Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

neepheid

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    10,286
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

Everything posted by neepheid

  1. [quote name='Mr Fudge' post='355692' date='Dec 16 2008, 10:17 AM']I have just put together my first bass ( a jazz/ precision mongrel ) from various bits. I must say that I am highly delighted with the results bur have a few little buzz's on the D string 6th and 7th fret. I have raised the saddles a bit to compensate but I feel it leaves the action of the string too high and generally feeling wrong, if you know what I mean. Months ago when I was tinkering with my MM sig someone posted an excellent link on dabbling with truss rods and their effect. Needless to say I can't find it. I wondered whether my problem could be solved by putting a little relief into the neck. Would this be a slight anticlockwise turn. I can't remember. Any words of advice would of course be much appreciated. I will be posting pics of my mongrel soon and reviewing the wizard thumpers after I gig it on Saturday. I haven't had it through a rig yet! Cheers.[/quote] Possibly. You should check the relief as is first. Hold the E string at the first fret with one hand then push it down onto the last fret by applying pressure after it. This uses your string as a straight edge to check the current gap. If it's non-existent then perhaps a little relief might help and yes, it would be anti-clockwise, you're loosening the truss rod to allow the string tension to pull some relief into the neck. Don't do too much at a time - a 1/4 turn at a time, and give it time to settle down before re-evaluating.
  2. Pics as promised: I know the E string has a bit of an angle coming out of the nut, but it's nothing Fender hasn't done in the past: So now it doesn't look like a toy. Fender types just look weird with miniature tuners, you need elephant ear tuners.
  3. [quote name='EssentialTension' post='355050' date='Dec 15 2008, 02:34 PM']Fender Imprecision?[/quote] Already done:
  4. Remember the music-outlet-shop's butchered Ripper? Here's a Grabber which eclipses that one by a fair margin: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260331151025"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=260331151025[/url] Seriously - why?
  5. Full size machine heads now installed. Pics later.
  6. [quote name='7string' post='353894' date='Dec 13 2008, 09:33 PM']Roger at THG Knobs [url="http://www.thgknobs.com"]www.thgknobs.com[/url] will make stacked knobs out of a choice of woods. I have a set on my Jackson and they're just the job.[/quote] Thanks for the link, that's just what I was looking for. Could be pricey though, might have to stick the EMG supplied ones on for now while I mull it over. In other news, I bored out the holes for through body stringing last night. In order to save a tiny amount of weight on this rather heavy body, I bored them the width of the ferrules top to bottom instead of boring from the top the width of the fattest string then boring the recess for the ferrule from the back to the depth of the ferrule. Minuscule difference, but a difference nonetheless.
  7. The knob conundrum is complicated by the concentric pot, the choices of stack knob out there isn't exactly awe-inspiring. 1) Matt finish Fender 2) Fender Deluxe Jazz 3) Hipshot O-ring 4) Standard Black Barrel 5) Mini barrel I'm thinking that rosewood knobs would look great, but most of them seem to be push fit (no good) and I haven't found anyone who does wood stack knobs. Bah.
  8. Also I decided that I dislike the way the neck heel pokes out of the body by about an inch - the perils of bringing together parts which were not designed for one another) Therefore I decided to reprofile the neck heel to suit: It's still rough - the bulk of the excess material is removed but it's a case of sanding it down to match the rest of the neck. Right now the amount of sawdust I'm creating is the reason it's called the "dusty end"
  9. Thanks a lot for all your kind words. I've been pottering around with some random things: 1) sanded flush the zebrano filler and test mounted the BTC system 2) mocked up knobs and pickups As you can see, I've been experimenting with different knobs (fnar) - the standard plastic EMG ones (the singles) and a gloss black metal dome (the concentric). To be honest, I don't like either The black metal one is too shiny and the EMGs just look a bit cheap. Maybe some dark wood ones instead?
  10. Cheers for the vote of confidence - beer debt settled! Oh, and bump
  11. neepheid

    Hi

    Welcome to the forum
  12. Hi there PRICE DROP - was £140 now £130 For sale I have an OLP MM3 5 string bass. It is natural finish, black pickguard and maple fingerboard. It is in good cosmetic condition - no dings. It has had some modifications - an improved Hipshot string retainer at the headstock and a battery box fitted. I was going to add active electronics to this bass but I never got round to finishing the job. The ground work is there in case anyone fancies doing the job. I'm sure you know the scoop on these - licensed copy of the Musicman Stingray 5, 34" scale, 1 humbucking pickup, currently wired Volume/Volume/Tone as per standard for these basses (the two volumes control each coil of the pickup). Enough yap, have some photos: pre-modifications Hipshot string retainer battery box Based upon recent eBay sales, these are going for £130-£150 + postage so let's say £130 plus postage.
  13. Why do people waste 4 characters putting "L@@K" in their auction titles - who searches for "L@@K"?
  14. "If you are not only "cheap" looking, but also quality"
  15. [quote name='benwhiteuk' post='350747' date='Dec 10 2008, 02:16 PM'] yeah me too, I've just asked for higher resolution pictures to be sent to my email address. We'll see what happens...[/quote] I've reported it to eBay. I'm going to be mean spirited and assume that the seller knows damn well what he/she is doing.
  16. [quote name='Cabal' post='350621' date='Dec 10 2008, 12:58 PM']Indeed, but for once in my life i wanted to avoid bodging it. [/quote] You won't. A screwdriver which fits in the holes in the edge of the wheel will suffice. It doesn't have to be tight - just make sure it fits right in the hole for good purchase when turning. You've more chance of bodging the object you use to turn the wheel than the wheel/truss rod itself.
  17. [quote name='lateralus462' post='350669' date='Dec 10 2008, 01:32 PM']Good point - although I am pretty sure I'll be using it for gigs - I bought it for one song in our set that'll sound awesome on fretless (it is quite a simple line so I should be OK).[/quote] Well, just to be argumentative I would say that the chrome control plate sitting there on its own looks daft. If they had rear routed this and mounted the controls [i]sans[/i] plate then maybe (although that would have increased cost). The whole thing smacks of "Jaco did it so it's THE WAY" kind of thing. To me it looks unfinished. To the OP - yes, remember to drill pilot holes. You have the luxury of a virgin surface to apply a pickguard to, no existing holes. Changing pickguards on a Squier is a nightmare of misaligned holes which need filled because no-one seems to be able to agree on where to drill. Or what angle sometimes. Make sure you get a pickguard which does not have the notch out for the truss rod adjustment at the neck heel, because you won't have one there!
  18. Pickup looks suspect also - shouldn't the mounting points be on the sides of the pickup (1 on one side, 2 on the other) instead of the top (and presumably bottom) of the pickup as shown in the bass in question?
×
×
  • Create New...