Grangur

The tuners alone are worth £10. Go for it. All you need is some old strings to test it out. We look forward to seeing the report with recordings after.

I've got a Roland 100w cube. I never have the volume above 5/10 ar home. The EQ is good too. I'd say its worth looking at the 120 or the 60w.

All the working and retired folk in the room are all taxpayers, so we're really only talking about contributions from children and the unemployed. (Prisoners being the other category, but I doubt many were there.) So my guess is the funds do all come from taxpayers. But I doubt HMRC would like to see it that way. So, ahem, it's really generous of you Johnnyboy.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1384174829' post='2273497'] Like a low-budget Gus... I'd have been tempted to bid if it hadn't been a 4-stringer. [/quote] +1 and if I believed it has a truss rod, and if the pup was routed in and mounted right, and if it had a bridge and I didn't suspect the reason there's no strings is cos the string tension would make it bow like you could use it for firing arrows etc

Interesting concept. Poor execution though. IMHO

If I were you, and if you want a truely invisible repair, I'd take it to a spray shop. A luthier may be great an routing the neck pocket and that sort of stuff, but each to their own. I recon most luthiers would get a pro-finisher to do it. Ask at a car spray shop. It will, of course be cheaper if you strip the body down to give to them. They may also tell you a complete respray is cheaper than a spot repair.

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1384102242' post='2272760'] Someone talking sense on Basschat . How refreshing. Is that [i]really [/i]what we want , though? [/quote] Oppps Sorry!!!

FWIW I find it funny when folk try to draw a parallel between the maturing of a violin / cello / double-bass and the maturing of a Fender, or any other electric bass. There is no comparison - that's an undeniable scientific fact. The violin and all other instruments constructed using a sound-box of wood, create their sound by the strings vibrating the wood of the sound box. The box is manufactured to work through the wood being under stress and vibrating to create the sound. The character of the vibration will change over the many years through drying out, penetration of beeswax, or other substances and the vibration of use. This can be scientifically proven by analysis of the wood. The wood in the electric guitar or bass might vibrate and give some small character to the sound, but the sound is formed almost exclusively in the electronic components. Yes, the cloth and resin found in the old pickups may well have changed over the 50 years that an old bass has been in use, but there's no assurance that these materials wont fail and need replacing in another 50 years; unlike the wood of a violin that can continue to be functional unless there's an accident. If the pickup materials in a vintage bass fail and if they can't be replicated you can be sure the value will collapse. So we may celebrate the increase in value now, but it's possible any owners of vintage basses may do well to sell now, rather than keep them to the point of failure. It may well be true that the change in the cloth and resin in the pick-up may have changed the sound of the bass guitar, but we can't be sure as we also can't be sure we are replicating the amps and the recording technology. What we also can't be sure of is if a bass made today will change in in the same way as the old ones did. Pickups are made differently today. So the break-down in the materials will be different. So it's very possible a bass made today will sound exactly the same in 50 years as it does today. So, sorry guys, but if you're looking at keeping your new Fender for 50 years it may well totally fail as an investment. So past performance is no guarantee of future return on investment. IMHO Anyway, what about "Road-worn" basses? I can see there's an achievement in keeping a bass in mint condition for 30 years. Is there any achievement in having a bass that looks like it's been dragged behind a car round the M25 or burnt in a house fire?

Another mature beginner! You're one amongst many of us. Welcome to BC.

I never met Graham, but he bought my Ibanez GWB-35 fretless 5 string. It was a really simple transaction. He asked me if it was still for sale and paid me by bank transfer. The transfer was in my account in minutes and I packed and sent the bass. Graham seems a really nice guy. Would be good to deal with him again anytime. Thanks Graham! I really hope you enjoy the Ibby fretless.

I met Phil yesterday and I bought from him my LTD fretless 5 string. I'm really pleased with it. Phil's a nice guy to deal with. The description was honest and the price fair. I think the amp I used to try it with was the Ashdown 130 he bought from here too. Thanks Phil.

After all this time I hope, for you it's still there.

Hi there, I'm watching a bass for sale near Kingswood and I may want someone to collect and ship it to me. Is anyone able to do this for me? Cheers Richard

My bad, I thought it was oil finish. Not arguing

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1383990435' post='2271541'] Hmmmm it begs the question 'Would the clip have been posted if she didn't have a nice top on?' IMHO no, otherwise I can potentially find hundreds (if not tens of thousands) of youtube bassists playing along to songs! [/quote] Agree 100%. I've not looked, but I bet she's got no vids of her on a bad-hair day.

Nothing but good will meant from me too. All spray polishes put a sticky residue on the wood. Once it's applied it clogs the wood grain and leaves a sticky residue. So from the time of applying the stickiness attracts dirt and makes the finish dirty. Also, as the grain is clogged it prevents oil from being soaked into the wood, so you can find the wood gets a look of being dry and "thirsty" but the oil wont penetrate. Oiled wood mostly gets the "thirsty" look from being exposed to strong daylight and heat, so admittedly this hopefully wont be a major problem for a bass. But it can happen. When this happens, an easily obtained oil for this is "boiled linseed oil" or "Danish oil". Boiled linseed is the one mostly used for all the oiled oak furniture you see in the shops. It will make the wood a honey colour, but it's good for keeping moisture out of any unfinished/unsealed wood. Back to the question: If you apply spray polish to any wood that is lacquered it will, as above, become sticky and attract dirt, but if you ever want to re-lacquer or spray-paint the wood, the polish will resist the lacquer and it wont stick. If you rub the finish down with sandpaper, the polish gets into the grain of the sandpaper and simply gets moved about and moves down through the lacquer to the wood itself.So if you have to do this you need to keep changing the sand paper. In any case, rather than simply start sanding it would be better to try to wash the spray polish off. For this you can try white spirit. I'm not too certain. I'd need to ask a friend. I've worked in wood finishing for 3-4 years in my career and so I know of the problem, but luckily I never had to refinish anything that had been so affected, so I know of the problem, but not so much the cure. I know the guys I worked for would prefer to turn a job away than deal with getting rid of spray polish. The answer for Simon (Geek99) is probably, to use white spirit as a first wash off, then use oil and hope it's not too bad. I doubt he's going to be spraying it with paint or lacquer, so it's not the end of the world. cheers Richard

Pledge and all spray polish is widely cursed by all in the business of wood finishing trade and antique furniture dealers everywhere tbe world ovr. Its not just snobbery. Sorry Warwickhunt on this you are very wrong.

Turned upside down and bottom string at the top. My guess is leftie guitars were harder to find back then.

Jimi Hendrix can also be added to the list too. Another lefty genius

I saw something interesting the other day. The guy was saying that the original inventor of the guitar was, in fact, left handed. He invented the instrument to have the neck on the left of the player, so all the complicated fretting was done with his most dexterous hand - his left. So all you right-handed players out there are actually playing LEFT handed. All those playing in the style recognised by most as "left-handed" are just poor confused souls and are playing right-handed.

Hi there, So you want to keep you bass looking good and shiny? This thread has come out of my reading another thread on here and I read with total horror that a good BCer has polished his Warwick bass with Pledge. [b]Pledge / Mr.Sheen and all of that stuff is EVIL[/b] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]They are all the work the work of the devil. If you ever want to do anything with the wood after using this stuff it'll take ages of hard work to get rid of Pledge. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Pledge seals the wood against oil and beeswax. It coats the wood with a sticky coat that causes the wood to attract dirt and grime.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]On lacquered surfaces if you ever want to re-spray it, simply sanding wont get rid of Pledges magical way of resisting lacquer or paint from sticking to the surface. Sanding simply contaminates the sandpaper and the Pledge stays on the surface. To re-spray a Pledged surface the only way is strip the surface with stripper of a heat-gun.[/font][/color] [b]Polish to use:[/b] [b]Only ever use beeswax or a polish from a specialist guitar cleaning kit. [/b]Or on sealed finishes (not oil finish) simply wipe over with a soft damp, maybe slightly soapy cloth. Whatever you do though, NEVER use anything in the way of polish from a spray can. This includes your furniture. Thanks for reading. Richard

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1383905380' post='2270552'] ....I've cleaned the findgerboard and lemon oiled it, and cleaned the body and nek with Dettox and then polished it with pledge and its looking not too shabby for a 14 year old bass..... [/quote] [size=6][b]NOOOoo[/b]ooooo!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't EVER use pledge on anything wood!![/size] [size=4]Pledge is the work of the devil. If you ever want to do anything with the wood it'll take ages of hard work to get rid of Pledge.[/size] Pledge seals the wood against oil and beeswax. It coats the wood with a sticky coat that causes the wood to attract dirt and grime. On lacquered surfaces if you ever want to re-spray it, simply sanding wont get rid of Pledges magical way of resisting lacquer or paint from sticking to the surface. Sanding simply contaminates the sandpaper and the Pledge stays on the surface. To re-spray a Pledged surface the only way is strip the surface with stripper of a heat-gun. At least yours it oil. [size=4]Good luck.[/size]