Grangur

That's why I suggested the Firebird. It's a hand wound guitar pup. He does neck, bridge an mid versions and will custom wind if you're looking for a specific sound. But as I don't even deserve a response don't know why I'm bothering.

There are some folk who live in terror of their world exploding if the truss rod setting is changed.

Pleased to hear it's come to some resolution. Legally, as I understand it, if you were a business, you would be assumed to have good knowledge on the matter of what you sell. As a private individual, anyone buying from you is in a situation of "buyer beware". So the bottom line is you, the seller are not liable. They bought it. They probably sold it and now they're looking to you to hold their responsibility, as if you were a professional supplier to a business.

How about a JL Firebird? http://jlguitars.eu/shop/index.php?id_category=14&controller=category&id_lang=4

To take off nibs, use the back of the sand paper.

That is certainly a serious red colour. You'll be sure to get noticed with that. Looking good.

That's what I'd do; just tuck it to one side, so it won't touch anything.

I did once see: "Fender Roadworn bass for sale. Mint condition..." I did laugh.

Supported. Good luck guys in getting the scammer nailed to the wall.

The wires you mention that have another wire within them are screened wires. This is where the signal wire (often called the "Hot" wire) is surrounded by a netting of wire strands, and then all encased in another sleeve. These are generally used for wiring to the pups or the jack socket. The main core is the hot wire, the screen is used as earth. The screen also acts to reduce interference in the signal. It does sound like the bridge and tail are earthed. So, unless something isn't working, I wouldn't worry about the stray wire. The only other thing I can think of is, if the cover to the compartment is metal, or foil lined, it could be intended to link to the cover.

Hi @Golats, You're no idiot. Lack of knowledge isn't lack of intelligence... I hope. Anyway... Can you please check if you have a black wire going from the back of one of the pots going to a hole in the body in the general direction of the bridge? Also, in the pics, above the same volume pot you're talking about, there appears to be a stray black wire with a bobble 9f some sort on the end? What is that?

Have to endorse @SpondonBassed here. In sending wood, I don't consider anything less than 800 as fine. I often use 1500. You may find that stain raises the grain. So the finer you go the better.

Sell the Jazz. The P and the Warwick are earning for you. So, the Jazz is the weakest link

hey @thebigyin for theory, check out http://www.studybass.com . It's free and there is some really useful info there. FOC too!

So, as you say, the board is almost certainly painted box-wood or something. Forget all I said about making a radius block, because if you start rubbing you'll probably be in for re-painting the whole neck, masking the brown wood, etc, etc. So, I'd use epoxy and simply file carefully with a fine-grain nail file. Good luck to the young Miss 998. We wish her well on her bass journey.

Have you asked your son what he wants? Different strokes for different folks. If he's the analytical type and wants to know theory, then www.studybass.com is good. Also a 14day trial on www.Scottsbasslessons.com would be good. If hes not into theory, encourage him to get into a band with mates, or help him to search for Tabs online, or maybe leave him to find his own way. Right now he's developing his ear for music which is great.

Agreed, its easy to make holes bigger in the scratch plate. Making a neat job of the body rout could be a different story.

Yes, but as @Count Bassy says, when you've removed the glue you then have to deal with the reason why the previous owner saw fit to "fix" it with epoxy.

I'm not aware of anywhere, but I'm a novice on upright. I know nothing at all in fact.

Hi @BigRedX what I have noticed is the basses with maple necks seem to have a more crisp response than the wenge neck basses. That said, the maple necks are made of multiple sections and tend to be through-neck construction. So, I have to admit the difference between these could be construction and not the wood...

I'm a lifetime member of Scott's Bass Academy. Yes, some of the people in the forum ("Campus" as they call it) are a PITA. Much of the chat is all very... well... But I don't regret having open access to an incredible and growing number of lessons FAR out stripping ANYTHING on Youtube. The SBL paid-for lessons are much better than any Scott ever gave for free. You also have opportunity, once a month (?) to be at a live video-chat session with guest speakers, who are often teachers of bass at the Berkeley School of Music. No, no regrets here. Go grab a 14-day trial membership and try it for yourself. You have nothing to lose. If you don't like it Scott WILL give you your money back. https://scottsbasslessons.com/ IIRC the first year was about £100. Topping up, at the 12 month stage, to "LIfetime" was another £200. Compare that to 1-to-1 lessons with a mediocre teacher at £26 an hour? 10 lessons inc travel costs?

On a cheap upright I'd go the epoxy route. @jebroad, would this really be ebony on a cheap flea market upright? What I would do, if I were you, before starting is get a lump of wood and and paper and make a radiused sanding block. To do this, remove the strings and stick a sheet of glasspaper to the neck. Tear the sheet in half and join the 2 halves to make a long strip using strong, but thin tape on the back,. Then stick the sandpaper to the neck, rough side up, using something like double-sided tape or Pritstick - any glue that will come off easy. When you've done this, get the wood block and rub it up and down the neck covered in glasspaper. This will make a radius block of the same curvature as the neck radius. So, when youve done this, you can use this block to sand the epoxy to the same radius as the natural neck shape. (Hey! 4700 posts!!)

I had a Warwick with a twisted neck and wrecked TR. I took it to a luthier who removed the fretboard, un-twisted the neck, replaced the truss rod (I supplied this), and refitted it all. Total cost £100. So don't despair, it's not too expensive if it does go to the worst. Let me know if you'd like luthier's details.

Speaking as someone with a fist-full of Warwicks ("The Sound of Wood"... etc, etc) They all have different wood and the do all sound different. There are a few similarities in tone I've noticed that would indicate that tonewood can have a small influence. All that said, IMHO the main affecting things are: Fingers/attitude, amplification, pickups, set-up, strings age, strings type, bridge, nut (open notes only), neck-wood, body-wood.

The volume from the split-coil pickup on any PJ is massively bigger than the J pickup. I have also changed the split-coil on mine. There is so little copper on the Squier pickups they hardly weigh anything. So I changed for a Jess Loureireo hand-wound Classic P. It's a fantastic improvement.