neepheid

I recently acquired an Epiphone EB-0 which I am quite enjoying playing. However while I was giving it a good setup I noticed that the tuner bushings are being pulled out of the headstock under string tension. I took one of the tuners off and not only did it have a slightly slack post which obviously bends down slightly under string tension exacerbating the problem but the bushings themselves have hardly got any grip as it is. I tried a quick fix of wrapping the bushing in thick paper (160gsm) to make it a bit thicker and pushing it in. It helped, but it still rose a little under tension. As far as I can see I have 2 ways to go: 1) fill and redrill the holes or 2) say "sod it" and get some tuners which have screw down bushings. I don't give a crap about correctness or screw holes showing (I'll fill 'em and colour the dowel ends red anyway, it'll be hardly noticeable) so I'm erring towards option 2. Screw down bushings are the way ahead - press fit ones only work if you make the hole the right bloody size in the first place (some hope when some people can't even drill straight) and place your machine heads correctly! Grumble, grumble.

[quote name='rjb' post='380434' date='Jan 14 2009, 04:57 PM']How about a Squier Bronco? [url="http://www.squierguitars.com/products/search.php?partno=0310902558"]http://www.squierguitars.com/products/sear...rtno=0310902558[/url][/quote] +1 for the Bronco - I picked up a Bronco for £50 delivered off eBay and it's a perfectly useable bass. It's not super light though, they're not [i]that[/i] much smaller in terms of bulk than their long scale cousins.

Just thought I'd start the ball rolling by mentioning that I just received an Epiphone EB-0 from Kevin. He packed it extremely well (yards of bubblewrap!) and posted it out real quick. He kept me informed of progress throughout and seems like a thoroughly nice chap. I do believe that this is one of his first sales, and if he keeps this standard up then you should have no worries trading with this gentleman.

Of course I could be flippant and answer your original question - yes the bass has a value

Matt bought my OLP MM3 - paid straight away and was a pleasure to deal with. I would not hesitate to do business with him again.

[quote name='Buzz' post='379286' date='Jan 13 2009, 04:37 PM']I got mine today, in black for my T-bird. I'll 2nd the well built comments, but raise the fact that while I got the saddle tightening allen key, I didn't get the mounting bolt one or the instructions! Huzzah! Gonna have to source an allen key the correct thickness as I've not gone one and thanks to the alignment being slightly off by about a 0.5 mm, I can't hand tighten them either, one's flush but the other is half out. Bummer. I wouldn't mind but with the2 sets of bolts, one's thicker than the other, but the thicker ones have slightly smaller holes for the allen key, I can bodge a screw driver to fit those, the small bodied bolts have larger holes which I can't bodge. Double bummer. Looks proper lush though, and the adjustment is a godsend as either my neck or my bridge wasn't aligned properly when the bass was made, E string is very near the edge of the fretboard.[/quote] If you want to seek out your own, I think it's an imperial size - 3/16". If you can't find one then let me know and you can borrow mine. This is a bit disappointing, it seems their mistake with mine wasn't a one-off

Welcome to the forum

Great stuff as usual!

Any factory can churn out a Friday afternoon special.

[quote name='BassManKev' post='375704' date='Jan 9 2009, 10:24 PM']i like the black one, dont care much for the other two....that 'bad-ass' comment is a little cheeky![/quote] It is anomalous, because it reminds me more of a Hipshot A style bridge than anything else.

This seems to be the etiquette thread, so I'll post my thoughts here. I'm all for us pooling our collective knowledge and using it to smash the scams of people who are passing something off as genuine when it is a forgery. I derive a great deal of satisfaction from the fraudulent listings being taken down, or for successfully getting in touch with winning bidders before they pay. However, we must remain impartial and level headed. "eBay police" may be a title bandied around in jest, but let's operate more like police and less like a lynch mob. If you suspect that something is a fake, then please stick to the facts - link to the offending item and outline the reasons why you think it's a fake. Try to keep it impersonal, even if you suspect that the seller knows damn well what they are doing. Apart from that, keep your eyes open and keep up the good work.

They're both short scale, that's not the issue here. I'd say go with the Mustang - it has a pickup which was actually designed for a bass (unlike the 6 pole piece pickup in an old Musicmaster) and has a nicer bridge (old Musicmasters have a 2 saddle bridge which is more difficult to intonate properly, whereas I believe the Mustang always had an individual saddle for each string). I can't say with regard to differences in sound but I'd guess that there would be.

[quote name='synaesthesia' post='377199' date='Jan 11 2009, 09:51 PM']The original Gibson EB-3's were short scale - 30 1/2", and the EB-3L were 34" scale.[/quote] We're talking Epiphones here, sorry for not making myself clear. The Epi EB-3 is 34" - I know they've called it the wrong thing. Not that it's a super accurate reissue like

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='HarryPotter' post='377174' date='Jan 11 2009, 09:30 PM']Using just the neck pup, how would you describe the tone please? The standard pup on an EB-0 is just like it says on the tin, muddy the main prob is there are so many mids it's not easy to tell the difference between an open E and an E played on the D string Ideally the Pup I'm after would lose some of the mids and gain a bit more articulation but keep the rumbling lows and gain a bit more in the way of dynamics. Ideally But right now I'd settle for not being microphonic.[/quote] From memory, I recall that the Model One definitely firmed up the tone, more articulation as you said but I can't remember how the old one sounded. I've got an EB-0 coming this week so I'll be able to make some better comparisons and maybe make some sound recordings for you so you can make your own mind up. Remember that the EB-3 might sound a little different due to the longer scale. I also installed a Hipshot Supertone bridge which I believe also had a beneficial effect on tone of the bass.

+1 for the DiMarzio Model One, I have one in my EB-3

The bass selection in both my local music shops is rather on the small side - not to mention the overpriced side

+1 for the thinking that these new look Rockbasses look a lot more businesslike - like the expensive ones they are supposed to be imitating. An interesting move by Warwick to big up the Warwick name rather than Rockbass as a seperate brand. It reminds me of the early Squier days where they were principally branded Fender with "Squier series" in smaller script. MIK/MIC/MII Fender anyone?

[quote name='henry norton' post='375301' date='Jan 9 2009, 03:54 PM']You could find a 34" unlined fretless neck and cut 32" scale fret spacings into it if you don't mind a bit of woodwork. You would have to reposition the bridge if you used a standard Jazz body but it's not too difficult to make your own with a few woodwork tools and perseverence.[/quote] Now that's thinking outside the box. A standard Fender neck which would have 20 frets at 34" scale would take at least 22 frets at 32" scale Fret 20 @ 34" scale is 591.58mm from the nut Fret 22 @ 32" scale is 584.72mm from the nut Fret 23 @ 32" scale is 597.52mm from the nut, so you might not be able to squeeze this one on. If you're going down this route, I'd make it a Jazz neck. Thinner at the nut and you're shortening the scale length means it'll feel in proportion, a P neck will feel very wide indeed (but you might want this, I don't know) You will need to reposition the bridge in this instance, basically 2" further towards the nut.

[quote name='Spoonman' post='375170' date='Jan 9 2009, 02:22 PM']Lately I've been half thinking I might build a bass, but I'm a bit new to this idea, so this is just a general query for anyone in the know really. I've always fancied a Jazz bass, but I'm not so keen on the necks and headstocks of them generally. I was thinking it might be cool to build a medium scale Jazz, like 32" similar to a Rickenbacker. I was wondering what kinds of things I'd need to keep in mind if I was going to do this. Obviously the fret sizes have to be different, but do you need to re-posistion the bridge or anything? Also if anyone has any idea where I could get a 32" scale neck with two tuning pegs on either side I'd love to know, I can't find them anywhere! Many thanks.[/quote] By fret sizes I assume you mean fret spacing. The bridge will have to be placed appropriately. You could design the neck/pocket around an existing bridge, but it's no biggie to fill some holes and put the bridge where it ought to go. As for procuring an ready made 32" scale neck, good luck. It's 34s all the way in the replacement market with the occasional 30 popping up. You'd probably have to butcher another 32" scale bass for its neck.

Hmph, none of this would happen if bands and sound engineers alike didn't operate a "controls at 11" policy, which seems to happen too often at many gigs I have witnessed. I shudder to think of the amount of muddy, distorted, clipped crap that I have had to put up with over the years. It was worse when I worked behind the bar in a live music venue, I couldn't just say "to hell with this, it sounds crap" and leave.

Planet Waves SOS tuners - you can carry these about with you everywhere and they will get you there or thereabouts in tune in a pinch.

Welcome to the forum GAS = Gear Acquisition Syndrome - the desire to purchase basses and associated equipment which one does not necessarily need.