neepheid

20th Anniversary JC:

I have owned both and kept one - the Jack Casady. There's nothing wrong with the T-bird, it's a fine bass but I have just enjoyed playing the Jack Casady more. It's light, sounds great, you can mess around with intentional feedback if you like and it looks fantastic. So, a vote for the JC from me, but I'd echo what's been said about trying them both and if money isn't an issue - just get 'em both

I am what you would consider a serial Jack Casady owner. I've had 3, sold 2. I had a gold one, sold it. I had a limited edition blue royale one (the one which was blue sparkly all over, even the sides and the binding was pearl sparkly too), sold it. I should point out that both times I sold it was no reflection on the basses themselves, first time was stupid itchy feet and the second time was needing to make ends meet. Currently I have the 20th Anniversary one (trans red with flame maple top). I am enjoying the new colours but for me the 20th Anniversary is the classiest Jack Casady - except for the cheesy truss rod cover maybe Might see if I can source a regular Epiphone E one and just keep the 20th Anniversary one safe with the rest of the nicknacks which came with it. Please slap me if I ever think of selling it, as it won't be as easily replaced as, say a gold top or ebony one. Threads like this give me the crazy, "what I'd do if I won the lottery" type of thought - collect ALL the Jack Casady finishes. Getting the sunburst one would be the most difficult I would think - was only available early on when they were first released 20+ years ago, I think.

Presumably the neck relief has been sorted out? If you've got some wiggle room, perhaps straighten up the neck a touch more?

I think there's some truth to the idea that the average punter doesn't give a monkeys what your effects chain is or what it does - because they're inebriated/dancing around like a tit/talking to their mates/just enjoying the music in a general way. I'm sure some people wouldn't even notice if you changed basses at the half time break. Maybe if you went from a P bass to a Bootsy Star bass or something - something's different - was he wearing a hat in the first half? I'm a simpleton - the only effect I use is an overdrive - when I remember to stomp on it and hit the button right, of course. Generally speaking, I'm just happy to be heard and I'm too busy trying not to f the song up to handle directing my foot to anything more than one button. Players who can manage a pedal board which looks like they bought half the guitar shop in addition to playing the damn song correctly, trying to look up at the audience more than once in a blue moon and move around at least a little bit - I salute you. I'm just not that into it. If you want a functional bass player who gets it right most of the time, has their own transport and usually has a spare lead or some other nicknack you forgot - I'm your man.

If it's a 5mm hex, you could try using a T27 Torx on it as it's 5mm point to point. This worked for me once, the star shape managed to find something to push against and turned the nut

I've sold a few basses I said I'd never sell. Can't really contribute in good conscience to this thread

I hope no-one was hurt in the tour bus crash

Furthermore, it seems like you're trying to gauge interest in something you make/obtain and wish to sell? I'm guessing as it's still unclear. That only became (kinda) clear after you waved a "look what you could have won" picture in our faces. Again, I refer back to my "Basschat != YouTube" comment - just be straight up here and tell us what you're doing - we don't need to be teased and we don't need to be baited. Some, in fact don't take too kindly to that. If you'd come to us with a more straightforward "Here's this cool thing I make and put on all my basses, <show thing, explain what's so cool about it>, was thinking of making them available to others, <price>, who's interested?" type approach, I think you would have gained more traction. In a week. If I've got the wrong end of the stick on this, please feel free to grab the stick off me, orientate it the correct way then slap me silly with it

You came to that conclusion in 8 hours? I see you're new. This is a forum, it isn't YouTube. You are talking to an potential audience of thousands, not millions. People take their time to reply - you're not going to get someone commenting "FIRST" 3 seconds after you submit something then a bunch of sycophantic "me too" comments interspersed with whatever variant of "your mom" is currency this week. Slow your roll, let your thread marinade in the slow cooker that is Basschat. If you get no replies in a week then sure, take the hump, but not after 8 hours!

Seems wasteful, could end up throwing away batteries with useful life left in them if you replace them on arbitrarily decided days 6 months apart. If I was playing at any level that wouldn't tolerate waiting for me to sound crappy long enough for me to clock that the problem is the battery and waiting for me to change said battery then I would also like a low battery indicator in my active basses.

Very nice, I had a white one a few years back, great sounding/playing basses these. I wish they would do an SB-1 Tribute. I really don't care about bridge pickups, I always had it turned down/off on my SB-2. There was/is a USA G&L SB-1 (it looks lovely in surf green), but if I'm going USA I'd rather get an L-1000 (in an equally fetching, if slightly bonkers purple metallic). Only downside is that both of them cost more than my car did

I think that's my name been mentioned three times Unfortunately I've never wired a 6 position Ripper, only the original 4 position one. Also, the term "varitone" is a little misleading here - in a Ripper (4 or 6 position) it has nothing to do with tone - it is just a pickup switch. "Varitone" as I understand it is a way of switching in different caps or whatnot to alter the tone of whatever is going through it, but happy to be corrected on that one. The only thing I've managed to find so far is Gibson's description of what the 6 positions do: The new six-position selector knob lets you dial in six very different tone selections. In position one you get the bridge pickup only. Position two gives you the second coil of the neck pickup and the first coil of the bridge pickup. Position three delivers the first coil of the bridge pickup. Position four dials in the second coil of the neck pickup. Position five gives you the first coil of the neck pickup and the second coil of the bridge pickup. And the sixth position gives you only the neck pickup. So, assuming we're talking (from the neck down) it's neck coil 1, neck coil 2, bridge coil 1, bridge coil 2, we can translate from Gibsonspeak as follows: Position 1 - bridge only (both coils) Position 2 - both pickups (single coils, inner) Position 3 - bridge only (coil 1 only) Position 4 - neck only (coil 2 only) Position 5 - both pickups (single coils, outer) Position 6 - neck only (both coils) I am assuming that all wiring is parallel. That's a lot of assume, sorry. You're going to need someone who knows a lot more about electronics and wiring than me, but a wizard should be able to translate the above into switch wiring. Sorry I can't be of more help. Matt

Epiphone EB-3. Cherry red. I sold it. I don't miss it. I didn't really know what I wanted from a bass at the time, I got it because it was kinda what Jack Bruce played. Very kinda as it turns out. Would be interesting to go back and see how it feels now that I know what's going on On the plus side, it put me down the Gibson side of life rather than the Fender way and gave me a taste for crown inlays, flower pots and 2+2 headstock, so it wasn't all bad.

Big mistake by Epiphone not using the bat wing when they reissued the Embassy bass. The simple 2+2 they used put me right off. Academic now, as I think they've binned it

Neither. Unless I now live in a world where they're the only two government approved types of basses, then Precision. Until then, I'll enjoy one of the freedoms I still have at the moment and play my T-bird

Epiphone Jack Casady. Don't even need an amp if you're in a quiet place and CBA plugging it in

Yup, plenty of songs to learn, plenty of songs to learn how to play better too

Aw well, that's the next gig I was planning to attend cancelled...

Presumably the old holes will be coverered by the replacement pickguard? If so, I wouldn't use filler, I'd use hardwood dowel of the appropriate diameter for the screw holes, glue them in and trim flush. I wouldn't trust filler when drilling new holes if the new holes are close to the old ones, drill might wander into the filler.

Currently, 3. Has been as high as a dozen before.

Burn the witch?

Another potentially jammy solution is to try the equivalent sized torx driver in there. Worked for me one time with a stripped hex - the points of the torx reached parts the hex key couldn't reach and turned it.

Yup, still used today on Epiphone Jack Casady Signature and Allen Woody Rumblekat, also Gibson Thunderbird and SG. Yup, still pretty awful