neepheid

G&L L-2000 uses a 1Meg reverse log pot for the bass control and I think it was labelled C1M as well. You can get replacements from G&L here: [url="http://www.glguitars.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=19&cat=Potentiometers"]http://www.glguitars.com/shopping/shopdisp...=Potentiometers[/url] Maybe a little far to go for a pot, but that's the best I could think of. More digging: [url="http://gb.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-20-15S1-C1M/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxdMMi52izylTGUjbYbj7qlxlLC4Rw6Io="]http://gb.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-T...j7qlxlLC4Rw6Io=[/url] Split shaft si vous preferez: [url="http://gb.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-20-15K-C1M/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxdMMi52izylTGUjbYbj7qwXco89NuBrs%3d"]http://gb.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-T...qwXco89NuBrs%3d[/url]

Are these EMGs with quick connect? I'd check the link between the two halves of the P pickup.

Tricks? I always seem to be photographed on stage either giving the audience evil death stares or looking like I'm about to soil myself. You'd think I do it on purpose for the camera... Seriously though, no tricks. That would involve multitasking, and I've only just managed to construct the macro in my head to cover having 2 hands doing different things at the same time, mostly in time with each other. Still some bugs in the program to iron out

I've never spent more than £400 on a bass. My head is a Hartke 3500 which I picked up for £140 with a dodgy valve preamp section which I repaired. I'm happy with my lot and I'm happy with the results which come out of my rag tag collection of wood and electronics.

Epiphone most likely do and Tokai Thunderbirds most definitely use an allen key. That's maybe what the sites you mention were talking about.

5/16", I believe. A tool like this would be ideal: [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Wrenches/Hex_Truss_Rod_Wrenches.html"]http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Wrenches...d_Wrenches.html[/url]

I'm a sucker for blocks too. Welcome to the forum

Don't worry, google is your friend and all that: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82046"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82046[/url] According to the American importer of TI strings - lengths from ball end to top silks of 34" scale TI Jazz flat strings: C=37.26" G=37.63" D=37.38" A=37.50" E=37.75" B=36.88" Post is 7 years old though, but I doubt this information will have changed.

Bought an Italia Maranello Z bass from Simon this week - well packaged, arrived safe and well, kept in touch throughout. Trade with confidence

Hi there I'm looking to get some TI Jazz flats and seeing as they're not the cheapest of strings I'd like to make sure I get the right length. I have an Italia Maranello Z which has a sloping tailpiece. The E string is the worst case scenario where there is around 3" of string from ball end to bridge saddle. That means that for the silks to clear the nut I will need at least 37" of string before the silks kick in. Could someone do me a favour and measure one of their TI Jazz flat E strings and let me know the length from ball end to silks? There are two lengths - long and extra long. Thanks

Welcome to the forum

Your sig is getting crowded again mannie

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='BarnacleBob' post='822421' date='Apr 28 2010, 08:32 PM']That Hercules one looks ideal if the stability could be established.[/quote] Load it from the middle, out?

[quote name='hagguy' post='827649' date='May 4 2010, 05:01 PM']its a really shiney finish looks to bright to be nitro, most likely poly honestley didn't think t- cut would work does it not come off on your clothes or leave any residue?[/quote] Like the Irn-Bru - "if spilt this product may stain". You use 2 cloths (an old, clean T-shirt is ideal) - one to apply the T-Cut/do the polishing, the other one to buff the now dried T-Cut. Don't pour T-Cut onto the bass, SECURELY cover the top of the bottle with the cloth then quickly tip the bottle then back to leave a circle of T-Cut on the cloth. Using this method and working with small quantities at a time should minimise the risk of spillage.

I use T-Cut on guitar bodies. I would have no qualms about using it on a modern poly finish. Obviously don't use it on oiled/waxed finish.

Welcome to the forum

I think the sheer novelty of being in a specialist bass department/shop would shield me from the displeasure of being spoken down to in one, at least the first time

I wouldn't mod it, but it's not my bass.

Welcome to the forum