neepheid

Hmm, my first thought for an 335esque was an Epiphone Jack Casady, but the cheapest I can see it is 400. You might be able to pick one up on evilBay for less.

One man's "financially crippling" is another man's loose change. Can you give us an idea of budget?

They couldn't help me, but I managed to find some ramin (Gonystylus bancanus) dowelling at an online modelling supplies shop, which is light and plain wood, with hardness comparable to maple.

Welcome aboard, nice to see another late starter (only started taking playing seriously at 31 - after having an ornamental bass for 4 years previous )

Welcome aboard, but unless you explain the cyrillic username we'll have to call you ... Bob. Bert is invincible though.

[quote name='Jobiebass' post='183484' date='Apr 23 2008, 08:42 AM']My neck has turned up, my pups turned up, its alllll gooood. 1 slight problem, the neck is about 3 mm longer. hoping its not going to make too much of a diffrence. Not sure if I want to sort the neck and action out myself, or weather to take ti in a shop and get them to fit it. How hard is it to fit myself? ive offered the neck up to the neck pocket and its a tight fit, moves left and right a bit but im guessing thats expected? if anyones fitted a neck before and drilled the holes themselves, let me know how you got on. ill get some more pics this weekend, if its only a 2 min job to put the neck on and I dont have to take it in the shop, then it'll be sprayed this weekend.[/quote] You ought to have 3mm of adjustment in your bridge, so I wouldn't worry too much about that. Bear in mind also that the only important measurement is the distance from bridge to nut. Basically, put the neck in the pocket, flip it round then mark the centres of the holes in the heel of the neck using the neck screws (or a nail). Take it off and drill. It is preferable to use a drill press or at least a hand drill in a vertical stand. Experiment with a scrap bit of hardwood and different drill bits before you drill. Drill the holes in the scrap wood and check that the neck screws get a good bite. Drill your holes too wide and it'll be very inconvenient for you.

[quote name='Maine' post='183505' date='Apr 23 2008, 09:05 AM']This has probably been covered, but I couldn't find it in a search. How does one determine the scale length of a bass? Where should it be measured? I have a Warwick Corvette 5, and I'm unsure if it's 34" or 35". Thanks, Maine[/quote] The scale length is the length from the nut to the bridge, but you can save some aggro by measuring from the nut to the 12th fret and doubling that figure.

So, let the butchering commence!

Pics as promised: I just thought I'd put it up for interest. It's OK, but I'm quite prepared to butcher it. After all, it was only £122 delivered. I should get some of that back flogging the spare parts on evilBay. Got a Tusq nut blank ordered, spied some reasonably priced nut files and am making enquiries about maple dowelling for plugging the existing tuner holes.

[quote name='jono b' post='183026' date='Apr 22 2008, 06:20 PM']Poo Cherry red it'll (eventually) be. How much was the Hipshot? If the stock bridge is as bad as you say it'll probably be the first thing I do to it.[/quote] [url="http://www.basspartsresource.com/bridge_hipshots.htm"]http://www.basspartsresource.com/bridge_hipshots.htm[/url] I ordered it from them on eBay (user: guitarpartsresource1) - $100.79 + $25 postage, ended up being about £60. Taxman uninterested it seems.

Well, this gives you an idea of the work involved in getting a fingerboard off a neck: [url="http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm"]http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm[/url]

Welcome aboard. Who knows, you could find your perfect 5 string here

Anyone know where I can obtain some maple dowel suitable for filling in tuner holes (9/16" (approx 14mm) diameter)? Turning a 6 string neck into a 5, at least one has to be filled but I might do all 5 and redrill them all for optimum placing.

Check what kind of pots they are. Linear taper pots (often marked Bxxx, where xxx is the ohm rating of the pot, often 250 or 500 in passive basses) will do this. Make sure you have log or audio taper pots (marked Axxx, as above), they work in the way the human ear expects.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='182309' date='Apr 21 2008, 10:01 PM']I've been off-and-on GASing for an EB of some description for the last 2 years, and that looks very nice indeed! (and it's certainly a good lot of bass for the money) Just out of interest what electrical components are attached to the varitone switch?[/quote] The switch is very boring, not a varitone at all. 3 positions. Guess which three. I've added some extra pics to the top of the post, showing the innards. I wouldn't mind fitting a proper varitone in it some day.

[quote name='jono b' post='182273' date='Apr 21 2008, 09:20 PM']Best bass porn so far! I've been gassing for one of these for ages, my girlfriends has even given the green light, it's just a case of mustering together £200 to buy one, which to be fair is a bargain price for a cracking bass. Is cherry red the only colour? I fancy a worn brown one, I know Gibson do one in that finish. Very nice Neepheid, very nice.[/quote] As far as I'm aware, Epiphone only do it in cherry red or black (ebony).

[quote name='Shockwave' post='182271' date='Apr 21 2008, 09:18 PM']Looks damn nice Chrome seems to be only type of hardware that works on the EB series. Which is the Standard scale versions? The EB0?[/quote] Epiphone: EB-3 is 34" scale EB-0 is 30.5" scale Gibson EB-0 and EB-3 are 30.5" scale EB-0L, EB-3L and EB-4L are 34.5" scale SG is 30.5" scale

I've lost out on stuff to that guy before. Curses, etc.

[quote name='Doc B' post='181978' date='Apr 21 2008, 04:47 PM']Very cool - didn't realise they came with a set neck.[/quote] Aye, the Epi EB-3 is set neck, the EB-0 is bolt on. This is probably where the confusion arises.

I get annoyed when people slag off the EB-3, and Gibson basses in general. Each to their own and all that, but this was my first bass, and as such I get very protective of it. I know it's unbalanced, I know that it doesn't have a great repertoire of bass sounds, but [i]look[/i] at it - gorgeous cherry red on mahogany from top to toe, lovely crown inlays, set neck. Just lovely. It looked good when I posted up my gear back in January: Well, now it's even better. I won't bore you with the technical details, see the review of the replacement bridge in the appropriate forum or the wiki. This post is all about the cherry red porn Mmm.

Hi there I recently acquired a Hartke HA3500 head (350W @ 4ohms, 250 @ 8ohms), and I'm wondering what to partner it up with. I'm completely green when it comes to cabs. I suppose I should tell you where I'm at playing-wise. I'm not gigging at the moment, just doing some jamming with a guitarist. The rest of the time it's just practice. I'd want something reasonably easy to transport, so would it be best to pick up a 2x10 for now? Maybe augment it with a 1x15 if I ever step up to the stage? Not looking to spend too much at the moment, will probably try to pick up something second hand. Just wondered if anyone had any recommendations for manufacturers, and some discussion on configuration (ie. is my reasoning sound?)

I wish I could keep it. Hopefully I'll get visiting rights I've been lacquering up the neck, it's starting to look nice and satin-y: Thanks for all the support, it is greatly appreciated.

No way! You've been here for ages. It seems silly to say but welcome aboard

A thick, wide suede type leather strap helps. What kind of strap are you using?

Oh, forgot to mention - the donor 6 string arrived yesterday. It's a Harper SB-180, one of a myriad of eBay cheapy rebranded Chinese hypermassproduced jobs. Had a quick tune up and a play - it's actually not as bad as I thought it would be, neck is chunky (but I like that) and the pickups have a reasonable output. Some of the routing is a bit uneven, the bridge is a little flimsy and the tuners aren't the best (a lot of slack when you change direction). The neck is a little wider than I wanted at the heel (82mm at 24th fret vs 79mm for the Warmoth wide Gecko 5) but I won't quibble over 3mm. I'll get some pics up soon.