neepheid

Pfft, if you see it, you'll want it too. I guess that would solve my problem from a gear abstinence point of view

Reverb listing says Toronto.

Just checking - obviously if you're using it in combo mode then you can only attach one additional 8 ohm cab because the internal speaker is already presenting an 8 ohm load to the amp. That will take you down to the 4 ohm minimum. If you're detaching the head then yes, you can use it with two 8 ohm cabs and it's up to you how you connect them - each cab separately to the two outputs on the amp, or daisychained off one output (using the parallel link on one of the cabs - assuming it is parallel, surely all cabs are but make damn sure) but pick one scheme or the other. I guess it depends what cables you have to hand.

Are we talking a Promethean head or a combo here?

Yes, it's rare. No, I'm not telling you what it is Import duties are a fact of life when buying oddball stuff, you have to factor them in before you buy (+25% back of a fag packet maths will do) and judge whether or not the whole escapade is acceptable to you or not. I imported a Yamaha BB1200 from Japan (Ishibashi) and maybe the yen was having a hard time but even with shipping and VAT/duties it still worked out cheaper than sourcing one locally, so it can work out sometimes. RE: Epiphone, I dunno what else to do, I've tried to do things the "right" way and have been frustrated at every turn. I'll probably sit and stew about it for a while longer and wait for any other pre-adjudications come in.

Epiphone don't like money it would seem. I tried to source the loom via a couple of dealers - one just said no, they aren't a parts dealer, so I aimed high and asked Andertons. Epiphone told them no, they can't procure it for me, it's for warranty repairs only. That's lovely - how do out of warranty repairs work then? Just chuck it in the bin and buy a new bass, yeah? Up yours, Epiphone! Anyway, I'm in bigger bother than that. Spied a bass I've always fancied, and the only thing that stopping me pulling the trigger is that it's in Canada and it's a bit overpriced. My powers of abstinence are weakening... if they drop the price (because it's been up on Reverb for 3 months) then I'm screwed.

Not really - I do try to make sure I rotate around all my basses. I am a lazy boi though, so sometimes at home I'll favour the Epiphone Jack Casady, because even unplugged, it's loud enough to hear over laptop speakers. For when I can't even be bothered finding a cable, let alone an amp

Regarding the Z3/Z7/SBMM Ray34 conundrum - I think all SBMM basses are horribly overpriced by the time they make it over here and I really don't see where the extra money went. Up to you if you think it's worth it. If you go Sire, whichever one you choose you're going to get an 18V preamp, well rolled fretboard edges, passive/active operation to name but three of the things a Ray34 won't have. Z3 or Z7? Well, depends what you want. The "advantages" of the Z7 are - a neck pickup, a preamp with more features (giving you a mid sweep and a passive tone control - the preamp in the Z3 is fixed frequency three band and the passive option is just a get-out-of-jail-free card - no tone shaping as far as I know) and stainless steel frets. If you can live without these things, get the Z3 and pocket the difference, happy days. Another thing to factor in is I think Sire have done a small redesign on the Z7 and the neck pickup has been improved, at least aesthetically with four fat pole pieces instead of the regular small 8 pole piece Jazz pickup in the current ones. So it might be worth holding off if you think that's important and you want a Z7. I would ignore all campfire stories about QC (and yes, IMO they are individual occurrences with no correlation between them - no-one here has the statistical overview to be able to make blanket statements about an entire manufacturer's or factory's output, it's utter tosh. Every factory makes the occasional "Friday afternoon special" - so what? Return it if you're not happy). For a contrary data point to any doom and gloom you might have heard, my Z7 arrived in perfect condition and my only beef with it were the knobs, which is a personal preference I was happy to correct on my own. I think I would have preferred the Z3's knobs to be honest with you. Hope that mini rant helped

I buy blind all the time - if it's new and it's bad I'll return it, if it's used and bad I'll fix it. I live in the relative middle of nowhere, the bleeding edge of civilisation so not much trying out options up here that don't involve a 6 hour round trip.

An update to my practice gear. I don't have anything set up, I already monopolise enough space with a dozen basses! So, because I don't have a permanently set up practice rig, this is me in order of laziness: 1) Epiphone Jack Casady acoustically with laptop speakers - this actually works better than you might think. 2) Yamaha Sessioncake headphone amp + aux in from laptop/phone + whatever bass 3) TC Electronic BH250 (toneprint for FX) + bluetooth receiver for aux in + whatever bass 4) TC Electronic BH250 + Pedalboard + bluetooth receiver for aux in + whatever bass 5) TC Electronic BH250 (toneprint for FX) + Markbass NY121 cab + bluetooth receiver for aux in + whatever bass 6) 5) TC Electronic BH250 + Markbass NY121 cab + pedalboard + bluetooth receiver for aux in + whatever bass I rarely venture above 3...

Thanks for the heads up, but I had to replace it all kinda "now now now" and I had the good fortune of stumbling upon a killer local second hand deal on a Markbass Mini CMD121P IV. Hopefully that's me sorted for at least the next dozen years

It's mostly BS, I reckon - mostly people parroting some vague scare story they've heard and wanting to be seen to join the internet dogpile. I used and abused a RedSub BT5110 (Ibanez Promethean's more down-at-heel sibling) as my main amp for nearly 12 years. Twice weekly rehearsals at war volume, hundreds of gigs. Left it in car boots over winter, brought it into hot venues dripping with condensation (only a couple of times and I was absolutely bricking it). It finally crapped out but it even had the decency to wait until the very end of a gig. I was quite sad when it went pop. Would have bought another one if they still made them.

Ach weel, when it's time, it's time. I too will miss the gig reports, but I reckon you'll get bored and join something else. I don't think you're done yet

FWIW, I would give a band member in your position a pass on lugging gear, but I guess standing up for long periods is also a risk, so fair dos. Always a shame to call time, but glad to hear you're not having a total clearout. Keep well!

Not like you... (says he, getting all ackshually about misconceptions about how G&L OMG mode works...)

I'll ask the boring question then - why are you wanting to change the stock bridge? What do you want to achieve from this change?

Indeed - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guyker-Saddles-Replacement-Precision-Instruments/dp/B0D963CB2W

Nope, OMG mode is achieved by putting a capacitor across only one coil, putting them slightly out of balance and providing a perceived bass boost - because brains are soft, squidgy, suggestible things. No extra hot anything, just a little bit of Leo magic.

Is it wrong of me to want the body of the Sterling but the neck and bridge of the EBMM?

I do not like that bridge. If there are no mutes, there's no point in the plate being that bloody big.

What kind of Stingray? Got a pic of what you're trying to replace?

I played my 1978 BB1200 last night at band rehearsal and it was wonderful, as always. Super punchy, cut through the drums, guitar and vox like a circular saw. I really hope I never have to sell this bass.

The only time I ever scrubbed the Squier logo off a bass was for humour (well, also because the headstock had a silver finish and the body was blue and it just looked weird). My current Squier Affinity (Jaguar H) is wearing its identity loud and proud.

I was off as soon they brought out the 80 grit - I don't want scrubbed with that!

That might calm down the rampant FOMO