The Burpster

Dave, it did take a while to come but the VT-1 is very very good. Its a lot more clever and versatile than I gave it credit for or expected. I have now with about an hour of fiddling got exactly the tone I was looking for.... So thank you for a great piece of kit. One thing, while I appreciate why it was designed the way it is, it would be really cool if you could use the line in to play MP3 (or in my case drum machine) whilst in an effects loop as opposed to 'just' through the headphone side of the system. Just my thoughts.

[quote name='eude' post='862485' date='Jun 9 2010, 06:49 PM']I'd be really interested to see how that came out dude? Sounds real interesting, plus I'd still get my "MarkBass Sound"... Eude[/quote] I'll do some pics tomoro eve. I've been out for dinner tonite as its my birthday........

Eude I had the same dilemma as you but I made my practice box of doom myself as what I wanted just wasnt't available... Used a @@@ked Rolland cube 30x as the donor cab. Stripped it and made a (mesa cribbed design) mount in the back for a PJB D-200. Re kitted it with a new Celestion green Ceramic mag 10" 200w speaker and recovered it in tolex. sound wise it was a bit too clean and hi fi for me so now I have a DHA VT-1 through the effects loop to give it that 'valve pre-amp' tone...... Whilst its not a Mesa, it is remarkably light, compact and loud enough........ My g'tarist who is very critical is very impressed with it. If you can find a @@@ked Roland cube to act as donor I have have no probs doing the mods to it so you can put the same bits (or a LMK 250 which was my other choice) in it..... Just a thought...... I must get some pics of it and put it in the build diaries section.....

Silddx, Oddly I just bought a load of kit from HD and they were spot on! Included in that were 3 D-tuners that are all now fitted. I had to strip mine and put the correct design key in as I wanted to keep the PRS ears in them (dead easy to do) and I did rebuild mine with Lithium greas but onlybecause I have it. Vaseline will work just as well but only use tiny amounts and it will befine.... Enjoy, these are great bits of kit!

Isnt the Pino sig model pink......? I'd have one of those....

Chris, Zoom MRT-3. Works for us. Should be able to get one cheapish off t'bay, e.g. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zoom-MRT3-drum-machine-mint-condition-/190400925967?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Drum_Machines_Grooveboxes&hash=item2c54c7910f"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zoom-MRT3-drum-machi...=item2c54c7910f[/url] If I wasnt using mine next weekend you could've borrowed it.

HI there and welcome aboard. I havent heard of a blk/white split so rare definately. Original? not so sure, you would have to checkwith Hohner to ask if it wsas supplied like that or its a re-fin. Price-wise thats an OK price, not an absolute 'yippee bargain' moment tho...... £100 or less would've been. If its mint or v.good+ then you have a very lite, very playable little bass. I had a passive B2b for while and enjoyed owning it but not playing it..... I couldnt get on with the neck, but I do have large hands. Quite a few on here have/have had them and whilst they are a substitute for the original (carbon fibre and very expensive) Steinberger XL, they make a good go of it but sadly are not in the same league as teh original. If you accept it for what it is, a cheap and cheerful copy of an ogininal design and it plays well and fits your criteria for buying it then, then it will serve you well.

As long as you are sure of what it is you want then buying on-line is a great idea. It does help ifyou have a wee bit of an idea about set ups as it may need tweeking when it arrives but if these two issues are sorted then go for it. A lot (if not all ) of basses in you local shop will have had sweaty 'erberts playing with it unless you insist on a brand new one from the stock room if indeed they have one. GAK, Dolphin, Thomann, absolute music, and bass direct all sell absolute brand newbies as they sell direct from stock, I would recommend all of them.

Predictably..... 1. PRS EB IV. 2. as above 3. as above 4. as above 5. as above

we use one of these. [url="http://www.zoom.co.jp/english/products/mrt3"]http://www.zoom.co.jp/english/products/mrt3[/url] Its a bit of a pain programming it, but it produces pretty good tones and is spot on time wise.

PRS EBIV. D'add. Chromes Neck pup on full Bridge pup on 3/4 Slightly + Bass - treble. Mesa Wlkbt Scout. Graphic flat gain as high without clipping or o/d ing. = creamy lovelyness. Nothin' else has got anywhere near.

The RBX 374 is a good bass. In fairness that VMJ is a pretty good buy too. You are correct there is a huge amount of choice.

I agree Wayne, a bit unneccassary I feel. Keep the rants to yourself please or take it into offtopic - but not on here where there is clearly someone young wanting to start up and who doesnt have the benefit of lots of folks around that can help clearly its a big decision too. Also remember that £250 is a lot of money to some people and making sure they do the right thing is a big issue.

PRS SE Mike Mushok baritone...... Whilst I am sh!ote on mine it is lovely in the hands of my g'tard and one day when I have retired I will get my head 'round ickle fretboards..... [url="http://www.prsguitars.com/mushok/index.html"]http://www.prsguitars.com/mushok/index.html[/url]

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='835629' date='May 12 2010, 08:11 PM']That's just plain old false advertising.[/quote] Wayne sadly its not! Probably only god and Fenders marketing dept know where they are made, but they are indeed geniune Fender starter packs...... [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starcaster_by_Fender"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starcaster_by_Fender[/url] also see here on amazon..... [url="http://www.amazon.com/Starcaster-284800108-Fender-J-Bass/dp/B00243FOLQ/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1273692414&sr=8-12"]http://www.amazon.com/Starcaster-284800108...414&sr=8-12[/url]

Ovation mags are bullet proof (no actually bomb proof) solid workhorses. 2ndhand they would I guess work out pretty similar in value providing similar condition. However if your H1 is mint and the Mag is a dog then hang onto your H1 - No brainer...! If you like the Mag (and I suggest play the hell out of it and thru your rig first before making any kind of decision) and you are happy with its condition then you and only you can make that decision. You're right in some respects tho - the Mag is quite a rare beast and will be starting to appreciate in value and the H1 is just another H1. Oh and BTW if you get some pics of the Mag posted on here several of the guys and gals own them so they can tell you if its been messed about.

check this site under bass set up. [url="http://www.tunemybass.com/"]http://www.tunemybass.com/[/url]

Looks are very 'Jetsons' to me, but it will I'm sure play and sound fantastic as EBMM do. Big up to up to you for stating your individuality.

[quote name='DreadAlert' post='831730' date='May 8 2010, 08:20 PM']Think I will be. Its either the SR300 or the GSR200. Also, what's the difference between the SR300 and the SR300m?[/quote] The M stands for Maple and that refers to the fretboard material, Maple as a generalisation has a slightly brighter tone than rosewood but that is not an exact science. Both those models are excellent basses for what they cost - budget Ibanez and Yamaha are by far the most consistent and reliable VFM in their price bracket. Of your 2 above , I'd personally go for the GSR as the P and J style pick ups can be be IMHO more versatile then the 2 soap-bars in the SR - the other key feature that I'm not keen on in the SR is that Strat style jack exit. Looks very prone to chipping body work to me, and if you find bass is not for you, chips and dings are easily seen when you come to sell it on.

I was a bit confuzzed upon reading your post but I think I have it now. You want the mounting nuts. A bolt or screw has a male thread a nut has an internal or female thread. Tuners are secured by small wood screws (normally 4 on the back of the headstock and the mounting nut and washer that goes through the headstock from the front. These might be tricky to get hold but someone will have some.

[quote name='ian' post='827919' date='May 4 2010, 09:33 PM']hi my dads got a very early stingray well early 80s and just wanted to check is there a way of getting it took back to wood finish many thanks[/quote] This has been covered several times in repairs and tech so of to there you go. Several paint experts on here.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='826893' date='May 3 2010, 10:15 PM']If you are happy believing that, then be my guest I don't intend to pursue the argument in that direction with you. Most basses, I agree come with shims but we are talking thin bits of plastic in fact thinner than a thin fender pick.[/quote] GW, I would hope this is a lively debate not an argument - although I agree with Buzz above, that you are making a lot presumptions in your above post. Shims do not have to be made of plastic in fact the shims I use in my basses and my g'tarists guitars are now thin .015" slivers of copper sheet these are easily added to build the correct and minimum necessary shim. A very quick remedy is to shove a piece of plastic sheet in the neck pocket but its a remedy I avoid. Even with a large amount of correction to be sought you do not need a thick shim (common false belief) but a correctly made and shaped shim at the body end of the neck pocket. The BA II + III were bought out as a result of folks concerns about not being a direct replacement and were developed as such and even LQ states the Original BA is not a direct Fender replacement and as far as I'm aware never was intended to be. So your point about the BA I is I'm afraid a bit lame. [url="http://www.leoquan.com/html/products.html"]http://www.leoquan.com/html/products.html[/url] It would seem we will have to agree to disagree on the shimming subject. I don't think it would serve any purpose in debating the various merits of the earlier and later series PRS basses, other than to polarise our views further. Your Bass-5 and CE bass-4 are indeed very sweet looking instruments and I'm sure you're just as pleased to own them as I am mine.

Chris, my opine FWIW is that if the idea of splitting the wire or disturbing the solder is likely to bring you out in hive because you are devaluing it then dont do it. If its not that, then de-solder it and get on with the job - as prospective owner buying a '64 of someone that claimed it was original I'd be well p!ssed off if I found out that you'd put a pre in it anyway (and it doesn't matter how good you are disguising, it would be pretty easy to see if most of the electrics have been disturbed). So to me you have 2 options only i) get on with or ii) leave it well alone. Deceiving a future purchaser (or even trying) further down the line isn't worth your reputation (or worse). Bob.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='826755' date='May 3 2010, 07:18 PM']Why would you want to compromise and shimming a prized instrument for the sake of an ill fitting bridge? Nein Danke! You'll end up shifting the geometry of the instrument and with that, moving the neck away from the ideal sitting position in the body slot your negative results are loss of sustain and increase of dead spots on the neck...[/quote] Sorry but that is misleading at best, and factually wrong at worse. 1 of my PRSs has a shim in the neck pocket. It makes no difference to the tone at all if done properly, in fact that bass has the best sustain of all 5 of mine. I agree that if you believe its not worth the effort for the sake of bridge then its not worth it, but as to creating dead spots in the neck and a loss of sustain that just isn't correct. As to BA bridges being ill fitting, well I'm sure the 1000s of happy quiet owners would disagree with your comments. They were and are designed as a direct drop on replacement for the BBOT bridges, I'm sure the design team would be very pleased to hear your comments about their 'ill fitting' product which incidentally Fender believe are so bad that they fitted them to several of their production models.