
The Burpster
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Check out this months Guitar and Bass comic..... Mesa Have bought out a 300w M3 Carbine to replace the Walkabout, and its well...... I'll let you decide, me? I've just had slight accident requiring laundry and tissues!
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However close it is/isnt to your dream bass, I'll bet there will still be a Friday afternoon one that is more like a donkey than a stallion!
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Just to counter the 'battery/have it plugged in thing' - the Tascam will play MP3 and bass for up to 3 hrs solid continuous (longest I've managed to endure it, and it was still going strong) use before needing recharging - so it is incredibly portable plus with the memory card you can store a ridiculous amount of tracks.....
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Guys and gals, this is your section..... ( I aspire to be joining your ranks soon!) So my question is this - Would you prefer a sub forum in here for buying and selling your wares or a separate one in the for sale section? Bob,
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Neil, I find the Tascam MP-BT is all I need...... Does it need to be an amp...? This will do all you need.
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[quote name='eubassix' post='1082006' date='Jan 8 2011, 12:35 PM']The bass in the Overwater Custom(s) is a different but very similar bass (have look at the fretboard-end). Pretty sure this must be 'welnek' s old bass which was listed (but didn't sell) here last year. The bass was modelled on the one featured in the Overwater Custom Gallery :- [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=85138&hl="]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=85138&hl=[/url] [url="http://www.overwaterbasses.com/gallery.htm"]http://www.overwaterbasses.com/gallery.htm[/url] IIRC it eventually sold on ebay for c.£1k, which must have been the bargain of the year for somebody looking-for a Custom-6 (Overwater or other) !![/quote] if you look at the pics of welneks listing and this bass from the OP there are clearly not the same - so I cant see how your post is helping or otherwise to the trade the OP is looking to make. Please keep it on track and accurate as per the posting rules for this forum .
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For a different take on the trad. 4-a-side headstock, jazz layout its ok. Not keen on the scratchie but they are just trying to be different. It might look pretty cool in a different colour scheme.
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Rich, you saying the Statii really don't move... at all?
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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1077903' date='Jan 4 2011, 09:15 PM']Fun though fiddling aint it? [/quote] It is but its also essential maintainence and it gets you on a whole new level of intimacy with your instrument.
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[quote name='bh2' post='1077152' date='Jan 4 2011, 11:25 AM']I think I'd err to the CV. The HWs have the same hardware as the MIM standards (?)[/quote] 'fraid not, its US hardware and US pups.....
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My job here is done...!
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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1076701' date='Jan 3 2011, 07:53 PM'][url="http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html"]Here's[/url] another good guide too.[/quote] Nice one, not seen that before, (hmmmm thinks 'should I have a sticky for set-up help sites....?) [quote name='cameltoe' post='1076917' date='Jan 3 2011, 11:02 PM']Just tweaked it now, feels better already. Had to remove all bolts, got girlfriend to hold strings to fretboard and pull back on headstock slightly, whilst I supported heel of neck and tightened truss rod 1/4 turn. Just tweaked the action as well, only on E and G strings as the saddles always seemed a bit high to my eyes. Much, much easier to play already. Will give it a good 24 hours now and see what it's like then. Is a 1/4 turn usually enough to compensate for seasonal and inital playing-in changes to the relief?[/quote] Well done fella, and welcome to the dark side..... 1/4 turn for single action (like yours) and 1/8 turn for double action is normally enough to sort out issues, however, whatever the issue I only ever adjust by that amount in one go and then leave it to settle. It might not be enough and youmay need to tweak it a bit more or less but remember you are effectivley persuading a piece of wood to bend, so baby steps is best....
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[quote name='cameltoe' post='1076182' date='Jan 3 2011, 12:07 PM']True. As far as the procedure goes, I'm confident I can take the neck off, adjust the truss rod and refit neck, but it's the finer details I worry about, like possibly needing to adjust the bridge to compensate, the nut profile, and the specific way of making the adjustments (that you've highlighted above well, cheers). I guess I've got nothing to lose though, by making a quarter-turn adjustment and seeing if it improves it? If it does, I've saved myself a trip to Exeter (1hr 30mins drive) and the cost, plus the length of time without my bass. If it doesn't, then back to plan A. Just to get this straight though, I believe the truss rod now has excessive relief, so I'd need to tighten truss rod by turning to the right, no more than a quarter turn yes? I may give it a go.[/quote] CT, ok so I may have inspired you so, set yourself up for this - kids out the way, good lady out shopping. Clear area to work in. DONT RUSH. Your truss rod hasnt excess relief the neck has. So apart from looking down it from the body do you know to measure relief? Fret at 1st + 13th fret and measure or visualise the gap at the 6th fret - that is the relief. Fast low actions (straighter neck) are generally 1mm or less, more than that is a higher action and probably where you are now. This will give you a giuide so that you know what you are looking for when you have finished. If you need a guide as to how to the other twiddly bits, then this is a good simple guide..... [url="http://www.tunemybass.com"]http://www.tunemybass.com[/url] If you really want to get into this and know your onions then this is all you'll ever need, and will be the best £10 you ever spend.... [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Electric-Guitar-Great-Player/dp/0879306017/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1294077991&sr=8-3"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Electric-Guit...7991&sr=8-3[/url] [quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1076358' date='Jan 3 2011, 03:19 PM']It's worth pointing out that not all truss rods go the same way. Answers on this thread are probably right for the OP's RW, but if anyone else is thinking of tweaking their truss rod, use common sense and try it out.[/quote] OK so now I'm intregued, I've set up American, German and Jap basses, electrics and accoustics single and double action trussrods..... can you let me know which truss rods are not a std righthand thread....?
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[quote name='cameltoe' post='1075811' date='Jan 2 2011, 10:06 PM']The fact that people recommend leaving it a day or so after adjustment only serves to reinforce my lack of confidence! I'd have to remove neck, adjust truss rod,[b] [color="#FF0000"]leave a day[/color][/b], refit neck, restring, probably leave it a while after restringing, then if it's not right I have to go through the process again. That's fine, but someone more experienced may be able to tell whether the neck needs more adjustment whilst it's still off the bass, and without going through the whole process of setting it back up to be played. That's without the fact that the bridge may need to be adjusted to get the best out of the neck at the same time! Don't think I have the confidence for an instrument I love so much![/quote] The bit I've highlighted above needs some clarity. You don't leave the neck off the body for a day, under tension (this is very bad)...! Proceedure is - slacken strings. Undo neck bolts, remove neck ( I leave the strings attached now), tweak t-rod, and then replace neck on body. Retune. LEAVE it in that state for a day (you can play it as much as you like in that time!) and then measure the relief again. If it needs a further little tweak then repeat the proceedure. THATS what the 'leave it a day' means.... The truss rod's job is to equalise the assymetric mechanical tension that the strings put a piece of wood under (the neck structure). The neckwood couldn't cope without some assistance, however the neck wood and the trussrod work together to form this balance and wood being from an organic substance needs a little while to adjust. As to the confidence bit.... I cant possibly give you any, but I can encourage you that this is not a big, difficult or scary procedure if you set your stall out and take your time. Invest in a GOOD Philips #2 screwdriver for the neck bolts, and get intimate with your bass. Mansons are a very good luthier, but will charge you for this proceedure, and if you keep going there every time it settles or your change strings etc, its going to get very expensive.
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[quote name='redstriper' post='1075959' date='Jan 3 2011, 01:00 AM']PS: Forget all that rot I was on about before, what I really meant to say was................................. [b]Squiers are for losers.[/b][/quote] or..... [b]Fenders are for sheep![/b] [color="#696969"][size=1]small pint, I apologise in advance if in anyway I offend any Fender owners in the making of this comment. The comment is made in the interests of a comedy moment and in no way undermines Fender, their products, agents or players in anyway. It does not imply that Fenders or their subsidieries are in anyway inferior to any other Fender product or to undermine any Fender employees, agents or palyers. It is not intended to undermine sheep thier owners or agents in anyway, and no sheep or Fender basses were harmed during the making of this comment. [/size][/color]
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Sounds like a simple tweak on the truss rod is required and if thats beyond you then get a tech to do it. If its not then righty tighty, lefty loosey, and about 1/4 turn should do the trick.... Its finbe for it to settle after a period of time, as the strings strech to a stable length, you will end up tightening then a little from new. Thsi in turn can require a little balancing of the equation with the truss rod. Its completely natural an nothing to worry about.
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[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1075' date='Jan 2 2011, 06:30 PM']Am I allowed to disagree politely with a moderator? I'll keep it clean though my feelings and reservations with the above statement are angrier than what I am writing here. [b]Yes a Squier will always be a Squier[/b], [color="#FF0000"][b]I give you that.[/b][/color] Is a name really that important?[/quote] I can understand some getting wound up about this topic, but your line above clearly states you agree with me, but then you're disagreeing...? A squire is not a Fender [u][b]fact[/b][/u]. Nowhere did I say that a Fender is [u]better[/u] than a Squire, YOU interpreted that because it supports your stance. I am not a Fender fan, why? because they have at best shonky QC, same as Gibson. A decent Squire CV will be better than a friday afternoon Fender from any origin. I very much doubt I'll ever own another Fender because of that anomoly (and I have owned several!). However angry you get (and why I'm not sure) you wont dissuade a lot of folks thinking that Fenders are the ONLY guitars on the planet and the BEST guitars on the planet, I had this same argument only last week at work. The guy would not back down that other guitars are made better and have better QC - he was so completely blinded by the big F that reason had left the building. You like me are clearly in a priviledged position to pretty much be able to get whichever basses you want, so I'm not sure why you are so wound up about this.... If the OP or anyone else for that matter believes that they are 'progressing' to a Fender and has set their heart on one, then however much you getting upset or me giving reasoned argument is about as likely to sway their decision as my chances of becoming the next pope..... Let them make their own mind up, spend their own cash and then become a 'dyed in the wool' Fenderhead or someone like me that probably wont ever buy another. Oh and BTW I still stand by my first post.
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I did a pimp job on a H1 P and that was a fine bass - It was even better after I'd finished it - It is a great MIA Fender IMO, but be prepared for the paint to be deliacate tho' as its thin & cellulose (its dedsigned that way to look used quicker!). If its a worthy upgrade? only you know that, but I would say that an H1 is an excellent platform from which to make your ultimate fender P. A Squire CV will still be a Squire CV and however much you want to kid yourself and others, it isnt a Fender. But ultimately the choice is yours....
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Is it a P or J width neck ? I cant quite work it out from your pics. It looks very Ovation Viper ish but with an added Lace sensor P pup.... Very Very interesting looking bass..... I didnt think I'd hear myself saying that about a fender again...
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SOLD / FENDER RUMBLE 150 COMBO,AS NEW,£165.00
The Burpster replied to slaptone's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
Just a pointer - its secondhand in 'as new' condition - not Brand new. You may be putting potential buyer off by listing it as such, and Only traders could list anything as 'New' on here. Traders have to be sponsors to be able to sell. details I know but on here, the detail is everythign to some folks... -
Jesus H christ I'm astounded it plays at all with that nut.......! A new Graphtec will cost you around £6 - they are dead easy to fit and a decent Bass Tech will be able to so it for you. They should do a ful set up to (if that is beyond you) and might look at shiming the neck if the action is as bad as you say. Neither of these jobs are biggies but will make such a masive difference if done properly.... Shame your so far away I wouldnt mind doing that myself....
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Where are the EUB stockists/shops in England?
The Burpster replied to boostybaboon's topic in EUB and Double Bass
or The Gallery in Camden - also NS stockists and have others in too..... -
[quote name='Bassassin' post='1074107' date='Jan 1 2011, 01:31 AM']How can you say that??? [i]Jesus[/i] played a 72 Jazz. Probably. J.[/quote] If he was any good at his job Jesus probably made a '72 Jazz.......