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Grangur

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Everything posted by Grangur

  1. I must have posted about 5-6 basses. All wrapped in bubble and brown cardboard box material and sent using www.collectplus.co.uk. I've always ignored their size limits, but go only by their weights. They insure up to £300, but I've never had to claim. Never had any go missing. Nothing damaged. I've had one that took a few days over to be delivered, but the buyer wasn't at home to accept delivery. I'd use CollectPlus again and recommend them, but as said earlier - if it was £1000 + then I'd take it there by hand.
  2. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1381927627' post='2245569'] ...Regarding genre, I don't have a problem with having a listen to anything and sometimes it's better not to have any pre-concieved ideas of the music before I click play. If it happens to be something that I don't like then I can easily click stop and move on to something else. IME bands are notoriously bad at describing themselves and sometimes listeners can be very conservative without realising it. The Terrortones have a lot of diverse influences and seem to fit vaguely into quite a few genres, but naming any one of them could potentially put off someone who might actually like what we do, so these days I mostly describe it as B-movie visual rock n roll and then let people make up their own minds when they see/hear us. [/quote] Fair point - it's probably just me. Right now I'm on a slow Thai connection and recordings take ages to download.. So point well taken. What could be good is if, when posting, folk say if they're noobs or Pro or whatever-in-between. The reviewers comments could reflect this.
  3. [quote name='Mcgiver69' timestamp='1381925695' post='2245511'] Divide the forum into: - Recoding equipment - Recording process - Sharing new music. I would even go further and sub-divide the "Recording Process" forum by Mac, Windows and other. That would help segment the contributions making them easier to navigate. Let's be honest if I go to that forum it will be primarily to find help on my recording ventures. Hope this makes sense. [/quote] Good one. Plus I'd suggest splitting the "Sharing the music"; provided we can get enough folk posting recordings. I suggest this because the response from the listener could be different if you know the band thinks they're noobs or if they're trying to chase a recording contract. Maybe this can be info posted with the link - including this in the standard posting procedure again.
  4. [quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1381920260' post='2245366'] What do you want to be able to do? [/quote] Many thanks for the quick response. I'd like to understand what other folk are talking about. So a simple glossary would be good. WRT the starting to record, I've probably met my requirements. Others may like to know a good low cost way to get started to write the kind of music in the monthly composition compo. Others may want to get to where I am, but using another route other than a Zoom.
  5. Hi there, I'm a total noob to anything involving recording. My teacher talls my I should record myself but until recently I had no idea how to start. (I cracked it by buying a Zoom B3 and downloading Audacity) I've tried reading this forum but I get lost in all the talk about MIDI and VST. Maybe someone could open the door to folk like me be writing a sticky with some basic information. Maybe they should assume the reader has a combo with a phones/speaker o/put, a laptop and a bass. Where do I go from here? One other request: When posting a link to a recording it would be good if folk could say what genre the track is. It doesn't matter if it's exactly right. But if you can't stand metal, or you fall asleep to classical, then it would save readers' time. Thanks for reading
  6. If you're still interested in an answer to this, try mailing Kiogon of this parish. He's your top man on this subject
  7. [quote name='wally8' timestamp='1381844273' post='2244435'] Hi all, Apologies if this has been covered. i did my best to search but couldnt find any info. On my Warwick FNA Jazzman (natural ash finish with the cool tiger esq striping) i have a few lines on the body where my sweat has run. Ive tried rubbing with the official wax as that is claimed to be a cleaner as well but ive had no luck, its still there. I think my sweat is a bit acidic when gigging as ive already rusted my MM pickup poles. Any ideas? Cheers, Ben [/quote] Cough... ahem. Back onto the topic. The best way I've come across to get contamination out of the wood grain is to wash it with [u]clean, new[/u] white spirit. You can apply the white spirit with a cloth, then sand it, or you can use fine wire wool. In any case you'll probably want to go gently with the white spirit and sand after using a seriously fine grain paper. The finest you can find. The bad news is the white spirit will remove the oil as well. So when you've finished you'll need to re-oil the bass. For this you can use any Danish oil, or a Boiled-Linseed oil. To keep the sexy light colour, try to get a nice light colour oil. After re-oiling let the oil soak into the wood and wax it to a great finish. Long term, keep oiling the body every so often as the wood will dry out and become open to soaking up your bodily fluids... err... if you take my meaning. Ooorrrr you can strip down the body, wash off all the oil using white spirit, sand it and lacquer the body. That will then seal it against your sweat. Good luck.
  8. Thanks for the contribution, Ambient. All additions to the thread are always great.
  9. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1381597607' post='2241258'] No comms = open up a case. Takes a while for a case to process, so there's time to sort it. [/quote] +1 Log into your account and go to "the dispute centre" as ebay call it. Raise a dispute and in about a week evay will tell you tje transaction is void and then refund your money if you paid by PayPal.
  10. You might be getting worried unnecessarily but tbe seller should be able to reassure you. Mail him and ask for the latest news. Maybe you can get a BCer to go and collect it.
  11. Talking about the problem of getting the 3D look bach to the Beast. The wood colour is bronze-ish. You could try the 'roadworn/relic' thing and lightly sand it back through the black on the edges to sho the wood.
  12. [quote name='marcus bell' timestamp='1381508907' post='2240116'] just thought it looked pretty to be honest, im not really looking to buy just yet anyways, the main aim is to eventually get a kingbass artist again, but saving up around 1500 for a second hand bass seems a million miles away if im honest... sucks to be poor [/quote] Yes. But if you buy this you'll be £650 further away from getting the Kingbass than you could be. I've been to this dealer's shop. The finish on these is like an OKish bass with varnish.
  13. What are your thoughts? What are you looking for in a bass right now? FWIW The finish on a Rockbass is nothing like full-blood Warwick. I would suggest that you should see one on thw flesh before ypu part with over 650 for one. IMHO I'd look for a 2nd hand Warwick rather than a RB. But that's just me.
  14. Been reading this for some time. It looks amazing. What wood have you used? Also, please post the full tour list it would be great to see you with it.
  15. [quote name='Macko1968' timestamp='1381419825' post='2238871'] The bass is a nice enough bitsa, but no amount of magic beans or snake oil is going to make it more than that & if you're looking to blame someone for messing in your thread, I'd start a bit closer to home. [/quote] +1 It's a Japanese,cheap Fender copy. Everything else is in the eye of the beholder. Fender being a make of basses affordable for the masses - i.e. cheap. PS.. bump
  16. [quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1381407428' post='2238581'] I am no wood expert but all I know is whatever it is made of it is a nice looking bass [/quote] +1 If I were Dr S I'd have moved it on to Ebay ages ago and had it sold. But that's just me. I've sold a good number there with a 99p start. They soo nfind their true value.... but that's just me. Impatient I am.
  17. Phil Starr - thanks I'm always happy to be corrected. If you can suggest a better position for the cap I'm sure the OP would like to know. (Me too) Cheers Rich
  18. You guys are confusing two different things here. 1 - A bass player playing a solo and a self-serving, solo performing stunt/performance 2 - Playing as part of a band Both are totally separate and a different as comparing a snooker trick shot player with the performance in a snooker world championship. [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpba70L2BLo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpba70L2BLo[/url] The fact it, they're 2 separate jobs. If you doubt this listen to any of your favourite band tracks and take ANY instrument in isolation - almost every time no instrument taken in isolation is remarkable. The vid in the op lacks passion and feeling IMHO
  19. [quote name='Opticaleye' timestamp='1381004865' post='2233381'] It looks just like my Aria Precision ('78 Matsomoku) which is Sen ("Japanese Ash") [/quote] Excuse me, saying so, but I think you may have some confusion over the geography and the woods. I'd be happy to be corrected on this as I'm no expert, but here's the info as I understand it. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The Matsumoku factory were in Japan and in the business of making some quality cheap Fender copies, plus many other styles too.[/font][/color] If this bass is a Fender copy from the Matsomoku factory, it may be made from ash wood, but they were in the game of making them on the cheap. The wood used will be locally harvested in Japan so not swamp ash. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]"Swamp Ash" normally comes from the ash trees in the North American swamps. [/font][/color][color=#373737]Trees, like all plants, grow faster when there is plenty of sunlight, warmth and water, so the regions above and below the equator have the right conditions for speedy growth. Trees that grow in drier and less sunny climates grow more slowly and have higher densities (less water equals tighter grain; more water equals more open grain, a bit like the difference between a dry sponge and a wet one). Swamp Ash is wood taken from the lower portions of the trees which grow in swamps and so has its roots permanently submerged. When it dries out the wood has more air in it than Northern Ash, which grows more slowly and has a higher density. This is why Swamp Ash is lighter than Northern Ash. It’s also why Mahogany from Central and South America is prized for its tone.[/color] [font=Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][color=#373737][size=4]Fender, however don't normally use swamp ash, even for the USA production because it's too expensive for them. Fender's concept has always been to make cheap, affordable basses and swamp ash doesn't fit this as it's expensive to harvest. Fender usually used the more dense normal ash wood giving a far heavier body. This is why a Fender will weigh 9lb plus.[/size][/color][/font] [color=#373737][size=4]My own Warwick Streamer, which is swamp ash, weighs 7lb[/size][/color] [color=#373737]This bass selling here will be made from Japanese wood, which is very possibly Ash, but almost certainly not Swamp Ash.[/color] [color=#373737]More about the company can be read here: [/color][url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsumoku"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsumoku[/url] As you'll see, the factory has a great legacy. So this is possibly and interesting bass and may be a good buy for someone who wants a piece of history.
  20. [quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1380925599' post='2232621'] This sounds lame but this spray painting lark is tough. f***ed it up a couple of times. Doing the headstock. Couple of times dust has got on the finish so had to sand back. Then earlier i'd done good so went to do the final dusting (using metallic silver) I mustn't of shook the can enough or pressed on too hard and i got loads of drips on the finish......gutted. I've had to sand off the drips but its too late to do any more so i will have to do another coat in the morning then dust it and clear coat it. Will this be ok, being that i'm leaving it overnight? i must have used nearly half a can I'm a bit worried that the headstock will turn out to dark. [/quote] When you get small bits in the finish, don't sand it back straight off. Try first to get rid of the lumps when it's touch-dry by rubbing it over using the BACK of the sand-paper. Your other question isn't stupid. If the surface is flat and good, I would just spray the next coats on-top next day. But others may say different.
  21. [quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1381290058' post='2237002'] Some people do not know what a stud wall is, and have no idea that they even need to try to locate a stud. A setup, even one just requiring neck and bridge tweaking, is only simple if you understand how the neck, vibrating strings and bridge all work together. You (OP) understand that, great. Others may not get it, and they shouldn't be made to feel stupid because they don't get it. There's fretbuzz. Where on the fretboard is the buzz coming from? Is it due to the neck being too straight, or too bowed? Or the neck might be fine and it's just the bridge that needs altering. These things take practice. I don't think it's as easy as you make out. I'd agree that intonation adjustment is a much simpler and more clear cut concept. However, if they don't get it, that's fine. They may have strengths in other areas; things which come naturally to them, but you would struggle to get to grips with. [/quote] Totally agree. I go to a bass teacher. He's a good teacher. A lovely guy etc, etc. but he doesn't work on his basses. Practical stuff simply isn't his field. I think the older guys here are, sadly, more inclined to be practical than the younger guys - from my experience. Many of those of us who grew up in the 60s and 70s had bikes and cars which were needed constant attention to keep them on the road. Less of the gear we worked used were "sealed boxes", so it was easier to gain a self-taught apprenticeship in [s]breaking[/s] mending stuff.
  22. [quote name='bobbass4k' timestamp='1381276354' post='2236971'] A good set up does not take 2 minutes and 42 seconds, even a half-arsed set up involves more than turning an allen wrench. You're doing a simple set up to a (low) standard that you're happy with on your basses. ... [/quote] You can only speak for yourself of course. The worst set-up I've ever had took the shop 2 attempts at 2 weeks at a time and it was still unplayable. Martin at the Bass Gallery did a good set up on my Warwick when I bought it there and that was good. But no better (IMHO) than my own set-ups. For myself I'd say I seldom sit down and do a "full set-up", unless I've just got my hands on a new bass. What actually happens is I may find a get a small amount of fret buzz or I notice the intonation is slightly out on the bass I'm playing, so I get the allen key and make the small adjustment then and there. So it's more a case of ongoing maintenance.
  23. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1381242790' post='2236283'] Not really, a plug is right or wrong. Setup has massive degrees of adjustment possible. Including adjusting things that people on the internet like to declare makes no difference. [/quote] You missed my point. For some folk to tighten a screw requires a tradesman. Doing it themselves is simply off their radar.
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