neepheid

Whereabouts in Aberdeen? Original link not working, perhaps you scared him off?

[quote name='Quoth'd' post='1130930' date='Feb 17 2011, 01:03 PM']I have a Hartke 3500 (with corners and rack ears) . . . Now after doing a good turn for (now ex-guitarist) and offering to fix some of his PA cabs for him I made the mistake of using my beloved amp as to test for faults. After a quick turn of very quiet sound level quickly getting fainter - the amp went pop, wiz, bang and then silent [the day of a gig too] So after disassembling the speaker I quickly found out that the crossover had gone and went short as it warmed up (cause of blown amp established). That left me with my amp to fix. I pulled it apart & did all the usual checks then found that the output transistors had blown. So after a quick hunt round, I found a set of compatible replacements for the 4x pairs of output transistors which I fitted and checked again. Good signal with tone source when quiet but as I turned the gain up - a distortion creped in (on the scope it looked like a saw wave on the negative signwave - top half fine / bottom half jagged). The louder the output gain the more distorted the output. Now my dilemma is this - I have replaced amp with a lovely Gallien Krueger backline which I am loving & looking forward to cranking when am back in a band again. I have a semi-working Hartke 3500 which I don't need so am wondering if it would be better to call Samson & order the replacement output (loaded) PCB then sell it as refurbished [u]or[/u] to sell it as non-working [u]or[/u] to break it and sell individual bits (case / front panel / transformer / pre-amp-board / send-return board / output board / heatsink etc). Any advice gratefully received as am loathed to flebay it and walk away with a miserable £20. Thanks Si[/quote] I'd fix it, mine was bought faulty (valve preamp section not working). Turns out a resistor had burned out on the board. Replaced all the nearby caps (one of which might have caused the failure) and the burned resistor. Broke the stupid bit which goes to the compressor control on the front panel and had to repair that by running some wires instead of relying on PCB tracks. That was 2 1/2 years ago now and it's been working great ever since.

Far be it from me to stand in the way of progress, but yuck, no thanks.

[quote name='cocco' post='1130567' date='Feb 17 2011, 08:17 AM']I have an epi T-bird I'd like shot of if you're interested?[/quote] You have a PM.

[quote name='TheRockinRoadie' post='1130213' date='Feb 16 2011, 08:36 PM']Hi everyone, I'm trying to set up my Fender Marcus Miller Jazz IV, but I cant find the right size key to fit the bridge - does anyone know what size I need? Me and my dad have searched our whole machine shop and cant find one small enough - its really annoying!! Cheers, L[/quote] It's a really annoyingly small imperial size which I can't remember. That's the best I can give you. Hopefully someone will remember the exact size.

I despise them - please make them optional if they are introduced!

I bought a shoulder pad thing (not the ones from the 80s - it's for augmenting my strap, not my shoulder) from Ed - it was sent promptly and arrived safe and well. With good, polite communication on top of that, one can't really ask for more. Have no fear, trading here.

First: Epiphone EB-3 Go-to: G&L Tribute L-2000 Your: Ach, as long as I can hear myself when I play, I'm happy.

Nothing on the go at the moment and 5 basses. I don't care - I do intend to get something together this year, but I just like basses, both as instruments and as works of art, so I won't be getting rid of any that I wouldn't get rid of through natural wastage or curiosity.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1124198' date='Feb 11 2011, 06:58 PM']Bloody 'ell! Think you've just cured my GAS for one o' these! Jon.[/quote] That's why I wasn't concerned about your threats to steal mine - you'll never outrun me

[quote name='TommyK' post='1124071' date='Feb 11 2011, 05:10 PM']Cheers mate that would be great, when you the have time. + How heavy is yours? I am used to a Ray35 which is pretty weighty i.e 10lbs+. Will more training be required??!![/quote] Mine's somewhere between 12 and 13lbs. Be warned File is here: [url="http://www.ifb.co.uk/~matthew/gibson_victory_prices.txt"]http://www.ifb.co.uk/~matthew/gibson_victory_prices.txt[/url] View it in a monospaced font to keep the columns correct.

[quote name='TommyK' post='1124026' date='Feb 11 2011, 04:40 PM']Looking at one of these on the bay.com. Condition wise, It is about as mint as you can get for a 1981 bass,complete with original case. Been on my GAS list for a while (Along with RD Artists) [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/81-Gibson-USA-Victory-Artist-4-String-Electric-Bass-/250771837056?pt=Guitar&hash=item3a632a9080"]Yer[/url] Does anyone have any idea what it is likely/ought to make? Cheers TK[/quote] Can't really help you, mine was a wreck and had no case. If you are going for it, get some weight training in Having said that, I have a list of all the ebay Victory auctions from Dec09 until Jun10 when I got mine if you're interested.

Simple solution - stop saying it! Just state your price, never mind explaining. If the price is right then it will sell.

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='paul h' post='1120137' date='Feb 8 2011, 02:38 PM']I'm a total convert. After fitting one of KiOgon's harnesses in my Jim Deacon [b]I think it's mod right up there with changing pickups[/b]. In fact I am thinking of going for a jazz style one for my Retrovibe.[/quote] I disagree with the section highlighted. Apart from the fact that there is no frame of reference with which to properly quantify the perceived improvement, in my humble opinion there is no way that any loom mod will have as as much impact as changing the pickup(s), assuming we're talking about sound quality and not functionality here. I made that assumption because the statement doesn't make it clear. In the case of non-functional looms and non-functional pickups then yes, they are of equal importance. Either way, I'll take your opinion as just that, an opinion and then disregard it because as stated above, I disagree with it and if I may be so bold I think it sounds like rabid, unsubstantiated fanboy talk. I'm not calling you a rabid fanboy, by the way.

[quote name='icastle' post='1121213' date='Feb 9 2011, 12:02 PM']...or wasps will chase you... [/quote] Hence diet coke...

Try soaking the chrome bits in a diet coke bath. My G-3 bridge went from this: to this: Not perfect by any means, but a damn sight better than it was. Remember to rinse and dry thoroughly before putting it back together

[quote name='Rich' post='1120914' date='Feb 9 2011, 07:18 AM']You could always wait for an Epi Bird to turn up on eBay for 'spares or repair', with the usual broken-headstock problem. There was one the other day, can't find it now so it might have ended.[/quote] I was watching it - it went for way more than it deserved to. Some silly people out there

During a drunken conversation at the Moffat Bass Bash, I proposed a solution to the neckdive of the Thunderbird bass - make it headless. I remember it being a visionary idea at the time, but in the cold, sober light of day it seems like a daft project to take on for a laugh I would like to butcher a bolt on Thunderbird (Epiphone or whatever) and add a headless neck and bridge. I might alter the body shape a little to address another of what I see as one of the faults of the Thunderbird - high fret access. I've been pottering around in the GIMP and come up with this: I then had the body modification idea and so did this: Not sure how much I would move the bottom horn back, that's just what might happen. I've got no parts yet and even less clue apart from the pictures above. It might not even work, but it'll be a laugh finding out as long as I keep the costs down.

I've been thinking about making a headless T-bird - would certainly solve all those neck dive issues

Very much so, even if it was pristine in the original case which was also pristine. The guy's dreaming.

Ahh, the classic overpayment scam. Oops, I wrote the wrong value - could you refund me the difference? YEAH RIGHT. Poke it.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1117835' date='Feb 6 2011, 04:48 PM']Well the only bass I've seen in that kind of budget that has two MM pups and appealed to me is the G&L L2500, which blew me away when I had a play on one a while back (and if I'm honest, is part of the reason I'm GASing for a MM/MM bass). Even if I were to just buy one of those, I'd like to put in coil taps on the MMs. Just buying something would take out all of the fun though just buying something. I've never modded any of my instruments and I know I'm capable of it from a few repairs I've had to do. Just thought it could be something interesting and fun that would make the instrument a little more special to me. It's a bit like buying a jigsaw then someone saying "well why didn't you just buy the picture?" [/quote] The G&L L-2500 does not have two MM pickups. It has two MFD pickups, which are nothing like MM pickups in terms of anything other than they're both large pole piece humbuckers. The two do not and cannot compare in terms of sound. I'm with you on the coil tap though. Modding a G&L with coil taps is both easy and non-ruinous because all you need to do is replace a switch and do some wiring. No cosmetic damage incurred, and easily reversible - the epitome of an elegant modification. Also the single coils of MFDs sound sweet (in my humble opinion) - I have the inner coils option on my Tribute L-2000.

Alas, another bass bash comes to an end. Not long back in the grey fortress of melancholy, gear's all packed away. Knackered, but happy. Thanks to all who made it happen, and thanks to everyone for making it a fantastic weekend. Great basses in great company, doesn't get much better than that. Good to see familiar faces again and meet some new people.

[quote name='mrpink1991' post='1115153' date='Feb 4 2011, 12:37 PM']neepheid, thanks for your reply. How would I go about this?[/quote] Unscrew everything you can. You should be able to remove the capstan, pinion and any washers associated with it. The crux is whether the worm gear/button can be removed and reversed. To save you the bother, I might have a left handed one lying around in spares somewhere. Let me see what I can find. I take it these tuners are standard large sized, open gear types as per the originals?