Grangur

[quote name='jonnyom900' timestamp='1495655622' post='3305712'] Bought my svt810 a while back, just after I first joined basschat. Great guy to deal with. Sorry this feedback is very very late. I really didn't know how it all worked back then. [/quote] I'm sure Lee will appreciate the feedback. Lee also has another feedback thread here. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/70088-feedback-for-raslee/page__fromsearch__1

Hey Emmanuel. Really sorry to see this. Good luck in getting it back. Someone must have known you had it there.

Nice result. I might even do the same with mine. It's funny how Fenders seem to get loved for having mojo. Warwicks are expected to look in pristine condition. Why is that? I quite like the wear on mine. It shows it's been used.

[quote name='prowla' timestamp='1495574373' post='3305057'] It's metal and has a bit of weight to it, but then has the plastic insert. [/quote] Mine too. The insert on mine is black, not that it matters.

The size is about right, but mine has a finer knurl on the sides.

Fair point Al K. Also 1 pedal will do basses, where it gets expensive buying on-board preamps for numerous basses.

[quote name='prowla' timestamp='1495560934' post='3304869'] Cheers. I do need a knob for it - Warwick don't do those push-on ones anymore. [/quote] Hmmm... what size are they? Tell me the diameter, I might have one.

[quote name='Bassmonkey' timestamp='1495555365' post='3304766'] Gear returned to me. Result. Had a short interview. Signed for it and out in 30 mins. The police explained there's little chance of charges being brought but will interview the suspect. Unless they admit the theft, it'll be closed down. It lo Is like it's been in a garage. Have cleaned everything and the amp still works. I am very happy. I have asked for a severe penalty should the scrote admit to the theft. �� [/quote] Excellent result! [quote name='Monkey Steve' timestamp='1495017314' post='3300435'] All my gear is insured so I have documents showing serial numbers, but as belt and braces once insurer (Allianz I think) sent me uv marker pens to put postcodes on all the gear. [/quote] And make a note to self: never perform again under UV light, or you'll have all the punters looking at you, just to read your postcode that's written all over your gear.

Why else did they want a British band on the bill? I'm sure you can't find a better way to spend an evening than watching your Volume and Gain knobs.

Hey cool!! That's a great improvement. Enjoy the bass, Prowla.

You might find this video useful. Scott's lessons are well worth exploring. Also, get a trial of the SBL Academy. The paid-for lessons are FAR better than the free ones. http://youtu.be/T0dr3rH7zxI

[quote name='DDR' timestamp='1495484694' post='3304161'] Thanks guys, I'm fretting about my P a bit but recon I need to just do it... will kepp this thread posted! [/quote] Looking forward to the recordings already.

The Revelation web site is good for showing where you can buy one locally. Who actually has one in stock will no doubt be another matter.

The slots in the nut will need to be widened. Also, will the bridge accept the thickness of the B string?

Not considered changing the pre in any of my basses in the past, but in another thread someone said about changing the Warwick MEC pre to an Aguilar OBP3. Wanting to find out about this I searched the greatest source of info on the subject; The BC forum. What I saw is almost references that came up were for basses for sale. So it's not a killer amp to stop folk selling basses is it? I notice the Aguilar uses an 18v source. So you'll need 2x 9v batteries. I assume you can get both in the Warwick enclosure. The other consideration is there are 3 pots, but this doesn't cover the volume and blend. So this might not be a conversion for all if you don't want to drill more holes in the bass. Here's a comparision http://youtu.be/eCOL-nUm-ps This does show the Aguilar is better, but If you don't usually boost the bass or treble to the max, will it still be better or is the difference being if you only 50%boost on the MEC, the Aguilar will only need 20%. In which case, is this worth doing? Here's another set of comparisions http://youtu.be/CwxXVRxhndA?list=RDeCOL-nUm-ps Any other thoughts from folk? Have you upgraded? Why did you do it?

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1495468620' post='3303952'] Yes, the danish oil is applied with a lint-free rag and just left to dry. Ideally give it a [u]very[/u] light dry rub over with something like 1000 or 2000 grit wet/dry paper after each coat. The wax is simply wipe on, and then buff a few minutes later. The entire process can be done in about 24-36 hours if you get your timings right. [/quote] This is a good idea to get rid off any nibby bits stuck to the wood in the oil. If you want to do this on the cheap; use the back of some old glasspaper (sandpaper to others). The back has enough friction to get rid of the lumps, but won't wear through the oil coat. This trick is also good for lacquer, except with lacquer, DO make sure the lacquer is dry enough or you'll make an unholy mess of it.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1495300723' post='3302855'] Thanks for that...now I've got GAS for a 12 string.... [/quote] Price up the cost of a re-string. That'll soon cure it. Edit: I wonder if the TR is reinforced in there? The tension on the neck will be something else.

I guess the PC/Mac had to be the answer. Thanks for posting Dan. That's great. Thanks too Nick for raising it. All I need now is a touch-screen, a good voice and nail varnish!

The one I prefer is Boiled Linseed oil. You can get it in most DIY retail sheds. It's easy to use. Apply it in a good coat with a cloth or kitchen towel. Let it soak in for a bit, then wipe it off and buff it up with an old rag. A couple of coats has it looking pretty good. A tip when using any oil - when finished rinse the cloth out in water and let it dry naturally, then throw it out. I know this doesn't sound like it makes sense. but oil cloths can self combust in a waste bin. Doing this stops the risk.