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neepheid

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by neepheid

  1. http://www.dutycalculator.com/help_center/example-calculation-import-duty-and-taxes-for-a-guitar-and-amp/ Bit of a complicated example, but it does highlight the possibilities. Paying for the duty/tax depends upon the courier. If it's USPS, they hand over to ParcelForce who pay the duty/tax on your behalf then send you an invoice through your door (with an admin fee of course) which you have to settle before you get the parcel - you can pay online or down at the depot. Pretty sure I remember FedEx deliver first then issue an invoice. Can't comment on others.
  2. In two, currently wondering if it's a bit too much.
  3. [quote name='wenbainhouse' timestamp='1410351659' post='2548404'] Hey hey. Thanks for the reply. I assume you carry your grabber in this then? Is it a good gig bag? [/quote] Yup. I don't have my G-3 any more. The last time I used the Body Glove one was to transport my Ripper (same body shape as a Grabber) to be refinished, and once that is done then this gig bag will be its primary means of conveyance. Seems like a pretty decent bag to me in terms of padding and comfort.
  4. [quote name='wenbainhouse' timestamp='1410346773' post='2548341'] Hello everyone. First post here. Just wondering if anyone could recommend a gig bag that would fit a Gibson grabber? Would it be easier to try an acoustic bag? Cheers Ben. [/quote] No, you'll have so much left over bag. I have one of these Body Glove Series One gigbags which seem to be a tad wider than some: But I'm sure I used to fit my G-3 (Grabber with 3 pickups) into a mid-range Warwick Rockbag in terms of padding etc.
  5. Universal opportunity is fine and I welcome it but I would hate to see it wasted by forcing kids who don't give a toss either way into learning an instrument. Apart from playing recorder at primary school, I had opportunities and didn't take them. I'm sure I had the chance to play cello but humphing it around seemed like too much hard work. Then I retreated into my shell almost completely at secondary school for a variety of reasons and saw music classes in 1st and 2nd year as a chore and paid little or no attention whatsoever. Apart from a half-assed, ultimately abortive attempt to learn guitar in early adulthood, I didn't do anything until I seriously started playing bass (practising, being in bands) at the grand old age of 33. I do regret not getting going sooner (bloody young whiz-kids running rings around me, grr), but such is life. Make the most of now and all that.
  6. [quote name='GrammeFriday' timestamp='1410339084' post='2548209'] 3-band all the way for me. Want a scooped sound? Just cut the mids right back. Getting lost in the mix, or need a really fat bridge pup fingerstyle sound? Boost the mids, roll off the treble, and boom. I use the mid knob so much that I cannot imagine playing my Ray without it. And having a side-mounted jack is also a major plus IMO - I hate front mounted jacks, and can't imagine why anyone would want to have a big fat ugly jack plug sticking out the front of their bass when they can have it neatly tucked away at the side. [/quote] It's not so bad with a right angle jack plug is it? Straight jacks do look a bit daft protruding from the front of the bass, I'll give you that
  7. [quote name='eude' timestamp='1410268221' post='2547653'] Ha ha, fair enough mate Any suggestions on how to fix it bar rewiring the whole house? You're quite good with electronics right? I've tried a Monster Power thing ( [url="http://www.monsterproducts.com/power/monster_power.asp"]http://www.monsterpr...nster_power.asp[/url] ) which is meant to help, but it does nothing at all, and it's also the most hideous 8 way adapter I ever did see... Eude [/quote] Ach, I can wire sockets and switches but not much else. I did a quick google and found this, chock full of technical sounding stuff - http://www.theiet.org/forums/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=205&threadid=42230
  8. [quote name='eude' timestamp='1410179908' post='2546815'] I don't notice any fans noise on mine either, I have quite a bit of 60 cycle hum, but the electrics in my house were literally done by a chimp. [/quote] It's fifty 'ere. Our hum is a bit bassier than our cousins across the pond
  9. I find it hard to muster up these prodigious levels of care regarding the subject. It's a bass. As long as I like the look and feel of it and it sounds like a bass and not a bag of spanners falling down a stairwell or an angry wasp in a tin can, I pick it up, I play it, I put it down again. It matters not to me if it's passive or active. I have great sounding passive basses (mmm, TB+ pickups) and great sounding active basses (hello RD/Victory Artist). And there are great sounding "active" basses with passive EQ controls (G&L). What I will say about active/passive preferences is that it makes sense to me that active basses should have a passive mode, even if it has no EQ as some sort of get out of jail card should the batteries decide that enough is enough. And quick release battery compartments. And low battery indicators. Basically anything to minimise people having the heebie-jeebies about active basses because the battery might run out on them mid gig. And I also understand that some people frown upon all the control available and prefer simplicity. While I do not understand that, I respect that. Some people just want a spanner to be able to tighten and loosen nuts and bolts. I think that a spanner which also makes the tea, feeds the cat and periodically spits out pound coins would be awesome
  10. [quote name='SmallDawg' timestamp='1410216348' post='2547321'] Hello I was wondering if it's possible to wire in a single 250k push pull volume pot to a bass but have it so that when you pull it up, it still acts as a volume pot when you turn it but so that it's cut the tone? I'm tired so please forgive my poor wording haha. I basically want it so that when you pull it up, it would have the same effect as if you were to roll the tone pot on a precision or jazz bass fully off. Thanks in advance for any help [/quote] So basically you want the switch part of the push/pull to switch in a capacitor which then bleeds as much treble as it is capable of down to earth when activated? I'm sure that is eminently possible and someone cleverer than me will be along shortly with a wiring diagram
  11. [quote name='Shockwave' timestamp='1410113292' post='2546279'] Oooof, i'll take your G&L, your Ripper, your LP DC and your Victory! Don't suppose you have a G&L Interceptor somewhere? [/quote] Ha, it was a 6 year old Honda Civic I bought, not a Bugatti Veyron
  12. Congrats, but I think "cured" is a bold claim
  13. A shortfall in my new car expenditure means I will have to let this one go. 1987 G&L El Toro bass. Ash body, maple neck, maple board. Black body, matching black headstock. Black crinkle coated hardware. 2x Bi-Pole pickups (AKA Mini-MFD). Controls as follows - volume, passive treble cut, passive bass cut, black switch = pickup selector, red switch = bass boost (bypass pickup selector and wire both pickups in series with additional capacitor), white switch = active/passive. Bass is in pretty good condition for its age, there is a fingernail sized bit of finish missing on the top body edge about in line with the bridge, a couple of small finish chips in the end of the matching headstock, a little buckle rash, and a tiny spot on the back of the neck where the finish has worn - can't say I notice it when I'm playing. Also worth noting is that the bass pot was replaced - original one had a broken track. Comes with original G&L ABS plastic hard case - one latch is missing but the three remaining keep it working well enough. Looking for £800 plus postage. Depending on the bass I might be interested in trades for basses of less monetary value (£400 or less) plus cash my way - another Gibson restoration project? Try me Body finish chip: Headstock: Neck finish wear (yes, that wee darker spot) Rash (not caused by me - really don't understand why this even has to happen, irritating)
  14. [quote name='Skol303' timestamp='1409855730' post='2544055'] Audacity is a great piece of freeware (I use it frequently for cleaning up audio) but it's a little 'clumsy' for what you're trying to achieve. Have a look at Reaper, which is available for free on an unlimited trial basis or commercially for around £50. Bucketloads of tutorials for it on YouTube: [url="http://www.reaper.fm"]http://www.reaper.fm[/url] And lots of Reaper users lurking around in the Recording forum on Basschat [/quote] I find Reaper [i]et al[/i] far too overwhelming and busy for what the OP is trying to achieve. Audacity makes perfect sense to me when I try to do such things (tack some of my bass onto a pre-existing recording then mix down). A DAW is crazy complicated looking thing for such a simple task - it might as well be the flight deck of an aeroplane to me and I'm not stupid or some kind of technophobe - I work in IT and I've been using computers since I was 8. But I just look at a DAW and go WTF? I have tried a few (Reaper, Ardour are the two I recall) and it's been the same reaction every time. Each to their own. When I hit the wall and can't do something in Audacity, I'll revisit DAWs and maybe make a better go of it because I have to. But right now, I don't have to, and I really don't want to
  15. This is the manual you want, documents the GP7SM preamp employed in the BLX 80: http://britishaudioservice.com/inst/SM.pdf
  16. [quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1409736169' post='2542723'] I read that it was (pre-eastern copies) because the shape was too similar to a Fender at the time. Gibson were made to cease and desist by Fender for making something too similar to their designs. Gibson's response was to 'reverse' the body, taking it away from the offset-body-with-top-horn look, and making the classic shape we know and love. It seems laughable now, as the majority of the bass and guitar market is indistinguishable from Fender, even for those in the know, let alone the average passer by! Still, if correct, that is why the classic look is the 'reverse' body, and the other way round, like the original design, is 'non-reverse', which to today's eyes looks absolutely nothing like a Fender! [/quote] I am maybe reading you wrong, but it seems to me that you have "reversed" things (ba-doom tish) - the original design was the "reverse" (1963-65) with the bigger bottom horn, neck through construction. The non-reverse came after (1966-69) with the more traditional bigger top horn, set neck. Then the "reverse" design came back with the Bicentennial in 1976-79. The "reverse" Thunderbird came back officially for good in 1987. The non-reverse made a limited run reappearance in 2012, still a few Pelham Blue ones left at Thomann for a very reasonable price
  17. [quote name='KK Jale' timestamp='1409708832' post='2542545'] They didn't call the MK 1 Thunderbird/Firebird "reverse" at the time of course. But people do now, because it's pretty much a flipped-over Fender Jazzmaster, which came out four years earlier. But the OP is basically right, the whole "reverse" terminology originates in geeky early '80s vintage dealer hindsightism that crumbles, biscuit-like, under the mildest scrutiny. [/quote] "People do now" - including Gibson themselves. I won't debate the origins of the terminology with you because I don't know any better than what you've said, but it is terminology which Gibson have officially embraced. Product officially called "Thunderbird Non-Reverse Bass" - [url="http://www2.gibson.com/Products/Electric-Guitars/Bass/Gibson-USA/Thunderbird-Non-Reverse-Bass.aspx"]http://www2.gibson.c...verse-Bass.aspx[/url] There's a nod to reverseness in the official blurb for the Gibson Thunderbird IV - "The Thunderbird’s unique “reversed” zig-zag body design" You can call it revisionary if you like, but it's coming from the mouth of the horse which makes the damn things, even if the horse didn't think of it first and that in itself is official enough for me. EDIT: Debate on - I found something. Gibson been using the term "reverse" in official blurb at least as early as 1976 with the introduction of the "Bicentennial" Thunderbird (complete with misprinted scale length - ha, just noticed that) - catalogue scan courtesy of flyguitars.com
  18. [quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1409695260' post='2542447'] If it started with a Thunderbird with a reverse body, how do we know it was reverse? [/quote] Because it was/is the wrong way round - the bottom horn extending more than the top one (not that it really had/has one) in direct contrast with all its contemporaries at the time?
  19. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1409639448' post='2541668'] Sorry I missed this yesterday, every Rick I have played was terrible, every Gibson I have tried had neck dive so these are my findings, if that upsets people that's just how it is, do I cry in my corn flakes at the mention of weak G strings, active basses sucking, over priced mass produced ebmm basses? Nope. [/quote] Well, you've qualified it now to your own personal experience and the generalisation was all I really took exception to. Sorry for being short yesterday - I wasn't having the best of days. FWIW, EBMM products seem fine to me, I keep having little wiffs of GAS when I see a Big Al... I really don't think EBMM get much of a rough ride around here though - there's this muttering about weak G strings (which I'm pretty sure if it does exist happens in a tiny number of cases and most of the time could be chased out through setup or choice of strings). If anything, the worst negative thing that sticks out in my mind mentioned here about EBMM is their rabid official forum (which I've never visited, admittedly) where apparently you'll get shot down in flames by a horde of fanbois if you dare to say anything negative about the company's products? I can't really answer the OP's questions - I lack the experience of P and J basses to give any solid guidance and after getting in a spat about generalisations it would be rather hypocritical of me to wheel some out right now What I will say is try both, play whatever you play and see which you prefer the sound and feel of, after all you're the one that's going to be playing the bass. Or just buy one of each
  20. [quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1409583203' post='2541141'] ^ oh come on! [/quote] Oh come on, [i]what[/i]? I've read it scores of times and I'm getting pretty fed up of it. Gibson neck dive this, spontaneous headstock ejection that, all Gibson basses are crap etc, ad nauseum. Har-de-har-har - I'm paraphrasing while splitting my sides here.
  21. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1409512775' post='2540401'] I think this is it,if we try and venture too far from home. I look for mm tones in a jazz, a J guy cant get the mm smooth enough, the p guy misses the growl if he trys a J and the ricky fans miss the neck dive in anything else other than maybe a Gibson [/quote] Some of you just can't resist a sly dig in the ribs, eh?
  22. [quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1409301471' post='2538395'] You can't do that! That's not in the BC spirit at all.... You have to chose a brand of bass (preferably one you've never played) and declare at every opportunity that it's so much better than everything else if you don't own one you might as well give up playing... [/quote] Ha, I played a Fender Power Jazz Special at the weekend. It was a nice bass, it wasn't corrosive to the touch or anything Would play one again. I am pretty omnivorous when it comes to basses. Just don't care for too thin necks. A bass is either good or it isn't, I get to decide for myself and it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. Pick up the bass, play it. Do YOU like it? That's the only question which requires an answer and I've doggedly stuck to that philosophy. God knows none of my basses will ever be flavour of the month around here
  23. [quote name='JamesBass' timestamp='1409247340' post='2537970'] You cannot go wrong with a Precision bass. [/quote] Maybe not, but you can go more right, depending upon your tastes
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