Grangur

I don't know if anyone can help with this, but from reading BC and this thread about SD SBP pickups it seems 1 is the vintage; most bassey one and the progressively get punchier or 'hotter' as the number goes up. This seems logical to me. Then I read the Seymour Duncan web site nad they refer to the "2" as being hot. Then I follow the links to hear demos of the pups. The player does well to play the same riff with all of the pups. Such a shame he only slaps though. It may be my hearing, but to me the tone differences can't be heard in the short length of a slapped note. Am I right in thinking that if I want a deep, growly blues tone an SBP2 would be a good idea? Thanks in advance.

[quote name='jezzaboy' timestamp='1377000621' post='2181977'] Looks ok. It is the older model of Sr300. Decent basses and the bridge looks original from what I remember. Just give it a good going over and make sure the active controls are working ok, the neck looks ok etc. If the bass is all ok, you got a decent bass for your cash. One thing. If you play fingerstyle and rest your thumb on the pickup, due to the shape of the pickups following the radius of the neck, if you jam a plectrum between the body and the pickup it gives you a better anchor for your thumb. [/quote] Unless you play with a floating thumb, in which case you won't have a problem. If the bridge does give any problems you can change it yourself if the mount is standard and you know your way round a screwdriver- which I don't doubt. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Mel, are you collecting or is it being shipped to you? If you're not collecting would you like another BCer to collect it and take a look before parting with the cash?

Can Sellers can't give bad feedback on buyers,I don't think they can

It's funny, but the seller has no feedback.. I wonder why?

Paint may look pretty, but kevlar it is not. So the dings will continue and the paint will soon look crap, unless you're really into the scratched paint look in a big way. [size=4]Repairing the dings in the oiled wood is far easier than re-spraying. [/size][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]To repair dings in wood, don't sand it. You can sweat the wood back to shape.[/size][/font][/color][size=4] First [/size][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]plug in the clothes iron. Mrs Miles'tone will tell you what it looks like [/size][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]Get a soft, old cloth and a bowl of water. Dip the cloth in the water and put a small piece of the wet clot over a dent and get the tip of the iron and heat the cloth/dent.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Doing this will normally cause the wood to swell and the dent will recover. If not go find a Stanley knife and take a look at the dents and cut the wood WITH the grain. DON'T go across the grain. Just do small cuts, don't go hacking at it. Then steam the wood with the cloth/iron again.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]When the wood has swollen back out you'll need let it dry out. When dry you need to sand the wood to get rid of any rough bits. Finish it off with really fine grain paper (at least grade 350, finer if you can get it). Sand it WITH the grain, not across it. After this it'll look a ton better than it did.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Finish off by re-applying the finish - oil or lacquer; whatever it has already. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]PM me if you need more info[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then meet me down the pub and buy me a beer.[/font][/color]

Wot if I like it too much? [size=4] [/size] [size=4] [/size][size=4]You're right it could all go SOoooo very wrong [/size]

If it has to go back, would Sandberg accept you sending the body only? I know they'd prefer the whole bass, but I don't expect for one second it's the neck that's faulty.

Mine's nothing like my BC name. All we need to do is make sure that any real bidder is miles lower than the BC offers. So he can't do a 2nd chance.

I feel for some poor sod who can be sitting there with an SBR150, seeing the bidding go up and thinking he's got some kind of collectors piece! (Just been out bid by S*****g again!) I bet we'll see a glut of them go up on Saturday

To Police Squad: [size=4]Start packing your bass mate. You've a buyer who'll pay you £1m for it! [/size] Pete, I do hope you're not going to back out.

Yes, but he wont know how much you've bid. He only knows that to sell you must be outbid. BTW I've reported and asked a question too.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1376915765' post='2180734'] Well we might find out unless someone bids higher than my £1000000 No sign of Ebay pulling the listing so far [/quote] Nahh, they're just working out their retirement plans on the commission from the sale

.. dies of embarasment. [size=4] [/size]

I just bid and was outbid straight away. I've tried reporting it, but I can't find any category in their awful web site that matches the category or for us to write anything. Has anyone else found one?

I've got a Mexican Jazz and it's not lacking in bass. In fact I keep the treble-cut/tone turned right up because to me, if you wind it the other way the bass gets too much. Sorry to disagree with Iceonaboy, but take the pups right down to the bottom and give the strings space to breathe. You could also raise the action a bit on the bridge, this too may help. Here's mine

I live in Bishops Stortford and I'm off to Bournemouth on Wednesday this week. PMed

I've just raised my action. Well, that's to say I've wound up the height of the strings on the bridge. The pups are tight down. It will take longer to raise MY action of my playing. Miracles take a little longer etc.,. The tone has definitely got better and more woody. It's lost some of the twang. Many thanks guys. You've saved me buying new pups, for a while anyway.

I'm sure folk will tell me if I'm wrong, but the impression I get is budget gear does better on Ebay than on BC. The few times I've advertised a cheap bass on BC I've hardly had any body looking. I think BC's better for the serious gear.

Not wanting to be a kill-joy, but isn't this a Rick*backer add by stealth? Shouldn't you be paying your £20 to start this thread? [size=4] [/size]

I found my way here but don't have a DB. Voted anyway. I has to be a good idea. If I get a DB I'd really appreciate being able to try before buying.

[quote name='nottswarwick' timestamp='1376722260' post='2178353'] In know they have the low mid growl but I'd be wondering if there is something amiss. I've played mine through my studio set up with headphones, and I've not found it lacking in proper low E fundamental frequencies at all [/quote] If you don't mind me asking, do you also play jazz bass as well as the p-bass? I ask this because I have a jazz, a P-J and a P. My P is the one with the thinnest tone. I bought it after I found that on the PJ I was loving the P pup. Yet in comparison the P bass wirh Bart pups just doesn't have to lows of the other 2.

If it were a guitar with cheese-wires cutting the nut I'd say "brass or similar any day". But on a bass? Nahhhhh

If you're looking to rewire your Jazz, I'd suggest you could do a lot worse than to wire it as shown in the circuit diagram you've posted. It's a standard, tried and tested circuit. It certainly won't blow anything up.

[quote name='Dandelion' timestamp='1376652842' post='2177353'] Hiya Nick! Have you got turquoise toes? [/quote] Why are you looking to get some? Hi Nick! Welcome to BC