Grangur

Bought a Fender MIM Jazz from Simon. Nice guy, great coms and good, honest, accurate description of the bass... as I would have expected of him. He's a nice guy to deal with and good to meet in person. Many thanks Simon. Richard

I have a Warwick Streamer Stage 1 JP with MECs and a P-bass custom build with Bartolini pups. IMHO the sound of the Barts is similar to that of the MECs. [size=4]I recon you'd be throwing your money away if you changed those in the Wawick. [/size]

funny, I too was thinking that it would be interesting to change caps and see it on an oscilloscope Great minds...

I bought them in seperate packs and each was a universal Tone/vol pot. Both came with a capacitor, which I have used as the tone cap. So both would be the same. I was wondering if they were logarithmic and maybe I'd got one or both connected the wrong way round. This morning I disconnected the wiring and measured the resistance with a multi-meter. They are linear, so seem to be anyway. While I was re-doing it today I also reconfigured it all in the circuit that came with the pups (Bartolini) This is similar to the one posted by AngelLaHash. I think it works a bit better. I don't know why, they're all variations on a theme. I think I'll consider it done though. There's only so many times you want to keep unscrewing the pick-guard Over all I'm happy with the sound. Many t[size=4]hanks guys.[/size]

Thanks for the reply, and for letting me know I'm not communicating. The wiring diagram I used was this one: The problem I'm having is as follows: If we imagine the tone pot is marked with calibration 1-9. If "1" is full bass/treble-cut. Then if I turn the pot, by the time I've turned to "3" the treble is at full. Positions 4-9 are all the same; no change.

If you're going for a natural finsh, don't use filler unless you have no option. Instead you should sand it to a good finish. Then finish off using sandpaper with as fine grit as you can get your hands on. Ideally use 1000 grit.

Your = statement of ownership. NOT "your a bass player" aaagggggghhhhhh!! You're = abbreviation of "you are". As in "You're a bass player There = as in "you left your bass over there". Their = as in "their instruments were in the van over there when they got nicked" See, it's easy. Now get it correct. Please. [size=4] [/size]

Hi All, I've just fitted 2 Fender 250k CTS pot in my bass build. The sound is great; deep solid thump. But wben I turn the pots to dial the tone or volume all the control is up one end. So all I would be using of the total turning of the pot is about 10% of the length of its distance. The packaging didn't say they are logarithmic, so my guess is they are linear. Is there anything I might have got wrong in the wiring? The bass is a p bass and the circuit is the standard Fender one with the cap betwen the 2 pots.

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1372886555' post='2131307'] Totally with you [/quote] +1 So many pronounce it squire.

In principle yes. In theory you can sand it to get a good key for the paint and paint a good layer of primer over it. Here's one I did earlier (Stripped by blowlamp) : After blowlamp Then later after spraying If you're painting the body does it really matter if some of the wood goes a slightly darker colour with the heat from a gun? If it's covered with the paint and it wont get seen who will know? (As long as it's not charred and burnt so much as to make it flaky) But to answer the original question... you seem to be doing ok already. It looks primed and ready. What I would do if I were you is take out the elects completely so you can spray it all in one go. I'm sure that putting them back in wont be a problem.

I used a good old blow lamp. As soon as the paint curls scrape and move the lamp on; no scorching on mine. Maybe I was just lucky.

I've just gone through the same problem. I also installed a push/pull switch to switch between 0.1 and 0.047uf caps. There was some difference between the 2, but not a lot. Mine too is a p-bass. Maybe you can gain something from what I've done. Not that I'm an expert. Also from what I've seen, 500K pots give a brighter sound than 250K. If I were you I'd change them. My bass one I'd just rebuilt with new pups and elects. There was a bright"metalic" twang to the sound. When I looked/listened closer I found this was a especially pronounced on the D and G strings. To resolve it I turned the pup under the D&G round 180 degrees. This sounded a lot better. Still finding it bright to my taste. I tried a few other things. (Not that I've totally "got there yet") I wired the pups direct to the output jack to test is it the pups or the elects. The pups were deep and nice.So I knew the solution has to be in the elects. Like a good-boy I'd wired the new pups in the circuit that Bartolini gave out with the pups. I next took this out of circuit and connected the old elects from the Squier. This made things a lot better. So I changed the wiring of the new pots and cap to the Fender configuration - improvement still. In the new elects I'd installed a nice new [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271083739649?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649"]Sprague Orange Drop cap capacitor .047uf[/url]. I had the luxury of having another cap from the old circuit from my Squier and replaced this - same value. And this has improved it a fair bit. The bass through the elects is still not as deep as from the pups alone. In the new elects I installed some nice small pots. My next step is to change the pots to some top of the range (well, maybe) CTS pots. I'm wondering if the size is also a factor. While I've thought, "a resistor is just a resistor"a pot is also a coil of wire. This coil will, therefore, also add an inductance to the circuit and a back-emf (emf - electro-motive force - for any readers not familiar) So this may also effect the sound. I hope some of this might help, or at least be relevant. Richard

[quote name='PauBass' timestamp='1372797406' post='2130211'] I have never heard about Collect Plus, thanks! Have you sent the basses on hard cases? [/quote] No. Never had the luxury. I've only ever used bubble wrap and cardboard. Besides hard cases increases the weight. I do have the benefit of a good supply of bubble wrap though.

.... and I didn't have to saw the neck off

Hi All, Credit where it's due: I sold a bass on Evilbay on Sunday. I packed it and dropped it off at my local store for Collect Plus to take to the buyer. This was at about 7.00 at night on Sunday. It got delivered today (Tuesday) at 9:34. All for just over £8.00. OK, yes, it's true Collect Plus say they only take parcels up to [color=#666666][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=4]60x50x50cm, but I've packed and shipped a few basses with them in the past with no probs.[/size][/font][/color] Just thought others would like to know.

Got some here too... Thanks for raising this Cheers Richard

[quote name='TWILITEZONE' timestamp='1372636702' post='2128067'] karma. went to china for recycling and will return as a cardboard shipping bass box. will it end up in paisley? [/quote] Yep, and Birmingham, Manchester, London, San Francisco, Tokyo, Bognor,....

The colour is For Azure Blue. It's a metallic finish. It was finished off with clear lacquer, then sanded with 1200 grit sandpaper and T-Cut to bring up a gloss finish. The sound is getting there. It's got a bit of a harsh metalic twang to it that I'm not so keen on. I'm looking for more of a low-down growl. So I'm still playing with the elects. I may put all the original elects in again and see what that sounds like with the new bridge. I can't see as the twang comes from the bridge, but its a start point. I'd welcome anyone's thoughts on that. Thanks guys.

OK, guys here's the finished thing. Ok, well all apart from some tweaking on the wiring. I still need to sort a problem on the tone control. As I said, I've changed the bridge and the pups etc. I've also added a push/pull switch on the tone. This switches between 2 capacitors, each rated at 0.47uf a 0.1uf, except it's not quite behaving yet. But for anyone stil linterested, here are the pics: Well, that's all folks!!! Many thanks for looking and for all your comments in this thread. Cheers Richard

It looks really cool. I'm also pleased you've got the sound you're looking for too. Great all round!

[quote name='canarybass' timestamp='1372584983' post='2127358'] Good question. Years ago I sold a P bass on ebay which had a Jap Fender body, Badass, Basslines pickups, and a (very nice) neck from one of the Squier Silver Series models. I suspect it would have sold for a lot more if the Squier logo had been sanded off! [/quote] "Fender body"? ...some would call that a Fender bass, not a Squier - you're probably right

I just ventured onto the Squier chat forum (ok, I know. It won't happen again). On there I saw a thread of a guy who's taken his beloved bass, given it a new body and new electrics, wiring the pots in series/parallel with a push/pull switch. He still calls it a Squier. At what point should you no-longer attribute a bass to a maker? I've got a Squier, resprayed it, Bart pups, Hipshot bridge, new elects and new machinesheads. I'm tempted to sand the brand off of the headstock. Who's right?

I used to work in software and we used to give software away. It was called "seeding the market". I wonder if Fender see fakes with genuine necks as exactly the same thing? By selling a neck you're getting £120(?) from someone who would never buy an actual Fender. I too am amazed about the number of Fender necks on ebay. Whatever happened to the bodies? They can't all have got smashed by "rock-stars"

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1372547825' post='2127168'] And don't expect some of the guitar shops to know much about them either, even some of the friendly ones with good reputations. Although they're more likely to sort things out if you find the bass isn't what they said it was. Always run the neck plate through the Fender serial number checker thingy before buying, you'll be surprised how often they're not what they're supposed to be. [/quote] I've been searching online for a checker and can't find one. Rich, can you please post the link? The Warwick checker is great, it gives you a full description of the bass. All I've found from Fender is the first few letters telling you the factory and the next number tells you the year.