neepheid

If it's only catching a little, or in one particular place, I'd go down the sanding route. I helped a friend out recently with his Jazzmaster - the tremolo arm was pushing down and then sticking because the sprung loaded plate underneath the bridge plate was catching on the wood in the cavity. You could see where the scuffing was. I gently sanded those areas out until it moved freely.

[quote name='drTStingray' timestamp='1363051305' post='2007722'] Must surely be time for a resurgance of the Gibson era.............. [/quote] What do you think I've been trying to instigate for the past four years?

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1363022043' post='2007082'] They tell me that's quite normal for Aberdeen? [/quote] Ha, but this was in Inverness

It's quite a departure from their usual models, isn't it? It reminds me a little of one of these (Washburn Taurus):

I wouldn't think the coating would be terribly happy about being boiled and subsequently lightly roasted.

If the country is in the EU then the recipient won't pay any duty. As the exporter, you won't be liable for anything, even if you're sending it beyond the EU, the burden is always on the importer/recipient.

I know what you mean about vibrations - at one gig the sound guy had used a DI box for the bass and during the gig it had vibrated off the top of my rig and fell down the side. The sound guy asked me in a somewhat accusatory tone where it was, but thankfully we found it and he was somewhat sheepish and apologetic after that. I didn't mind because he'd done a sterling job of the sound that night, clear as a bell on stage and the crowd were dancing about like maniacs

This won't take long... 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[quote name='Hutton' timestamp='1362739096' post='2003974'] If only it was £5. [/quote] There's as much chance of Andy Baxter selling a bass for a fiver as me plucking a Russian meteorite the size of a double decker bus out of the sky and slam dunking it into the Grand Canyon.

Given the choice of those three, I'd probably go for the Mustang. Shocking admission from a man with tastes like mine, but it's probably the all-rounder of the three, the other two being at various extremes of either sound or ergonomics - in my opinion neither things are desirable when you're starting out. My first bass was an Epiphone EB-3. I bought it because it looked pretty. Ergonomically it was a disaster (horrible neck dive which I had to constantly fight against when playing, and a thin neck which I later found out through playing other basses that I dislike) and as such it was a pretty ornament for something like five years, years that I now regret as being wasted (from a bass playing point of view - I did other stuff!)

This is precisely why I have my reservations about the practice of putting Fender logos on non-Fender instruments. People get hoodwinked - not necessarily by the person who applied the logo. I firmly believe that the only appropriate place for a Fender logo is a Fender, perhaps as part of a renovation/restoration. I don't want to come across all preachy - in an ideal world everything would be above board and full disclosure with every item sold would be the norm. Unfortunately we don't live in an ideal world, and it's a simple fact that through either fraudulent greed or unfortunate ignorance these non-Fender instruments will get passed off as the genuine article somewhere down the line and for every knowledgeable expert out there there will be ten people who aren't nutty mad about instruments and their geeky fine details who will get fooled. This is the world we live in, and seeing as we can't change it dramatically by ourselves we have to best fit our practices and behaviours to the parameters we are presented with. You want to curtail fraud? Stop creating opportunities for fraud.

I did this once to a Squier and I went down the amusing "almost real" route (Fecker Imprecision Bass in the late 70s style) rather than try and pass it off as a Fender. I'm not comfortable with that. I'm not suggesting that you would try to pull the wool over someone's eyes if you were to sell it, but there's nothing to stop the person you sell it to from trying to hoodwink someone into thinking that it's a genuine Fender.

[quote name='The Dark Lord' timestamp='1362561158' post='2001195'] I hope you're going to Police this. It could be an invitation to the hidden traders who masquerade as basschatters. There is a particular piss-taker on here who has annoyed me in the past with his dodgy dealing and who still irks me with his regularly posting of many more items for sale than any normal bass player would do. [/quote] What is there to police? If they pay their sub then surely they can sell as much stuff as they like, as they've paid for the service. If there's a limit on the "year's unlimited listings" then surely this should be made clear?

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1362512639' post='2000622'] I think most basses are good enough to do anything you want. The really valuable factor is whether a particular bass makes you want to pick it up, and that's usually a combination of it being (primarily) attractive and also comfortable. [/quote] Agreed. If it's not "good enough" to do the things I want to do then I don't own it.

Yay, another box of 10 Procells arrived today. £7.50 delivered. 75p per (decent) battery. Sorted.

[quote name='Machines' timestamp='1362435322' post='1999864'] I want to try an M series to see what they're like compared to the L2000. Wouldn't ever change it though. [/quote] SImple solution - have both

Yup, Procell 10 packs all the way for me. Not just for the active basses - tuner pedal needs them too

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1362128906' post='1996032'] [color=#0000FF]"Cba lookin it up"[/color] [/quote] That's the sad part right there. Information at our fingertips these days, and they "cba lookin it up". I weep for the future.

[quote name='Skinnyman' timestamp='1362080675' post='1995562'] I tried cocktail sticks and no joy. The dowel solution seems like the best with Araldite applied to the screw when it's inserted. I think I'll drill a little pilot hole for the screw though just to try and avoid any splits. Thanks all! [/quote] You absolutely must drill a pilot hole first. Without it you could split the wood or strip the head off the screw when you attempt to drive it in.

There aren't any wires hanging down from the drivers and making contact with one of the cones? This happened in my Zoot cab. A second pair of eyes (thanks, Rich) a couple of cable ties later and the problem was solved.

My wife has one rule (which I heartily support) - all instruments are to be played. I can have as many as I like, but if any fall out of favour then I must sell them. No basses under the bed/stashed in the attic in my house.

[quote name='omikin' timestamp='1361800914' post='1991036'] Okay, so I took the neck off, adjusted the truss rod, put the neck back on, applying a bit of pressure to push it back into alignment. Result? Strings aligned, action nice and low. Plays just like my other P now. Panic over. [/quote] Only some of us were panicking Glad you sorted it out.

There might be a minuscule amount of "give" in the neck pocket so the neck can be loosened and then tilted ever so slightly left/right as needed. Don't need a lot of lateral movement to make a big difference to the overall alignment.