Grangur

[quote name='PaulWarning' timestamp='1487237147' post='3238201'] I always sell with a buy it now and make me an offer, you get a few chancers but it's only an email and you don't have to answer it never used BC to be honest, I think you get a better price on Gumtree and Ebay (BCers are too well informed perhaps) and only ever bought one thing of BC, (in fact thinking about it I've never bought anything off Gumtree either), and the set fee on basschat puts me off [/quote] I too use a fixed price, with "Make me an Offer". Or I use the auction starting at my bottom price or something near it. Gone are the days of starting it at 99p and hoping it'll find the market value. You'd be safe selling a Fender that way, but selling something obscure could be risky. Ebay's reserve prices are odd IMHO. You've got folk placing bids with an on-screen message saying "reserve not met". It's like "guess my bottom price". What gets me on Ebay is the 10% fees. I sell a bass at £850 and they get £85!!? If it was £42.50 it would be more acceptable. I've bought and sold on Gumtree and BC. BC is good for Fenders and Rays. Given the amount I've advertised that didn't sell on BC, I would go with you that the fees are, in my case, questionable VFM, but it does support the forum staying here.

[quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1487202939' post='3238092'] The first bid that clears the reserve if present, yes. [/quote] I've never sold using a reserve. Only sold in an auction with a BIN. When the first bid landed the BIN disappeared.

Are you playing the bass with the tone full open, or adjusted to cut the treble at all? If it's full open, then what you're hearing is the pup, pure and simple, with very little influence from the capacitor at all.

It looks like it's had its frets pulled. They're careful not to show you the positions of the dots on the side of the neck.

[quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1487009055' post='3236231'] That is the way it has always been (well, at least the last 10 or so years). The buy it now price has always gone as soon as there is a bid hight enough to clear any reserve. That is why bidding on any buy it now auction starts with someone bidding low just to make sure someone doesn't buy it now away from them. [/quote] [quote name='bigjimmyc' timestamp='1487147203' post='3237413'] Huh! Must have been my imagination / old age! High time there was a proper competitor for them. [/quote] The Buy It Now price disappears as soon as the first bid gets placed.

[quote name='markdavid' timestamp='1487152940' post='3237481'] Im not an expert on this by any means but I am guessing the large pole pieces of the Quarter pounder pickup are a large factor in output, there is a mod for the weak J pickup in the short scale Squier Jaguar where you put a magnet on top of it and it boosts the output by boosting the magnetic field and I would think the large pole pieces in the Quarter pounder pickup work on the same principle regarding output [/quote] This. I'd also add that resistance is also dependant on the number of turns in the coil AND the gauge of the wire used. So without knowing all this resistance if the coil doesn't really tell you a lot. The truth is a pickup works through induction, not resistance.

I don't change any strings often. I've had chromed on the fretless for about 4 years. They're fine for some smore. The chromes on my corvette are getting a little dead for the sound I want. I generally keep Elixirs on the others and they last for 2 years or so.

[quote name='project_c' timestamp='1487121132' post='3237341'] Yes, a ruler just like that, I bought one that's metric on one side, and imperial on the other side. [/quote] Many thanks. I'm another advocate for setting up by feel. With the cappo on, I feet at the last and want just a small gap when i tap in the centre of the neck. I couldn't tell you what that gap is, but I know it's right when I see it. When setting up for someone else I would do the same, unless they can tell me a measurement, which I would happily do. I used to measure string height with a coin too. Any measure will do, if it suits the player.

I warmed to them a bit, for a while when I was asked by another BCer to build one for him He bought the body in and sent it to me. I built it and even added to the relicing to get it to look more natural because IMHO it looked a bit like it had been whacked with a black stick.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1484754189' post='3218124'] Really does look like (a woman's) body. [/quote] Now, now, lets not get personal. I wonder what you'd look like when you're 300 years old and sliced up Isn't the one on the left male and the one on the right female?

Just a thought here... summarising some of what's been said: - the most credible relics are Fenders - Sunburst is boring.. So taking this point on a bit. I have, for a long time thought Fender style instruments are a bit "same old, same old". That's to say one seafoam green/ sunburst / CA red/ LP Blue with a white/ tort/ black pick guard etc is much like another. So relicing is a way to break that mold and add some personalisation. I'm not into relicing, but I'm not normally into Fenders; mainly because I find the look boring. (I hope nobody is offended by this. It is only MHO)

Have to confess here when I responded I wasn't familiar with the Warrior Custom. No offence taken from MC. I believe I can do a good job on refretting, but thinking it through it would be sensible to get an experienced person to re-cut the slots. If the sides of a neck were straight and no radius to the fingerboard it could be straightforward. But having had time to reflect; these things do apply and it would be too easy for a thin saw blade ti wander. After all, it's not just one slot. If you want to do a refret, get the slots cut, then I'd be happy to work only with you. (Yeah, ok. It's a weakness of mine to dive in with an offer of help, then get cold feet sometimes when I think through the potential complications)

[quote name='Tee' timestamp='1487061872' post='3236566'] What if someone buys a guitar/bass from previous owners who have naturally worn it in over years. Is that posing? I think we need to know what's allowed here, in case the instrument police come calling. Perhaps a COA stating where each ding and knock happened. [/quote] Who said you could come in here and complicate this enjoyable negativity with your logic and intelligent dilemma? That's the trouble with this country; there's too much intelligent thought going on!

Hi Russ, in Bishops Stortford and I've done a few re-frets. I've not re-fretted a fretless though. I'd be happy to help you on it if you need a hand.

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is a pickup bush?

[quote name='Cuzzie' timestamp='1487026170' post='3236446'] Hmmm, just about to receive a Sandberg MarloweDK. I think Sandberg does probably the best and most natural relic, and they age the wood a little, who knows how much difference it makes, but i tell you what from what i have heard and read its not an excuse for a crap bass, its a quality bass that happens to look like its done the business [/quote] "Age the wood a little". Are you sure? The wood was 100+ years old when they cut the tree down. So, how many years do they manage to add? It's ok. I appreciate you mean they stain it a bit to give it a different look. I saw an ad once for a "Fender Road worn in mint condition". seemed to me he'd missed the point.

[quote name='speshul91' timestamp='1487044236' post='3236518'] I've got an ibanez gsr200sm thats a pj coat me 179 a couple of years ago. [/quote] I think he's after something that looks like a Fender. He's ignored my offer of an Ibanez PJ for £125.

[quote name='project_c' timestamp='1486857931' post='3235153'] I realise this is stating the obvious, but for the past few years I've been doing my own setups purely by feel, and then on a whim I decided to buy a string gauge the other day, and lo and behold, it's amazing the difference a simple little ruler makes. It's cleared up a lot of things. I've learnt that I like my action lower than the Fender 'preset', the strings on all my basses were pretty much bang on 4/64ths at the 17th fret (as opposed to 6/64ths). But I like a bit of fret buzz so that's fine. I've also learnt that my pickup heights were all over the place on all 3 of my P-basses, and when I adjusted them on my fretless (they were way too low), the difference in tone was huge. I also learnt that on my Jazz everything was perfectly aligned and I didn't need to adjust anything, which is weird. If any of the basses had major issues I'd still take them to a pro, but for regular general maintenance these things are invaluable, I can't believe I've left it this long to get one. [/quote] Do you mean "String Action Height Guage" ? Like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/String-Action-Gauge-Guitar-Luthier-Tool-TO13-/140907329240 I use an Allen key under the string, over the fret. Usually I set the bridge height using a 1.5mm key under each string at the 24th fret. Isn't that the same thing?

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1487021968' post='3236368'] Never seen the point. Age and wear = mojo. Relicing does not confer mojo.. [/quote] This. I can see that Jaco would have a battered instrument as he'd been playing it for years and he "earned" the right to look credible with it. Most folk with a relic simply look like they don't look after their things. I certainly don't get the look of the battered body and pristine neck