neepheid

I've recorded sound clips for basses in the past, and have taken the time to highlight the extremes of the range of the tonal variety. That's fine for a 1 pickup, vol, tone arrangement (tone all up, tone all down) but it gets more and more complicated as things evolve. 2 pickups and 2 band EQ was mildly annoying but doable (neck,bridge,both on flat EQ, extremes - neck pup, max bass, min treble and bridge pup, min bass max treble). I wonder what's the best thing to do for a complex arrangement (2 pickups, 5 way switch, 3 band EQ). I recorded all 5 switch positions with flat EQ, but how best to demo the EQ system? It was getting late so I just put my favourite switch position and found one nice EQ position and did that, but it barely scrapes the surface. Is highlighting the extremes still a good idea? In this case I guess it would be (neck pup, bass max, mid flat, treble min) and (bridge pickup, bass min, mid flat, treble max)? By this logic I am never selling my G&L; with that single coil mod thrown into the mix it'll take me a year to do the soundclips on that passive, neck pup, series passive, neck pup, parallel passive, neck pup, single (inner) passive, both pups, series passive, both pups, parallel passive, both pups, inner coils (parallel) passive, bridge pup, series passive, bridge pup, parallel passive, bridge pup, single (inner) active, neck pup, series active, neck pup, parallel active, neck pup, single (inner) active, both pups, series active, both pups, parallel active, both pups, inner coils (parallel) active, bridge pup, series active, bridge pup, parallel active, bridge pup, single (inner) active with trebleboost, neck pup, series active with trebleboost, neck pup, parallel active with trebleboost, neck pup, single (inner) active with trebleboost, both pups, series active with trebleboost, both pups, parallel active with trebleboost, both pups, inner coils (parallel) active with trebleboost, bridge pup, series active with trebleboost, bridge pup, parallel active with trebleboost, bridge pup, single (inner) 27 switch combinations with 2 band passive EQ on top of that. You want soundclips? Pah!

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='740256' date='Feb 9 2010, 06:46 PM']They do weigh an absolute ton, not over the 30kg limit with PF though. Also the case is very long as these have huge headstocks I had an RD Artist '77 in maple. Eventually sold it for around £470, was on eBay with a reserve of £600 and didn't get one bid![/quote] Now see, you just ruined it by talking in the past tense

£40 postage on Parcelforce 48? What's the case made of - concrete?

My Traben Chaos is sub 8lbs according to the bathroom scales, but will fail on all the aesthetics, I fear

Correct, the standard Fender ones won't fit. It is highly unlikely that you will find a perfect fit. Your best bet is to fill all the holes and drill new ones to match the standard Fender plate. That's what I've done for my Squiers. If you really can't or don't want to fill and drill then you could get your Squier one copied. I believe Sims Custom [url="http://www.simscustom.com/"]http://www.simscustom.com/[/url] offer such a service.

No hate mail here, it's only opinions. Welcome to the forum

[quote name='Greydad' post='737964' date='Feb 7 2010, 11:48 AM']Thanks, I didn't know that. I guess it's this one? [url="http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=326"]Hipshot Gibson bridge[/url][/quote] Yeah, that's the 2 point replacement. Make sure you get the right one! replaces replaces

[quote name='retroman' post='737838' date='Feb 7 2010, 07:45 AM']My EB2 has the old fashioned 2 point mounting bridge, and the only way of adjusting the intonation is via two grub screws that work against the back of the two posts Took ages to get it adjusted, and it's as near as I could ever hope to get it. IMHO, trying to get a low action on the short scale EB2 is pointless anyway, as they are only really any good at root note stuff. Getting up the dusty end of the board makes for some interesting, boomy sounds! I find the 3 point bridges far better. The one thing I have found with them is they don't like strings that have the silks at the ball end of the string. Always seem to wind up with the silk on the saddle of the E string, making getting the string heights difficult, as the saddle for the E always seems to wind up towards the very rear of the bridge. So far I have always managed to get a low action, and really good intonation with the 3 point bridge. I've seen those Hipshot bridges, and they look good. Fine for a gigging bass, but don't they clamp down onto the body, and leave a "footprint" in the finish? That's the one thing that put me off [/quote] Yeah, they do leave a little depression, I had one on my Epi EB-3 and when I took it off you could see the faintest of lines in the light. That's a modern poly finish I reckon, so it might be worse for nitro. Having said that, if you're never going to sell it, then there's no harm in it I guess. Plus the fact that you'd be hard pressed to see it past the original bridge if you were to change back. If it turns a reluctant heirloom into a much more usable, friendly instrument, I'd say it was worth it.

I'm 3 years out with my Gibson G-3. The idea does intrigue me though. Anyone selling a bass made in 1975? For not very much?

[quote name='Greydad' post='737757' date='Feb 6 2010, 11:49 PM']Truss rod has been tweaked as much as possible by pro guitar guy but the neck seems very bendy and is never quite flat. The problem with the bridge design is it is fixed in place on only two mounting posts (go figure) not four which would hold it flat against the body. As a result it tips forward slightly which lifts up the strings. To be honest it's a daft bridge design and the sensible thing to do is to replace it with something that works properly but if I did that it would no longer be original, so I've just left it as it is. It was my only bass for 23 years up until I bought my Stingray 4 when I was 40 - and then the Stingray just blew it away. Sad, but true.[/quote] Hipshot do a direct replacement for both the 2 and 3 point bridges. No modifications required

G&L SB-1?

[quote name='bassaussie' post='736039' date='Feb 5 2010, 12:14 PM']What's the difference between the Artist and the Custom? I can remember seeing these basses when they were first released. I think I was about 12 or 13. I used to go to a music store in the city that had them just to look at them, I thought they were great looking basses.[/quote] Artist is passive/active, Custom is passive only, Artist has passive/active/active with choke (cuts out mids, I guess we'd call it a slap switch now?), Custom has parallel/serial switching.

I appreciate that there is unavoidable wear and tear (like fret wear, lacquer wear on maple fingerboards etc.) and anyone can have an accident, but things like buckle rash get my goat because it is mostly avoidable and a heavily dinged instrument just implies a lack of care and attention beyond the accidental which I tend to see as a negative trait in people. If something's worth doing, it's worth doing right, and that includes instrument ownership.

GAS I expect I'll be making a Wanted post soon.

Wasn't Prosebass making some ultra portable, short scale thingies a while back? The Tanglewood Elfin? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=49584"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=49584[/url]

[quote name='alexharvay' post='734933' date='Feb 4 2010, 12:13 PM']I remeber this, didn't you put some of the metal parts in coke to clean them up?[/quote] You remember correctly