neepheid

Good stuff, sounds like it was meant to be after all

Not good. Agreed to do some jazz stuff with my wife and feeling a bit out of my depth

I had a pair of EMG-HB pickups coupled with a BQC preamp in an Epiphone Les Paul Standard bass. I remember the first bass bash I went to. People laughed at it - "take that thing away, it looks like a guitar!" Then they played it, and that soon changed their minds Ended up selling it in the end to balance the books a bit - and it's the only bass I truly miss. Anyway, the point of this is that I like EMG pickups, even at 9V they're powerful and sound great. "Modern" sounding? Sure, if by that you mean precise and articulate.

In the process of sorting out new band(s), but have a video of the old band. Well, even though it's all gone belly up, it's still me playing after all... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHj6nqP9wdI[/media] Apologies to Martin Stephenson for destroying his song

[quote name='StephenFerguson' timestamp='1351242071' post='1849049'] I have never liked Gibson basses or guitars, especially the basses. [/quote] Take that, eyeballs! Ha! Seriously though, you're entitled to your opinion. Also, I don't live far from the harbour if you want to challenge your perceptions

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1351011023' post='1846217'] TBH the Gotoh bridge was a waste of time. Because of the thicker baseplate and larger saddle diameter, you couldn't adjust the action low enough. I had to put the original saddles on the Gotoh bridge to make it work! I much prefer the Wilkinson BBOT with brass saddles I've got on my RBX270 (and it was only £15!). [/quote] In this case, rather than replace the saddles you could shim the neck, increasing (very slightly) the neck angle which for the same bridge saddle heights will require you to raise the saddles to achieve the action you had before. A strip of wood veneer works best in my experience (being about 0.6mm thick and being the same (ish) material as the wood around it), but there's many basses out there with a cigarette carton shim in them

eBay don't care, this much we know, I have pretty much given up reporting fakes (although I did this one). Might get some attack drones deployed from EBMM though. eBay might listen to them.

Epiphone Rumblekat: Epiphone Zenith bass (the Shadow Nanomag butted right up against the end of the fingerboard, doesn't get more "neck" than that

Guild B302/402 series: Godin Shifter:

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1350962772' post='1845603'] youz?.... alright. I am a trained joiner, and in my experience, 2 pieces of timber glued together tended to not be as strong as a single piece of timber. I think it was a fair conclusion to draw. and i have seen the scarf joints break off before. was i totally wrong? I don't think so. [/quote] But what are you using the glued timber for? Anchoring some strings and acting against string tension, or holding up a floor of a house? Everything's relative. For [i]appropriate [/i]stresses and loads (including those found in a stringed instrument), a glued joint will be no weaker than a single piece of wood. Why do you think people who make one piece necks have volutes at the headstock round the back of the nut area? Increases the amount of wood at the weak point. Surely this practice in itself is evidence that the wood needs some extra help? You may well be a joiner, and a noble profession it is, but you aren't a luthier. And before anyone flies off the handle I'm not saying that a luthier is better, just different.

Back bow sucks. I tried to fix one once with steam and clamping. It briefly seemed ok but soon went back to its bowed ways

Hmph, it's not set neck, it's a through neck. Tsk tsk, Dr. Epiphone. [url="http://www.epiphone.com/Products/Bass/Thunderbird-Classic-IV-PRO.aspx"]http://www.epiphone.com/Products/Bass/Thunderbird-Classic-IV-PRO.aspx[/url]

BC already been on the case: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/188454-fender-puzzle-telecaster/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/188454-fender-puzzle-telecaster/[/url]

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1350656787' post='1841888'] By way of a follow up, the Classic 450 is now dead. Defunct. Shuffled off this mortal coil. Used it this morning, went to switch it on after lunch, loud crack and flash from mains inlet, second pop and flash from the mesh by the carry handle. Result: trip switch went, one dead amp. Hope it hasn't caused any damaged to my BF Compact (output was muted anyway). GuitarGuitar are picking it up on Monday. Now undecided whether to go for replacement (I do like it) or push for refund and look at some of the usual suspects (MB, OTB, PF500...). But for now, just [/quote] If you like it then see how you go with the replacement. Things do go wrong sometimes and it isn't necessarily the amp's fault. One little piece of the puzzle (which TC probably didn't even make) has gone pop and taken the whole shebang down with it.

[quote name='libertino' timestamp='1350634244' post='1841399'] Thanks for all the recommendations so far. I'm being swayed towards the 'cube' amps, the size of these certainly takes precedence over 'smallish' amps (but thank you for those suggestions too).[list] [*]Roland Cube - Is 120W the most powerful? Is that enough? [*]RedSub BT5110 500W - This would be perfect if it's not too good to be true. [*]AER Amp One 200W - I think I'd be spoiling myself spending that much. [/list] [/quote] Remember that the RedSub is "only" 250W in the combo because of the 8 ohm speaker, if you want the 500W you have to plug in an 8 ohm extension cab or take the head out and use it with a 4 ohm cab (or pair of 8 ohm cabs).

TV Jones? [url="http://tvjones.com/"]http://tvjones.com/[/url]

I operate a strict rotation policy. Instruments are to be played. Out of 32 gigs so far in my limited career, I have used no bass more than 5 times

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1350554248' post='1840359'] I don't think you're right. The old one was a 500w head (so @ 300 - 350w or so at 8Ω). The stats are VERY misleading on the new one as it says it's a 300w combo at 4Ω, yet it has an extension socket that says 8Ω? Just had a quick look on Ibby's web & the manual says that the combo is 150w @ 8Ω. [/quote] Isn't the end of the first paragraph rather misleading then? [url="http://www.ibanez.com/Electronics/model-P3110"]http://www.ibanez.co...ics/model-P3110[/url] - states "Plus, the fire-red amp head can be easily detached without any tools" - also it says it is a "300W combo". Thomann claim that the combo is 4ohms and the speaker out is 4ohms also. Surely that's dangerous misadvice if wrong? [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/ibanez_p3110.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...banez_p3110.htm[/url] So the question is: who's telling porkie pies?

[quote name='giblett123' timestamp='1350538999' post='1840155'] Love the look of the new promethean, less power than the last?? [/quote] Less watts yes, but 50W more in the combo than last time (old one was 250W because of 8 ohm speaker in the combo, 500W with 4 ohm cab).

[quote name='Angel' timestamp='1350331228' post='1837499'] I just don't get why people trot out that tired old phrase. MODERN FINISHES DO NOT "RELIC"!!!!!!!! Doh [/quote] Modernity/era of manufacture has nothing to do with it. It's the type of coating. If you want a nitrocellulose finish which will look ratty in 20 years time, fine. That can be had on a bass made today if you like. Maybe not on the bass you want. That's another matter entirely.

I did the cab lightening thing already. I'm 36 and to be honest I found lugging my old Ashdown cab (nearly 80lbs) down then up two floors of stairs (one of which is external and concrete) was beginning to put me off and made going to gigs a bit of a drag (to say nothing of the going home - by the end it would be left in the car overnight after a gig - the logic being if they can lift it, they're welcome to it ). Moved up to a 50lbs Zoot. Now skipping up and down stairs with it. I am now worried that in another 10 years time I'll be looking at the Zoot and thinking "you're getting heavy". I guess that's where the 2x1x12 setup comes in. It also begs the question how long I can wear 12lbs+ basses on my shoulders. Not looking at any victorious, all maple basses in particular I don't bemoan the lightweight gear - I welcome it. My primary existence as IT guy relishes the thought (and the challenge) of lightening the behemoth and still retaining great sounding bass. All the same, good to have a plan to keep on trucking. As far as I'm concerned, I'm going to play until my hands seize up completely through arthritis or my brain turns so spongy I can't remember the notes (or where I put the bass in the first place, or what a bass is)

I'm outside his house too. Thanks, Google Streetview! In all seriousness though, I hope you get this resolved, I'd estimate that three quarters of the price you paid is scammer tax.

First thing to is work out what is generating the noise - bass, lead between bass and amp, amp, lead between amp and cab or cab. Can you plug the head into another cab? Can you get different leads? Find out which part of the puzzle is causing you grief and then we'll take it from there.

I can't see myself ever wanting anything bigger than a 4x10, particularly as I've got a nice light cab already (Zoot - pre Purple Chili). I take a rear ported 1x10 combo on its own to band rehearsals and it makes itself heard right enough It's maybe not the same as an 8x10, but I think these nuances are lost on most folk so as far as I'm concerned it would be a personal indulgence that I can't be bothered with the aggravation of storing and transporting.