Grangur

I saw something interesting the other day. The guy was saying that the original inventor of the guitar was, in fact, left handed. He invented the instrument to have the neck on the left of the player, so all the complicated fretting was done with his most dexterous hand - his left. So all you right-handed players out there are actually playing LEFT handed. All those playing in the style recognised by most as "left-handed" are just poor confused souls and are playing right-handed.

Hi there, So you want to keep you bass looking good and shiny? This thread has come out of my reading another thread on here and I read with total horror that a good BCer has polished his Warwick bass with Pledge. [b]Pledge / Mr.Sheen and all of that stuff is EVIL[/b] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]They are all the work the work of the devil. If you ever want to do anything with the wood after using this stuff it'll take ages of hard work to get rid of Pledge. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Pledge seals the wood against oil and beeswax. It coats the wood with a sticky coat that causes the wood to attract dirt and grime.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]On lacquered surfaces if you ever want to re-spray it, simply sanding wont get rid of Pledges magical way of resisting lacquer or paint from sticking to the surface. Sanding simply contaminates the sandpaper and the Pledge stays on the surface. To re-spray a Pledged surface the only way is strip the surface with stripper of a heat-gun.[/font][/color] [b]Polish to use:[/b] [b]Only ever use beeswax or a polish from a specialist guitar cleaning kit. [/b]Or on sealed finishes (not oil finish) simply wipe over with a soft damp, maybe slightly soapy cloth. Whatever you do though, NEVER use anything in the way of polish from a spray can. This includes your furniture. Thanks for reading. Richard

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1383905380' post='2270552'] ....I've cleaned the findgerboard and lemon oiled it, and cleaned the body and nek with Dettox and then polished it with pledge and its looking not too shabby for a 14 year old bass..... [/quote] [size=6][b]NOOOoo[/b]ooooo!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't EVER use pledge on anything wood!![/size] [size=4]Pledge is the work of the devil. If you ever want to do anything with the wood it'll take ages of hard work to get rid of Pledge.[/size] Pledge seals the wood against oil and beeswax. It coats the wood with a sticky coat that causes the wood to attract dirt and grime. On lacquered surfaces if you ever want to re-spray it, simply sanding wont get rid of Pledges magical way of resisting lacquer or paint from sticking to the surface. Sanding simply contaminates the sandpaper and the Pledge stays on the surface. To re-spray a Pledged surface the only way is strip the surface with stripper of a heat-gun. At least yours it oil. [size=4]Good luck.[/size]

Isn't it actually getting hard to find a second-hand one for sale that's not been modded in any way? (That's if it's not a bitza with no Fender parts except the logo) [quote name='peteb' timestamp='1383652146' post='2266969'] A lot of people buy Fenders for the look and the general vibe but they are easy to mod and some of the parts are not that great. I have a Am Std Jazz with upgraded pickups, bridge and an active circuit - it sounds great but importantly, it is still an American Fender, which is unfortunately is still much more of an important factor than it should be for many band leaders and members of the audience! [/quote] Isn't this part of the reason - bass players know this expectation and so they go and buy a Fender on a lemming style mission. They then try to get the sound they really wanted all along by modding. This happens because attempting to do it by changing the pups etc, is within the scope of their ability, and it's more glitzy to do this than to go all over the country trying to find amps to complete the sound. Isn't it a bit sad really? But then I may be wrong..

Hi Simon, If you just get dark wax and use that on the blonde body you'll get the same effect that you would expect from using black shoe polish on a pair of light colour shoes. What you need to do is get hold of a dark wood oil. You won't find it in a hardware store. Try contacting osmouk.com. They specialise in these oils. You can try jist applying it to the body as it is and you may get a good result. If not you may need to strip the bass down and wash the body with white spirit to get the old oil out of the grain. Sand the body down with 350, or finer paper, then apply the oil. Apply the oil with a soft cloth. When you're finished, wash the cloth with water and leave it out to dry before you dispose of it. If you don't it may self combust and burn the place down. So its worth doing right.

Yeay!! Many thanks

Looking for bargain basses on Evil-bay and Gumytree. With few exceptions there's no such thing as a bargain in either place. There are far too many people after the same thing. Most items eventually sell for every penny of their true value. But still it calls me to look

Don't ask me. I've hardly had it open. I'm busy working through other books. My gut feeling is it's probably more suitable for players who are further down the road than I am.

Just re-read the OP... ahemm... Ignore what I posted if we're talking about stage lighting - you can't beat it for stage lighting. So much better than high power halogens.

Thanks Ped, for the confirmation. No probs. I might get more work done!

If ML was that bothered about the domain, why didn't he complain in 2000 or soon after? He's a sad, failing "star" who's simply clutching at straws as he sees his money disappering. Very sad. Its a shame if Dean Torkington can't just ignore the US court's ruling.

I'm a lighting engineer by trade. I sell LED lighting to the construction industry for commercial use. I should say, however, I sell light fittings, not lamps. So I'm not pushing and particular lamp supplier. What I say is from my knowledge of the industry, not trying to sell any particular product. First, watts is NO guide of the output. Good LED lighting is about efficiency and each supplier of the technology boasts its own figures on "Lumens per Watt", but the price tag is not cheap. Poor/cheap LED is all a con, fooling the public into thinking they'll save money. The light output is poor in level and will often be blue in colour and become more blue through its life. It will also fade with time faster than the more expensive versions. The lamp life on the cheap ones will be poor too. They claim 50,000 hours (the industry standard life claim, but the cheap suppliers are living on the expectation that in 10,000 hours (1 year of 24/7 approx) you won't have the foggiest of where you bought it and wont have the receipt. The price for a quality you would need to pay for a typical 50W dichroic low-voltage lamp replacement, from a good supplier is currently about £20. The LED lamps I've seen in the retail sheds is all cheap cr@p. The colour of the LEDs in the lamp vary, but they're often blue on day 1. So what they'll be like in a year only time will tell. The LED market right now is flooded with cheap, nasty LED products that won't last and is poor value for money. LED will save you money in terms of electricity, but the saving in power has to be greater than the cost of the lamps. In the case of the cheap lamps - those readily available to the public in the retail sheds the life most people get is about the same as a 50w low voltage lamp (from things I've heard). So the calculation you need to make is if you save 45W per lamp over 10,000 hours, will you get your money back? Also if you don't use the room lighting much how much cash do you want tied up in light bulbs? Even as a lighting engineer I don't have any LED lamp replacements in my house. I have replacement fittings, because I get them cheaper, but I don't see the value in replacement lamps.

Yawnnnn.... if you want to make money with Fender, buy shares in the company, don't buy a bass.

Hi All, I've found the mobile version of the site seems to have stopped working on my Android phone. Also, the "Mobile version" link at the bottom-left of the page has disappeared. Or is it just me? Cheers Rich

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Starcaster-Electric-Guitar-with-Amp-and-Accessories-/111190132941?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item19e372c8cd"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19e372c8cd[/url] [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Squier-Stratocaster-practice-amp-gig-bag-leather-strap-and-lead-VGC-/261313958446?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3cd786922e"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Squier-Stratocaster-practice-amp-gig-bag-leather-strap-and-lead-VGC-/261313958446?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3cd786922e[/url] My sons both had Yamaha Pacifica guitars. Yes - very good as a start. They also sell for pathetic sums of money. So you should get a real bargain.

Abandon this thread - see this one: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/221375-tile-looks-interesting/page__fromsearch__1

Just make sure you also clarify who pays the international transfer fees - it's not cheap. I like to use transfers for Uk sales too - they can't bounce like cheques do.

[quote name='barkin' timestamp='1383480194' post='2264812'] Indeed. They're on every cheque you've ever written. [/quote] Agreed. Plus Paypal take 10% for the pleasure.

If you take the 2 out put wires from the Seymour Duncan MM circuit and substitute those for the 2 wires from the pup in a normal P-bass wiring diagram, that will give you the tone and volume you're looking for. SD do a good diagram if you look on the site

You can set up the old bass all ypu like, it will still be, as ypu say; too chunky. Take a trip to Denmark St, if oyu can get there and take a tour of the options.

I'm probably as noob as tbey come and looking forward to the sticky too, but my knowledge is that basic that I don't even understand tbis thread. Thanks all the same though, I'm getting ideas of where to look. All I want to do is record my bass playing. I've got a pc and a Zoom B3. So far I've been plugging tbe bass into the B3 and using the usb to connect to the pc. I've been using Audacity. But I guess Reaper is better. Ideally it would also be good to record the drum rhythms from the B3 too. Its working ok, but the levels I'm getting are low and a fair bit of white noise. Can anyone make any suggestions? If this is hijacking someone s thread, then I would like to apologise.

[quote name='kevin_lindsay' timestamp='1383328354' post='2263299'] Grangur, yeah there was a lot of time and effort invested in this bass, but I'm pleased with the result. As for the decal, I just used it as the bass is based on some Fender reference points which I really like. Maybe I should have used my own logo, but I thought, "people seeing the bass with my name on the headstock, will just think it's a no-brand cheapo". So I used the Fender decal. [/quote] Fair point. It's a real shame that branding is such a major thing. The end result is really something though. I don't imagine this is will be appearing on ebay any time soon in any case. At least, I seriously hope for you that it won't. Well done.