a bass go out needing a shim from day 1.

Take it back to where you bought it and play naive. Let's be honest; a shim is a "work-a-round" or "bodge" to make up for the manufacturer routing the pocket too deep for the neck or at the wrong angle, so not allowing you to otherwise get good action. What you have is a bad bass. Your approach needs to be that you were unable to adjust it in accordance with the makers instructions and it's not "fit for purpose" as described in the "Sale of Goods Act". Good luck.

Mel, have you looked at the number of folk following this? They all care about you and your health. You KNOW you're worth it!! Go make that call now.

[quote name='dave_bass5' timestamp='1388753952' post='2325575'] Not being funny but have you looked in to any of the many Squier threads on here yet? I'd have though there was already more than enough info about the current Squier's on here already to give you the answer you are looking for. My opinion, for what its worth is these are more than just back up/home basses. Ive gigged Squier's exclusively for the past 4 year now and have no intention of spending any more than these cost on a bass in the future. I just don't see the need. [/quote] +1 For £150 can you go far wrong? I've never heard of anyone saying a Squire was too heavy. You can buy replacements for any part of it you don't like. You can change the tone if you don't like it by replacing pups, strings etc. As long as the neck is solid in the pocket and the neck has no buzzes you can't get rid of with a screwdriver or allen key, what's to go wrong?

I got that far... Mel, if this turns out to be progressive, what are you going to do when you're finding the hand has no sense of feeling and at all affected and its starting up the arm? Go see a doctor and make a nuisance of yourself. If you can't get any joy, go see a good Osteopath, but make sure they're a specialist in all skeleto-muscular problems. I know it might cost you about £50 a time, but maybe you can get an initial consultation for free if it's to establish if they can help you. But the Osteopath may be able to put pressure on the doctor to DO something about fixing it. Buying another bass is not "doing" something about it.

Warwick Corvette fretless: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/219167-warwick-corvette-lined-fretless-nirvana-black-l519-offers-and-trades-considered/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/219167-warwick-corvette-lined-fretless-nirvana-black-l519-offers-and-trades-considered/[/url]

[quote name='razze06' timestamp='1388659776' post='2324401'] I quite liked the look and feel of this VM jazz i've seen in a shop, but the sound might be a little too harsh for me. So I was going to leave it, as sound is what matters the most to me. Then I remembered I had these pups in the house, so i started wondering if they could have a positive effect on the sound of that VM jazz. Before I shell out the money to get the bass and start modifying it, i wanted to see if anyone has done the same before, and what their experience was. Essentially, I wanted to know if that is technically possible (seems to be), and whether the bass would end up sounding more like a warwick in "wrong" body and neck, or if some of the characteristics of the original jazz would be retained. I guess this last question won't be answered unless I try it for myself [/quote] The wood used in the body and neck construction will undoubtedly have some effect in the tone of the bass, or otherwise Warwick would also make their basses differently. I have a Warwick - see avatar I love it's deeper, warmer, growl. I also have a Squier P-bass, on which I've changed the pups and bridge etc., but IMHO the tone of the P-bass is still too harsh. I've got Rotosound steel strings on there and will change them to nickels soon, and maybe to flats - both will make it smoother in tone. I keep it because it's probably worth more to me as a spare, throw-about bass than the money I'd recover from it. It's also good to have a bass on which you can try certain things out on the elects, without any worries. As you say though, you won't know until you try. If you get the bass at a good price, you may not lose too much if you later want to move it on.

Today some more goodies arrived! Ferrules for the through-body stringing. Through-stringing is a standard feature of the Wishbass. It appeared to me that the studs on the ends of the strings could dig into the wood in the holes, so I put a stop to this with using ferrules. The instructions well you to use an 8mm drill for this. I did this, but if I did it again I think I'd find a slightly bigger bit. 8.5 or 9mm could have been better, or some imperial sized thing along those lines. Also, as you can see the pots and knobs came too... with a free gift of a pick!! WOW, my cup runneth over!! All I need now is to learn to play with a pick. I've also been shaving the head-stock some more too. The shape wasn't very big on symmetry and the edges sharp, so these have been planed and shaped. Well we're getting there. All I'm waiting for now is the cylinder jack socket for mounting through the edge, then I'll have everything for the electrics. Then next week I'll be down in Kent. I'll go to wood place there and get the ebony for the nut and bridge. (And look into the cost/availability of a purpleheart FB; that's probably "Wishbass 1314 Phase II" but don't tell Mrs G!!) Tonight I'll probably solder the elects together, or strip down the Christmas tree.. wait for the next exciting episode of Wishbass 1314 to find out!!

Well a couple of days have gone by and I've mainly been waiting for ordered goodies to get here. In the meantime I've been sanding planing and scraping to get the finish and shaping better. The observant may have noticed a pregnant bulge on the bottom/back end of the bass where the strap button goes. I've re-shaped this some more. I've also been working on the "lobe" that goes down the top edge of the neck. It had some movement in the wood that meant that some of the wood was flaking a bit. I could tell this by taping the wood and where the surrounding wood was solid, some sections sounded with a higher pitched "ticking" noise. I dealt with this wish some planing, getting rid of the looser flaky parts, then I got a bristle brush and pva glue and wiggled it into any visible cracks in the wood grain. After leaving this to dry I sanded it some more. Sorting the above flaky bit I've reduced the thickness of the lobe from the rear. For the sake of some more balance and to make this look more intentional, I've also taken some shavings off of the front. Most basses also have a thinner body at the top edge, where the forearm rests; taking off the harsh edge from cutting in as you play. So I've shaped mine too, planing a few mil from the front. I've not gone too mad as I can always take more off later if I want. New Years Eve and one item arrived; the neck sanding block!! Wow!! good stuff! The one I ordered is 20" radius. Almost straight away I cracked on, sanding the neck with course paper to start and finished with fine. I've never done this before, but I guessed that to get the neck good and even I needed to do long, strokes the full length of the neck. It seemed to work and the neck now seems pretty straight and consistent in the curve. The block was Suppiled by Brian Watson, a luthier in Halifax. He's a site - www.watsonbasses.co.uk. His basses look good. I like the touch of the LED that warns you that the battery is going flat.. So far I've been using mostly 80 grain sandpaper - quite course. At this point I've now got the bass down to the sort of shape I want and it's getting more solid. At this point I then went over the bass with medium paper - 150grit.. It's beginning to feel smooth.

I fully agree about shaving the neck. It's not to noticeable. But I think the tension on the strings is worth investigating. Have you tried Ibanez support?

Please don't think any of the above means I doubt what Graham says, but if I knew it had a problemd I'd have fixed it, or sold it as faulty.

If it's fatter in the middle than at the pocket, then you can shave the middle thinner; solving that issue. I can't see how this would cause the problem you're having. I was the previous owner. I never had/experienced the problem and I bought it from my bass teacher. He'd never seen it either, but neither of us gigged it. It stayed in the house in a stable temperature. What I did find is in my opinion it had no sustain. I had it strung B-G and the G was a real "plink" tone. I just thought "it's not to my taste". But this does make me think that the strings may be too tight. Try measuring the scale length. If it's longer than 34" maybe it needs the bridge moving. I can't see how this could be wrong from the factory, but if they make different types of GWB with different bodies/ necks they could be a mis-match.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1388438551' post='2322082'] Oh sure. I paid £100 for the Jazz I've strung with flats, and I paid under £200 for the P bass I've got strung with rounds. [/quote] What's the best quality bass you have ever put flats on?

[quote name='Grissle' timestamp='1388444226' post='2322165'] If its active look for a trim pot in the circuitry. Or maybe the other bass is just overly hot? Just more to think about. [/quote] This is passive. Stupid question here but how does a bass become hot? How can he make this s one hotter to be the same?

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1388420814' post='2321785'] It's worth trying a new wiring kit before lashing out on new pups, IYWMO [/quote]+1 There's not much in a pup to go wrong. I'd look for an answer in the set-up or dirt etc; as above

Is the string to pup distance similar on both basses?

[quote name='razze06' timestamp='1388404871' post='2321537'] Not really thinking of doing it as a financially sound move, I tend to believe that basses sell best if left unmolested. Modifying one for personal use, that's ok by me! What I meant is, I need to decide whether to buy the squier jazz or not! [/quote] What's your reason for asking? What could be bad about it? What worries you?

You don't have to take it all back to the primer, just do the bits needed. Edit; or make it roadworn?

Agreeing with all above... We don't know the back-story. Maybe the seller has been told by siblings to sell it to recover the money so they get their share-out. It's possible the the asking price is the amount the seller is prepared to buy it at. Actually, he may be better to put it up for 99p and use a reserve. Then if it only reaches 1,500, then that't the price he pays..... we don't know.

If you're thinking of it being a good move financially, then that's something else. I've got a Squier P. I bought it for £100, stripped it, sprayed it. Fitted new tuners, bridge, pups, pick-guard and pots etc. I've priced it up and I recon the whole thing cost me £300. If I were to sell it and wanted my money back, I believe I'd need to strip it and sell it as a basic p-bass and sell the parts separately. The bottom line is it still says "Squier" on the headstock. I might get more if a made it a fake Fender, but that would go against my principles. It's a great sounding bass btw!!

I think you mean "MEC". I'm happy with the MECs on my Warwick. I'd go for it, if they fit as a straight swap you've got nothing to lose.

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1388269525' post='2320336'] Looking good! Yup, you get woodworm holes in Wishbass wood. He uses reclaimed and found wood for that authentic rustic patina! Have you checked the Wishbass re-fins at Dave's Bass Place? [url="http://www.davesbassplace.com/DavesBassPlace/Refinishing.html"]http://www.davesbass...efinishing.html[/url] [/quote] I've seen him on Youtube, but not been to the web site before. Thanks for that. Reading what he says I'm probably on track Seeing what he's done on "The Claw" he's used a humbucker pup in series/parallel/split-mode. I've not seen a diagram for all of that. So I've started looking. Does anyone have one by any chance, please? Or does anyone have any views on split mode Vs series/parallel ?

Imho Mel, you're too young to be resigning your self to accepting bits of your body stopping working. You need to find a doc who can and will help. The trouble is tbey have budgets and they try to avoid spending it.

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1388312368' post='2320571'] The [url="https://www.facebook.com/StashBassGuitar"]Stash Stainless Bass Guitar[/url] is totally doing it for me. [/quote] You mean this? [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAVxqwiyoQo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAVxqwiyoQo[/url] Nah... sorry, not for me. Not a single Wishbass in the line up though. Surprising.