Grangur

Can't claim to be an expert, but I was told tighter radius necks are better for string bending. Flater is better for tapping and hammer ons.

Try a Warwick. They have a 20" radius?

Depends on the gear you have access to.

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Watching the video, it looks to me like the anchor is the pickup cover. He rakes his index finger and uses the thumb to deaden the strings, to get the classic JJ dead-note tones. ... but I could also be wrong.

Nitro, poly, it's all in a day's work to a rough cloth.

.... and use a SOFT microfiber cloth or soft old t-shirt.

Superficial scratches are really easy to make using T-Cut. All you do is put the T-Cut on an old cloth and scour round and round and the cloth scratches more than the T-Cut gets rid of them. To get rid it's harder. T-Cut can do it sometimes, but a soft pad on a power drill or buffer is going ro be the best way. This is a great example why my heart is filled with dread with questions like, "which polish should i use for my Nitro bass?"

Cheapskate! (Maple was only chosen originally because, in the USA, it's cheap)

Hey! Good luck. At £400 you can even pay a luthier.

It would be a straightforward fix for someone confident in re-cutting fret slots. What we don't know is if theslot filler is a harder or softer material than the neck maple.

Surely, tge most influential "tonewood" in a bass will be that used in the neck structure. This is because this is the section most likely to resonate. The fretboard is too thin to make a lot of difference. Body wood is too thick and short in length. As for burlwood tops and veneers; I never saw the point in that other than aesthetics.

Surely this has to be weighed against speed of the sale? Selling a Yamaha or a Fender USA Standard P or J won't net much margin, but a shop that's known for carrying these will sell them fairly quickly. A commission sale might net a good sum in commission, but the shop risks carrying the stock for a few weeks.

These basses look amazing. Have to say I so like a bit of wood grain myself. Can't wait to see pics and hear the bass.

Isn't this a case of "you do what you need to do, to sell the bass you have" ? If your bass is a predictable mass-market jelly-mold re-production of what so many other basses are, then you won't go for a commission sale. Besides, if the buyer decides their purchase isn't for them, they can move it on easy enough. If your bass a bit more niche, it may be inevitable that folk will want to try it, before shelling out large sums to buy. So as a seller, you may not have much choice other than to be very flexible and available to provide facilities for buyers to come and try a bass, or pay a pro-seller to do this for you. At all levels of the market there are folk who try to avoid sellers fees. Some even break rules to try to avoid even the modest BC seller fees. But generally I would guess folk like @thegallery and similar, will do more to actually earn commission seller fees, than Ebay. If what you have for sale is something you think is special, by a relatively unknown luthier, then you really don't have much choice than to do it on a commission sale, or accept a rather modest sale price when selling on Ebay or Gumtree.

In May I'll be meeting in Leeds, with a colleague from Scotland. After the meeting I'll be driving home and on to see my customers in the south counties. So, I could drop it into Wal. So as you may not be a tearing hurry, maybe my colleague and I can help?

EBay, by comparison would charge 10% They won't be standing about in the shop, supervising people "testing" out your bass. They won't hang around after hours waiting for another punter to try it on the way home from work. EBay don't get sellers calling 3-4 times a week for a report on who tried it and why they didn't buy. EBay won't offer your buyer a 6month after sales warranty. And for the added 5% you won't have your buyer calling PayPal to say it never arrived/not as advertised... can I have a refund please?

Met again with @Lozz196 today to sell him a Squier Affinity p-bass. As always it was a pleasure. Good to have a tea and chat again. The whole deal was straightforward and easy, and a pleasure. Many thanks Lozz

Sold Mickey some CDs. All went smoothly; nice easy transaction. Many thanks Mick.

You can also remove the HB using a blade from a Stanley knife. Remove the blade and use it as a scraper. It will remove less wood from the headstock than sanding.

Having looked again, I stand corrected

I entered a stock version of a Gear4Music L.A. Precision bass into a blind head to head challenge test at a Herts Bass Bash. @Lozz196 would know where the link is to the results, but my L.A. came 4th, above some USA Fenders. The body of mine was a little heavier than the current versions though.

That looks to me like the plate has broken. If I'm right, there's no way epoxy will hold out. Please measure the distance between centres of the holes and post these up here. I have a few spare odd tuners. Others here may have some too. We may be able to help you.