neepheid

I hate it, fug it, I'm selling up.

Geezo - 10 days in and already I'm playing chicken with Facebook Marketplace - what's wrong with me? I've been trying to channel it though - I've started a 2026 want list instead. Because if you think I'm doing back to back years of abstinence, you're sorely mistaken!

I'd say that depends upon your usage. I only change my rounds when I realise that they sound like flats. They're usually utterly shagged when I change them, because I'm a skinflint. Old ones go straight in the bin.

And the moral of this story is... you need more medium scale basses, duh!

Heh, just snuck in before you

The tuners' tensions can be adjusted - see those little holes just below the buttons? I'd be amazed if you got the proper tool lumped in with the bass because they always seem to get lost. I'm sure it's been discussed here, but I can't find it so here's a TB thread all about it (as well as ideas for what to do if you don't have the official tool) - https://www.talkbass.com/threads/yamaha-bb-tuner-wrench-anyone-know-where-to-buy.718816/ EDIT - had another search and found it - https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/470267-old-adjustable-machine-heads-tuners/

Nice score! I think this is a good bass for £499. They're frankly taking the piddle at north of £900 new though. It's easy to point at the fixed pickup. If it sounds good to me, I could have overlooked it because if I remember correctly, it was more of a gimmick than anything else on the original Grabber (ie. didn't do a lot to the tone whether it was forward or back). Maybe as a former Gibson G-3 and Ripper owner I'm a bit pickier than some, but for me the main concern for me is the shape of the pickguard. It's less obvious on the black one, but the way it doesn't follow the edge of the body is criminal to me, particularly galling as they've managed to do it better in the past with previous Grabber/G-3/Ripper shaped confections... So they do a bang up job of the body shape and the headstock, then fluff their lines with the pickguard (specifically the area where the controls are)? I just can't see past it, it would irritate the devil out of me at any price point (especially £900+) but like I said, as a former owner of cousins of these basses, I'm perhaps more picky than some. Sounds like you're enjoying your newest acquisition though, so I'm chuffed for you and I don't want to yuck your yum too much. Keep on enjoying it and to hell with what anyone else (especially this grizzled grump) has to say about it!

Beware the hype (or anti-hype) machine. Most of them will be grizzling about the lack of moveable pickup, or the price, I reckon. EDIT: SNAP! (kinda)

Heh, the 'Spoons do that too! To answer the OP's question, in the rock covers yes the guitarist brings two guitars. And it has been needed occasionally - potentiometer gremlins got him one time that I remember at least.

I know, but you'd be surprised sometimes - I have a friend whose name is Saara. She told me a story that one time she spelled her name out to some customer service type over the phone and they asked her if she was sure that's how it's spelled! Her own effing name! Still makes me chuckle when I think about it to this day.

From this: To this: And another thing - if your truss rod adjusts at the headstock, wouldn't the bar frustrate that, if placed to catch all strings?

That's a colloquial expression of surprise, right? But in case you're serious, yes, that genuinely happened, I did not make it up.

These are my weapon of choice these days. Yes, it does mean that one string is not quick release, but the way it's made means it's compact. There's no need for anything on the lowest string - it's close enough to the nut that if you put enough winds on the tuner post it will make a fine break angle without assistance. Also, these units have the added benefit that if the original 2 string round tree is in a place where it's not in line with one of the tuners, then you can re-use the existing hole for one of the screws in the new retainer, so no holes to fill, and you can screw it down, make sure it's straight then use the retainer itself as its own guide/template for the second pilot hole.

I had one of those bar type retainers pull out of the face of the headstock before - I won't use them again.

That's not a universal fact - some had alder bodies which were a whole lot lighter than the maple ones...

Never say never. Basses (especially higher value ones) are the first things to go if you get yourself in a financial pickle. There are basses I never intended or wanted to sell, but had to. It sucks, but so does being homeless. I'm not sure that's what the OP was getting at anyway, because I thought about listing some basses I currently have and hope never to have to sell. But I was thinking it was more along the lines of "stuff you've had for ages that you keep because it works well enough that you've never thought about replacing, even though it has been superceded at least once by a shinier model with go-faster stripes".

Can we please get back to discussing how people's gigs where they were playing at went? This thread has gone a bit off the rails recently with discussions about upcoming gigs (there's a different thread for that) and other extraneous stuff about gigs people have attended.

That's not weird at all. I also have a rough idea what I like and don't like based upon those kind of criteria, and Jazz basses can get in the effin' bin as far as I'm concerned. I'm you, basically

I've never felt any need to replace my Boss TU-2 tuner. Had it since I started playing. It's accurate enough, and I don't feel the need to get into a piddling contest about plus or minus cents with anyone.

Aye aye, min!

I know talking about the control mechanisms on a bass can be difficult to do without childish innuendo, but honestly, this seems deliberate to me...

Fnar, anyone?

That's micro USB, and yes, the worst of the bunch. Mini USB is pretty robust in my experience, but way too chonky for people's tastes at the time when micro USB became prevalent. Why did it take them so long to come up with USB-C?

I didn't say that...

We usually play sorta in a semi circle, drummer in the middle and the Zoom is in the middle, facing the drummer, at the opposite side of the room. Experiment and find out what works best for you - the room you're in might be a factor also. The guiding principle for me was to try to put some physical distance between the drums and the Zoom. Just remember to check the manual gain wheel before you start that it's at minimum, if your drummer is anything like mine