Grangur

It's not likely to be oak. Oak will normally have medullary rays in it. Thease are the light-coloured flecks that you see in oak furniture. It would make it seriously heavy for a bass body though.

Sure, but this isn't "round the corner" near him. He'd be paying this plus import tax too. I would go with walking away. There are other 70s Fenders out there with more info. @Adrics would be badly hit if he was conned out of 2700$ US. He'd be better finding another. If it were in the UK, maybe folk here could check it out and vouch for it?

I've never had a floor stand fall off the wall. 😁 A lot of this can depend on how good your walls are. Mine are useless for holding anything. Even curtain rails in my house are screwed to wood battens held to the wall by No-Nails. So, it's "horses for courses". Neither is a bad idea. Both are better than leaving the bass in a precarious place where it can get damaged.

If you're going to spray the whole of the neck in a colour, minus the fretboard, wouldn't you have a tough masking job to do to get the edge straight along the join, plus you don't want a ridge where the paint starts? Surely, the easiest best way to do this, to get a good result would be to remove the fretboard, reduce the neck width by the thickness of the paint, then spray and re-fit the FB. But that would open a whole new can of worms. Unless you can think of another way?

If it were me, I'd like a 5, but as I'd like this exotic custom bass to be my go-to for everything, I'd be asking the builder how light-weight they can make the 5er. I want this bass to be a joy to play, well balanced and ticking all my boxes. This is really a situation where you need to pick a builder you like trust to ask you all the right questions and come up with something that answers all the questions you didn't even know you should be asking.

John @KiOgon will also be able to help you on this. John as supplied wiring harneses to many folk here for many years. He makes them fittable without needing a soldering iron. With regards 250 or 500ohm. John may correct me, but this is often a matter of taste. 500ohm gives a more agressive, punchy. treble tone. So this all depends on what you want.

You called, Sir? Hello. Hmm this looks interesting. The popular thought here of "sweating" the wood is what I'd try. The idea of the soldering iron I've never had success with. I use a household steam iron. Not certain if this will work though. Sweating works when the grain fibees are bent in, this has been hit with a sharp, curved object like a metal tube. The edge gas cut the fibres. Also, as someone else has said, you would damage the lacquered finish. The lacquer also has a colour to it. So rattle-can clear lacquer won't be able to do a great job. Wax, as suggested by @Reggaebassis good for cracks and such, but once you have pushed it in here, theres not much for the wax to hold on to. With regards to matching the colour, you use the wax by melting it in your hands and different colour waxes can be blended. So colour is no problem. But it probably won't hold. The best solution IMHO would be an epoxy-type hard filler and a good colourist would be able to fill it and replicate the grain in the stain used to make it almost invisible. I would search locally for a furniture finishers or French polishers. They will be best equipped to deal with it. If you simply want a cheap solution, then I'd simply use a thick superglue epoxy, but that instrument deserves better.

Thought this article may be of interest to the BC collective https://www.gov.uk/government/news/musical-instrument-firms-to-pay-millions-after-breaking-competition-law

With a nut width of 1.7" or 45mm that would be the same as a Warwick Corvette $$ 5er. I know someone on here who had one....

@ClassicVibes & @thegummy, it really all depends on where and how this was bought. If he bought it after seeing it in the flesh then, under UK Law, legally it's "buyer beware". It's down to the buyer to take a look and satisfy yourself that you know what you're buying. If it was an internet sale, then it's something that should be in the description. But after 12months + are you really thinking he stands a chance of complaining to the seller through EBay? Sorry guys, but after a year it's a bit late now.

Not in a band, but I play folk tunes, "popular" music and classical music from sight reading, on my 4 string basses. All tunes; not basslines. (Why am I here? I've obviously got the wrong instrument!) But I love the bass tone.

What's dodgy? So he saw it with 2 different pups and he liked and bought it. Nothing dodgy in that. Ok so he didn't notice the pups. If you sell a car, do you go round with each buyer and point out the stone chips?

I had an ESP LTD 5 string. It had a great, really narrow neck. Pretty cheap too. https://www.bax-shop.co.uk/right-handed-bass-guitar/esp-ltd-b-5e-natural-satin-5-string-bass-guitar?gclid=CjwKCAjw_-D3BRBIEiwAjVMy7GOV2mkx4Hx4vm9msyiESTTeNfepUT81UWL2vtqOyTccWuw5tyMidRoCP38QAvD_BwE

OK, so the bass has pups from 2 different makers. I doubt that will exactly be responsible for the inability of the OP to get on with fretless. Pups don't make *that* much difference to how it plays, providing that they actually work. After all, the chances are, the replacement pup is almost certainly going to be an upgrade. So, get on and play it, or sell it.

If you have the pup in a bass and have played a string in the bass, with or or without a nut, if it worked, then you're pretty safe in saying the pup works. You can't say much more about the pup until you have a nut and the bass is set up. Yet, as you're stripping it for parts, I guess what you have is a working pup of unknown origin.

That would look really cool. If you use spirit stains they still let you see the wood grain. You can get them from "Chestnut Finishes" or Hampshire Sheen". Mark Saban-Smith does some useful videos on YouTube about finishing. He does it on turned bowls, but the principle is the same.

This is looking good. Just 1 question; if there isn't an ugly routed channel in the body between the pup routs and the control cavity, why have a pickguuard covering so much of the wood?

For £70 I'd like to think you've got a real bargain. I'd love to be in your position. It looks great. (And I'm a Warwick fan)

I bought a neck from @Raslee. All went predictably easily. Every thing was good. I would look forward to dealing with Lee again anytime.

In fairness to Geoff Chalmers, when I joined SBL when it started, Geoff was already doing his own site: https://courses.discoverdoublebass.com/courses

LOL... you're right! It was someone else... It's official. I've lost it. :D

Oh.... am I mistaken? I'm thinking of a bubinga 5 string Warwick. It had seriously worn frets and a corroded bridge.... wrong person maybe?

It's ages ago now, but I did buy a Warwick 5 string from Owen. It was in an awful state. I loved it. It was great fun doing it up and getting it back to it's former glory. I also knew it was like that before we made the journey. He was completely honest. Mrs G and I went to Norwich and met Owen and the family. Really good guy to deal with. I have no hesitation about buying or selling with Owen again.

Another life-time member of SBL here. For those who've seen Scott's YouTube content from the last few years and been turned right off; I'm with you completely. Scott's drivel he keeps spouting in those vids is awful, but when you get into the serious paid-for content from Scott and the other tutors in the "SBL academy" its very different. Another tutor I've been to for lessons was Rufus Philpot. I had a series of 1-to-1 Skype lessons from him in the USA. I picked up a few points in these, but over all he's too advanced for me to gain much from. He has loads of knowledge but he goes at such a rate I wasn't able to get too much from him, and at £90 for 45mins, he wasn't cheap. SBL is fantastic value for money and the content is massive. You can also go at your own speed.