Grangur

"Bass for sale. I'll post pictures later..." Then they don't post pics. What's the point?

Always been surprised at the number I've come across where "a mate left it behind". £5 here says no BCer has ever taken a bass to a mate and left it and wouldn't want it back unless it was a donation to a good, worthy cause.

Sorry if I read your post all wrong. The first was as I was hitting the sack. The second was early in the morning as I was off to work.

Have a watch of the video. What you'll find is the bass has 2 output sockets. 2 on-board pre amps. You can see the battery compartment on the back. At the risk of sounding pedantic; he never referred to the humbucker as a woofer. That said, maybe some others might do so. As @Woodinblack says, what this bass does cannot happen in a passive circuit design. (Woodinblack knows more than I do) Form a marketing perspective, if Yamaha could make this bass passive, they would have done so they could have made it cheaper and sell more.

Was Andy Irvine the originator of the reference to butter? I know he always claimed it aplied to every Warwick he picked up. The other one I don't get is "plays itself".

As the bass is a Warwick, the truss rod adjustment is in a cavity in the headstock. The truss rod is a 2-way device. I've "undone" the Truss rod to the point where it has started to increase the relief and get tight again. So when clamping I've turned it to what seems to be a neutral position. Then applied the clamp and then tightened the TR. Tightened the clamp some more and given the rod another tweak. Then added another small turn to the clamp. Right now the bass is clamped and in the garden shed. The space differential between the ends and the centre is about 6mm. So the curvature is appreciable but not nerve shattering.

Ok, so Yamaha a also wrong in their terminology and I didn't know that. All you need to do then, is wire the switch correctly so the wires are on the right terminals. Do that and you'll be fine. Why have you got a capacitor across bridging those 2 terminals? As you know, that won't work. I could help, but with your attitude you're on your own.

Firstly, a subwoofer is a bass speaker. So there is no way a pickup is going to do that. Your diagram is confusing too, because you have 1 pickup in the diagram representing 2 actual pickups. You also appear to be confused about how the connections on a switch work. What I would suggest could be a good way to wire your pickups is to have them wired as p& j, but have a switch over to replace the p with the humbucker when you want a deeper muddy tone. If you're unsure about the wiring , you could drop a PM to @KiOgon @KiOgon makes great harnesses an will make your dreams come true.

Hi @Manton Customs very many thanks for your post. It's late now and I'm in bed. Tomorrow I'll put it in the garden shed. I'll leave it a few days and see what happens. I'll take some pictures and measurements too. When putting it in the clamps i was adjusting the truss rod to get it right. What I found interesting was when under no tension the TR squeaks as I turn it. When under tension it , again squeaks. Yet the was/is a time when it's under a small degree of clamp tension, that it turns quite freely. I guess that is the point of bend that I need to get it to be at it's relaxed state.

Hi @Jimothey for me it's been worth it. But the best thing to do is go to SBL and get a free 14 day trial. If you can't find a link, email them and ask, they are very helpful.

hey @charic I too am having the same issue. I've marked the whole site as "read". Click on the title and it still takes you to page 1. There is no star anymore. Not since the new site. I can see a very feint one on some threads, but you can't click that. it's not a link. This is on Chrome on a PC. On Android there's a dot and this does work.

Is this a possible contribution to causing the site to load agonisingly slowly?

The bass I'm working on is an expensive Warwick with a through neck. When I bought it, the action was high, lots of relief and the frets were tarnished. After removing the strings I polished the frets, replaced the strings and did a set up. I found I can get the action at the 24th fret down to 2mm and it feels better. With the truss rod it seems to max out with the action at the 9th fret being a touch over 1mm. I like it a bit lower than that. I received this bass this week, with strings up to tension and the TR was loose. I my guess is the bow is due to poor maintenance. So last evening I fitted the clamp as in the OP. This can not go wrong. There's no option of replacing the neck. So I applied the clamp to the neck to the point where it was all simply held in place, then applied another 1/2 turn. This allowed me to get another bit of a turn on the TR tool. Left over night and this morning I was able to get a bit more of a turn on the TR. Left it clamped again all day and tonight I checked it out with strings: Not much different to how it was not the beginning. So, back on with the clamp. I wish now I'd measured it more accurately, but think I could be in for a long haul here. If anyone here has ant experience of this they can share, I'd really appreciate your comments.

I too have an SBL subscription. The lessons in the courses are significantly better than the stuff you see on YouTube. Other than that, the forum, or "Campus" as they call it, is ok but full of kids. The mods are like playground supervisors. So I generally keep clear of these. The seminars can be good, with some good stuff from Ariane Cap, Danny No Morris and others. Scott's caned enthusiasm can grate, but in the lessons he's not like that.

I hope you've made a record of which wires go to each of the pins in the PCB. I would doubt the problem was anything to do with that, but good luck with fixing it. Sorry, but I'll withdraw my offer. I wish you all the best. I am an electronics engineer, but there are places I would tread carefully.

Just discovered this thread. I've got this issue on a bass. Thanks guys for the info.

If the Bart pickups aren't the originals, then the connections to these is the main place I would look at for poor connections.

I bought a Warwick bass from Isabelle. I've sold to Isabelle before, but not bought from her. Isabelle is French and she seems to struggle with English, so she doesn't send a lot of communication, but she seems a nice lady who's true to her word. I sent of a lot of money by bank transfer and the bass arrived, in a good box. It was well packed and just as expected. Many thanks Isabelle! It's been good to deal with you again. Kind regards Richard

What was crackling in the circuit when it was in the bass? Did the crackles happen when you adjust a pot? or when you move when playing the bass? or when you touch a pickup? Or did it happen when it's laying on it's back on the floor and you pick a string? I ask this, because it's far more likely that the problem is a pot, or a poor wiring connection than a faulty pre-amp. Physical problems are much more probable than an electrical problem. I too have a Streamer Stage 1. If you're stuck, send your complete Pre-amp assembly to me and I'll take a look. EDIT: Yes, it's very probable the problem is the wires that have come loose. Offer still stands - post it to me and I'll re-connect it and check it out in my streamer and check out any pots as needed as I can swap out bits with mine to find out exactly where any problem lies. I can do it over the weekend and back to you early next week, as long as we don't need new parts.

I seem to remember reading the composition of modern finishes are different to those used in the 70s. Which is why checking doesn't happen in the nitro finish of modern instruments. But this may be wrong. Good luck.

Hi Avi, You're doing well. Some of the tracks you're learning aren't exactly simple either. This one must take some concentration too. Well done. http://youtu.be/19D8GO8lhS0

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