neepheid

Good job on the bending. I'd be a bit wary about using steam too, but I'd be interested to know how it goes. What an improvement over the comical effort it arrived with

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='lee4' post='503219' date='Jun 1 2009, 07:33 PM']I've re-strung my Yamaha with 45-105 flats,and after a day I found that the E string has broken a chunk off of the nut.Luckily I have found it and glued it in with UHU.Is this going to work,and do I need to re-cut the slots?[/quote] As long as you put the bit back in exactly the same place as before and used a strong enough glue then you should be fine. However, you have to ask the question why it happened in the first place. It may well be that those flats are a little too wide for the slots - did they exhibit any objections to going in the slots when you first strung up? If so, you may need to marginally widen the slot.

[quote name='henry norton' post='503154' date='Jun 1 2009, 06:36 PM']Has anyone here tried moving the big wooly humbucker from the neck closer to the bridge position on their Gibson or Epiphone EB-0?. I've seen it done on a couple of basses but never heard the results. It could produce some really interesting results - especially if the coils were made switchable between single, series and parallel. I'm thinking of giving it a go - has anyone got an unwanted EB-0 humbucker kicking around???[/quote] Yes, Gibson did: [url="http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/1972gibsonEB0.php"]http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/1972gibsonEB0.php[/url]

[quote name='Metalmoore' post='501041' date='May 29 2009, 03:45 PM']Anyone know where i could get grain filler? B&Q? Homebase? I got my paint in this morning but cant spray the body as its ash and needs to be filled first. What can i do about this?[/quote] [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=22802"]http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=22802[/url]

Welcome to the forum

No, you're not alone - I don't get along with thin necks. They can be either wide (P or wider, like my Les Paul bass) or chunky back to front (like the Rockbass Corvette I sold recently - Jazz width but chunky with it) but thin necks I don't like. I did have a Squier Jazz a few years ago but I just didn't take to it. I used to say that having the strings closer together meant my sausage fingered technique meant I touched the wrong strings more often, tweaked them with a nail or whatnot, but the Corvette proved that isn't the case. I guess I just like the feel of a substantial neck.

Would have looked better without the mudbucker - stick to the Burns Tri-sonic (or equivalent), 2 or 3 of them would have looked much better, and much closer to the guitar version it's trying to ape.

[quote name='BassKS' post='498602' date='May 27 2009, 11:30 AM']hahah, good one. Thats what I was hoping to do. the difficulty arises to find a long enough drill bit. But it can be done then thanks neepheid. BTW. If I chose to get a set of bartolinis passive with epoxy casing it shouldnt be bad, should it?[/quote] I had a Jazz with Barts in it once. It didn't like fluorescent lights very much, and that was with an earth.

[quote name='BassKS' post='498578' date='May 27 2009, 11:01 AM']Hi there, I noticed that some basses have the earth strip exposed to the rest of the world while others have it routed inside the body and makes contact under the bridge. Is there any way that one may get rid of the strip? It doesnt look nice or would that be defying the laws of electromagnetics and keep the circuit open which would result in crazy humming and buzzing. Thanks[/quote] No earth on a passive bass is probably bad. You could do what you propose, but you'll have to make alternative arrangements for earthing. If one doesn't exist, drill an angled hole from somewhere under the bridge plate into the control cavity. You'll need quite a long, narrow drill bit Run a wire through the hole and solder it to a pot casing. Job done. Doing this to a vintage instrument will most certainly harm its resale value, if that bothers you.

Welcome to the forum

I've gravitated towards thicker necks as time's gone on, so out went a Squier Jazz, an Epiphone EB-3. Had a acrylic bodied bass but it weighed a tonne so that was out. Had a brief dalliance with short scale basses until I realised that I was capable of playing long scale, so bye bye went a Squier Bronco and an Epiphone EB-0. Currently I have a P bass (everyone needs a P bass) and my main gigging bass is an Epiphone Les Paul Standard. I got that because I thought it looked beautiful. What a pleasant surprise it turned out to have a lovely wide neck. Once I gave it the full EMG treatment (HB pickups + BQC 3-band EQ) it became the beast it should have always been. I have ideas about installing a pickup selector switch in the usual LP position for completeness (it's just separate volume for each at the moment), low battery indicator and other such creature comforts. I have my custom builds, but they're a different matter altogether.

[quote name='74042' post='497999' date='May 26 2009, 02:12 PM']As you may or may not know, the Modulo has 4 lipstick pups mounted paralel with the strings. Obviously the problem lies with the pup under the A string, but I was wondering what that problem might be. Any advice?[/quote] How much quieter is it?

[quote name='BOD2' post='494905' date='May 22 2009, 09:45 AM']Will this article help ? [url="http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/pickupwiring.htm"]http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/pickupwiring.htm[/url][/quote] Cool, now I'll be able to actually test to see if my theorising is correct. Cheers for that.

[quote name='Shaggy' post='494677' date='May 21 2009, 09:34 PM']Considered plugging the routed hole with a shaped mahogany block and making a new intact pickguard[/quote] That's what I would have done - the restored pickguard would have hidden most of the repair and if a good job was made of it then it wouldn't be terribly noticeable imho. However, it does look better than it did when you got it, so good job there - that Model One was so wrong.

Not years but months - Rancid, "Time Bomb". The last time I tried to play it I only had 3 band rehearsals to get it right and I just couldn't - had to simplify it down so much. But recently I went back to it and even though I wasn't quite up to speed, I found I was able to bluster through it OK. With additional practice I think I could nail it.

Why not get a Precision/Jazz pickup configuration? That should cover most of the tonal bases. The rest is down to neck ergonomics and aesthetics.

I'm pretty sure the Squier Precision Specials have Jazz necks, although they're PJ configuration - maybe not quite what you're looking for.

I've acquired a couple of Wilkinson soapbars, but they came without wiring diagrams. Does anyone know what the wire colours signify? They're black, white, red, yellow. The red and white are soldered together, so that should be the end of one coil and the start of the other. The black seems to be in thicker insulation than the other wires. I'm looking to wire these up with parallel/series/single switching, so I guess it's important to know which is which. I will be able to narrow the wires down to pairs with the multimeter, but how will I know which way round the pairs go? If I go with an assumption like black is hot (I read this in a couple of places with respect to Wilkinson humbuckers) which means that black is hot 2 and the one which passes continuity test with the yellow is hot 1, as long as I do the same for both will it be ok (in phase and all that)?

[quote name='Johnny Hoof' post='493956' date='May 21 2009, 09:19 AM']So, at the end of last month I bought an old sound city 200 watt bass head off a guy on ebay, it wasn't the most detailed listing ever but there were no problems or issues noted and the guy had 100% positive feedback off 200and something sales. I paid over the odds for the head as I've been looking for ages and thought, due to the seller (who operate as a shop and even manufacture their own amps) this was a safe bet. Basically, bought the head, the guy sent it via parcel2go. The amp arived in a carboard box with one sheet of bubble wrap around it, the back panel is hanging off and the chasis is only attached to the cabinet by one, almost entirely ripped out of the wood, screw so it is free to move around inside. The valves were not taken out or protected with anything. Also, this head can take four valves and there are only two in it, I know that heads can run with only two but I think that I should have been told by the seller....its a bit like buying a car and it only turning up with two seats isn't it? The guy who sent it seems like a decent enough guy so I don't want to try and reclaim unnecessarily, he reckons any damage is the couriers fault but they're looking like theyre not going to pay any compensation because a claim has to be made within 14 days of COLLECTION with Pacel2go and there were loads of issues getting the package delivered as on the initial delivery attempt no card was left so i never knew it had happened and we've run out of time to claim. What do you guys reckon? Is it worth me trying to claim back through paypal? I've been speaking to the seller trying to get the money back through parcel2go but i think we've hit a dead end with that. I've never claimed back through paypal so I don't know how it works.... Let me know your thoughts please. Thanks.[/quote] It sounds like a combination of the seller's fault for insufficient packaging (anyone who has received anything distinctly fragile from me will know that I have a healthy distrust of couriers and wrap that ming vase in many layers of bubble wrap, pad out boxes with airbags, foam, polystyrene etc.) and the couriers playing football with your package. They do this sometimes - the seller really ought to have known better. I wouldn't give a damn about their so called 14 day policy. Get angry on their asses, they will acquiesce eventually. I had to rant and rave at Royal Mail once because they left a parcel of books outside my flat and it ended up on an impromptu mattress bonfire outside our place. They squirmed, offered me stamps, all that rubbish until they finally backed down and paid me the compensation. Be prepared to send letters. Phones and emails can be ignored. Apply pressure on the seller for his part in this - if he has 100% he'll be anxious to avoid that first black mark. Be insistent on the insufficient packaging. Ask for a refund, file a claim if you have to. Then it's up to the seller to get compensation from the courier. But I'm mostly angry at the courier.

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='492066' date='May 19 2009, 07:08 AM']Another option is [url="http://leicester.gumtree.com/leicester/9018_1.html"]gumtree[/url]. S.P.[/quote] Oh, using gumtree to sell anything of worth is a waste of time in my experience - all you get are a bunch of scammers who are not local to you who are happy to pay more than the thing cost to get it sent to friend/relative in Africa somewhere. Also +1 for bank transfer. You should have no qualms about dealing in this way with established members here. Done it on several occasions and it's all gone smoothly. See if they have a thread in the feedback forum.

Sell what's not being used. Instruments are there to be played. It helps to come up with specific reasons to sell. So far this year: OLP MM3 - string spacing too narrow Epi EB-3 - neck too narrow Squier Bronco - just not getting played bare Epi EB-0 - a failed attempt to keep an SG style bass in the herd Rockbass Corvette - same, plus I have no interest in modding it.

Welcome to the forum

+1 for trying a heavier gauge of string with the low tuning.