neepheid

Made a start to clearing up the mess at the back. There's far too much material taken out of the back, you can see the hole where one of my bridge screws comes through. Oops! First step is to square off the hole. It is fortunate that the area in question is a relatively featureless part of the zebrano, and I have a suitably plain piece about 15mm thick to glue in the void, covering up that bridge screw and giving me enough material to drill for through body stringing.

/me crawls back under a rock

Why is the automatic inexpensive == poor quality link being made here? For an open minded community which extols the virtues of SX and Squier VM basses, I find this rather puzzling and disappointing

[quote name='charic' post='179917' date='Apr 18 2008, 04:30 PM']Hmm, i werent quite sure where to put it myself. What kinda sound do you get out of these?[/quote] I have used a couple of them now (an SE2 in my 2007 project build and an SE2-A in my OLP MM3). Like the tech specs say, 12dB boost/cut at the stated frequencies. What that translates into is a pretty wide range of sounds. I used the SE2 with an SD stingray style humbucker at the neck end and a SE Jazz Quarter Pounder at the bridge. I can make anything from deep, muddy tones (all bass on the stingray) to some pretty twangy stuff (all treble on the jazz). Must get around to recording some sound clips.

Cue the standard plug for Artec preamps/EQ. Inexpensive for a first punt at upgrading. These would be suitable for your 4 hole needs (assuming this is a 2 pickup bass) SE2 - 2 band EQ (blend, master volume, bass, treble) SE3A - 3 band EQ (blend, master volume, mid freq, bass/treble on concentric pot) SE3PA - 3 band parametric EQ (blend, master volume, mid/freqency on concentric pot, bass/treble on concentric pot) [url="http://www.artecsound.com/se2.html"]http://www.artecsound.com/se2.html[/url] [url="http://www.artecsound.com/se3.html"]http://www.artecsound.com/se3.html[/url] [url="http://www.artecsound.com/se3p.html"]http://www.artecsound.com/se3p.html[/url] You can get some of them from Thomann, but you'll have to have a hunt about for the SE3(P)A. The SE2 is about £25. Note to mods: this probably belongs in Repairs & Tech forum.

Welcome aboard. Don't worry too much about the introduction thing. You've done it now and that's the main thing. It's not really an etiquette thing - I think it's good from the community point of view and it helps sellers too, by letting potential punters know a bit about who they're dealing with.

OK, using the BIN prices: price £460 shipping £55 cost for tax purposes: £515 customs duty @ 3.7% (worst case scenario): £19.06 VAT @ 17.5%: £90.13 TOTAL: £624.19 Once you factor in potential brokerage fees from courier (ParcelFarce charge you £8 to pay the tax on your behalf), you're not looking at a huge saving. Do you pay tax on stuff from Switzerland?

My Fecker Imprecision started life as a Chinese Squier Affinity P-Bass body and neck which I picked up for parts. Replaced the tuners with ones from a Mexican Fender, popped in a Seymour Duncan QP and a Badass II. Took it to a jam a couple of nights ago, and my guitarist friend (who also is a pretty nifty bass player of several years experience) said many positive things about it, comparing it favourably with his Japanese Tokai Hard Puncher. This seems to back up the idea that there's little wrong with the wood, it's just that the hardware on Affinity series Squiers is crap. Certainly the tuners were those horrible cheap nasty rectangular enclosed affairs. Yuck!

[quote name='Clarky' post='179549' date='Apr 18 2008, 10:04 AM']A warning, you get stung for tax buying from Japan. Also I bought a nice off white 77 RI P bass (very Ramones) from him and was a bit surprised when it arrived to find I had to assemble it (he had taken neck etc off for packing). Probably wouldn't worry most people on this site but I am scared sh*tless when it comes to anything practical![/quote] You will be indeed taxed, they tend to notice large boxes containing guitars. Taking the neck off is a pretty sensible move for shipping actually, not only does it lessen the chance of neck breakage, it can mean postage savings by being able to be shipped in a (relatively) smaller box.

Welcome to the forum. Nice bass you've got there.

[b]Introduction[/b] Some of you may have noted that I was starting to have some problems with my Epiphone EB-3 - bridge posts lifting out of the body under string tension being the main one. I started to fix the problem by epoxying the threaded inserts into the body, but I remained sceptical that they would remain in place. I also started to get very annoyed with the Gibson/Epiphone 3 point bridge design. In my opinion it is a bit rubbish for the following reasons: 1) It's on stilts! Very little bridge - body contact 2) Only 2 way adjustable (overall bridge height and string length) - that's fine if your bass is well made and all the pickup poles square up, but what if they don't? 3) Did I mention it was on stilts? I don't think I'm the first person to have the bridge posts lift out of the body under tension. The problem doesn't seem to be limited to Epiphones either, there's been someone with a Gibson SG bass post on here with the same problem, and the instructions which come with the Hipshot Supertone bridge (which I'll talk about in more detail in a mo) suggest it might be an idea to glue them in prior to installation. I suppose it could be worse, it could be an early Gibson bar bridge. But it could be so much better! Like if they'd used one of these instead: [b]The Hipshot Supertone bass bridge[/b] [size=1]Picture taken from [url="http://www.basspartsresource.com/bridge_hipshots.htm"]Bass Parts Resource[/url][/size] The Hipshot Supertone bass bridge is a direct replacement bridge for the Gibson/Epiphone 3 point bass bridge. It is designed to fit the existing threaded inserts found in the body of the bass. It has a cut out in the bottom of the base plate to fit over the post at the front of the 3 point bridge. It is fully adjustable in all the ways you'd like - independent string height, string length and side to side spacing. The saddles are identical to Hipshot's A style bridges. [b]Initial impressions[/b] - 7 On removing the bridge from the packaging, I was immediately impressed with the sheer bulk of it - this is a large piece of metal, make no mistake about it. It's at least twice the mass of the old 3 point bridge. It also came with two kinds of bolt for attaching the bridge, coarse thread and a finer thread. I was surprised to see that the two different types of bolt had slightly different heads on them, one nicer looking than the other (mental note at the time - bet it's the ugly ones I need for my bass). Instructions were a little on the flimsy side - one scruffy folded up bit of paper which told me that I might want to glue the inserts into the body as they have a tendency to lift. Just as well the installation is a doddle then. Also in the package was an allen key to tighten the mounting bolts. What they forgot to include was an allen key to adjust the saddles. Hmph. Just as well I had the key from my A style bridge on my custom build. I really wish that hardware suppliers would brush up their presentation a bit. Look at EMG for instance - you buy a pickup or a wiring harness and you get a nice box, items inside shrouded in protective foam and instructions that don't look like someone just photocopied something for the thousandth time. So, very positive initial impression, let down somewhat by the presentation and the missing allen key. [b]Fitting[/b] - 9 Basically, it's simple. First off you take off the strings (hold the 3 point bridge when you remove the last string - there's nothing but string tension holding it in place up against the mounting bolts) and then remove the 3 point bridge. Remove the 3 bolts that were there (should just be able to use fingers) and find out which of the two types of bolt supplied with the Supertone is suitable for your inserts. Compare them visually, or try them in the hole. To glue or not to glue? Well it's up to you. I had to because I was having the pulling out problem but you may not. If all is well and your bridge hasn't moved in 10 years then I think you'll be OK. Basically, put it over the inserts (remember the front one is not used in this design, it just sits over the top of it), pop the bolts in the holes and tighten up using the supplied allen key. Before you fully tighten it, make sure you're well lined up. Then you've got the joys of action and intonation. Once I had turned the place upside down for an hour and a half looking for the damn allen key to adjust the saddles (it's some weird imperial size between 1.5 and 2mm), I finally located the little pest and got to work. Thanks a lot Hipshot - your omission turned a < 1 hour job into nearly 3. If you've worked with Hipshot A style bridges before, then you'll be in familiar territory - 2 grub screws for saddle height, 1 behind the right hand one to loosen/tighten the side to side part of the saddle which you then move by hand to the required position then tighten, sprung phillips head machine screw accessed at the back of the bridge for intonation adjustment. [b]In use[/b] - 9 It certainly looks good fitted - what a difference it is to see a solid, chunky bridge sitting on the deck rather than the old 3 point design. The improved adjustablity is welcome - using the old 3 point bridge, my strings didn't line up very well with the bridge pickup polepieces, but I've managed to get a bit closer now (be better if I didn't have to compensate for shoddy placement though, bah) The improvement in sustain seemed immediately obvious to me, other improvements in tone are more subjective but I reckon the bass has a tighter, meatier sound now - more assertive and defined, less "up in the air" (like the old bridge, fnar). It also seems to have had a slight positive effect on the renowned neck dive issue of long scale EB/SG basses. It makes sense in theory, you add extra weight at the bridge then it ought to improve the balance. It no longer makes a dive for the floor, slowed only by the friction of the wide leather strap, it gracefully descends then stays fairly level. Bonus! The only question mark sitting over this is the potential for damage to the finish of the bass. By Hipshot's own admission - "To achieve maximum tonal transference, the SuperTone is solidly fastened to your instrument. A very slight shadow of the bridge footprint may result." Of course it will take a while for this to become apparent. This may affect your choice to apply this upgrade to a valuable vintage instrument. It is reversible as such, you could easily put back the 3 point bridge at a later date if you wish, but the paper thin lacquers of vintage instruments may not take kindly to this sudden introduction of a big piece of metal being squished down onto them. I may revisit this review at a later date and lift the Supertone off my EB-3 and report any findings I have. I have no qualms about this potential issue - there's no way I'm going back to the 3 point bridge. Bye bye! [b]Overall[/b] - 8 All in all this is a worthwhile upgrade for any Gibson/Epiphone bass using the 3 point bridge. It makes the 3 point design look decidedly past its sell by date, tightens up your bass's tone, seems to have positive effects on neck dive and looks the business. The only reservations I have are the missing allen key (grr) and the potential for marking the surface of the bass, which may put off the vintage crowd. However, if you're a player then I can't see a circumstance which would compel you to go back to the old bridge. Highly recommended by this basschatter.

Welcome aboard

Welcome to the forum

[quote name='Clarky' post='178555' date='Apr 17 2008, 08:59 AM']When I attach the Hipshot bridge, what happens with the bridge earthing wire? Sorry for ignorance but never changed a bridge before .... Many thanks Clarky[/quote] Nothing - the Hipshot uses the existing threaded inserts - it comes with two types of bolt with different thread pitches, so check first to see which one you need. I guess one is for Gibson stuff, one is for Epi. My Epi used the coarse threaded bolt. Remember when you're epoxying the inserts into the body to leave an unglued strip where the wire can make contact with it. The instructions that come with the bridge also recommend glueing them in. Pics tonight!

[quote name='BassManKev' post='178004' date='Apr 16 2008, 04:25 PM']ye im up for that any recommended stains??[/quote] It's probably lacquer you'll need. Which type (gloss/satin) depends on the finish of the rest of the neck - if you want it to match. Even applying clear lacquer will impart a little yellow glow to bare wood (maple in this case, I presume). I'd guess that's all the colouring you'll need, can't see a budget manufacturer going to the trouble of staining wood or using particular specially coloured lacquers when finishing necks.

[quote name='BassManKev' post='177977' date='Apr 16 2008, 03:55 PM']iv just done a very poor job, tried to sand off the horrible 'westfield' logo off my jazz copy, and is consequently left with a very obvious lighter area, and you can still make out the outline of westfield im guessing a light stain would sort this?[/quote] Colour matching is always tricky. I'd sand the entire face of the headstock and refinish the lot if you want it to look good.

Yes, the posts were lifting on my Epiphone EB-3. I fixed it in 2 steps: 1. Epoxy the threaded inserts into the body. WARNING - there may be a bridge earthing wire in the hole nearest to the controls - make sure you leave a non glue covered strip on this insert and make sure the earthing wire makes contact with this bit. 2. Suspecting that didn't fully do the job, I replaced the 3 point bridge with a Hipshot Supertone bridge. Just did this last night, yet to carry out any full scale tests, but it looks the mutts nuts; big, solid and solidly on the body of the bass, rather than the bridge on stilts. This is still cheaper than £100. Bridge was £64 delivered from Basspartsresource in the states (got it through their eBay shop but the price was the same) [url="http://www.basspartsresource.com/bridge_hipshots.htm"]http://www.basspartsresource.com/bridge_hipshots.htm[/url] More info here: [url="http://www.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=264"]http://www.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=...etail&p=264[/url]

[quote name='WalMan' post='175965' date='Apr 13 2008, 11:29 PM']In your dreams They turn up on eBay occasionally, but beware shysters with little or no feedback who have only just joined & [b]are in Aberdeen!![/b] There have bee a few scammy ones recently. And you will need some fairly serious folding available nowadays sadly. I'd love a 5'er, but unfortunately have yet to come up with a plan quite cunning enough [/quote] Yeah, watch those Aberdonians, but the Orcadians are worse! Beats me why the scammers don't try Shetland, it's even further away.

[quote name='Old Horse Murphy' post='170138' date='Apr 5 2008, 09:40 AM']Mate I wish I had the talent and patience to do something like this- great job as always[/quote] Man, talent doesn't come into it really - I'm a beginner. Completed instrument count = 1. Jobs completed for other people = 1. Customisations complete = 2. Projects currently simmering = 3. It does take patience, but I find all the physical time consuming stuff like sanding rather theraputic. Routing is a bit scary when you're doing it to someone else's gear Lacquering is a bit boring, it's all the waiting around for drying time. When I go to the workshop to do lacquering, I take a bass with me these days so at least I can get some practice in while I'm waiting I'm very lucky to have snagged a place to work undisturbed. I also am lucky to have my dad to ask for advice on things, he's the sort of person who would rather do a job himself than get a tradesperson in ie. handy at most things. I still do routing out at my folks' place because dad has a workmate (must get one of my own) plus routers are bloody noisy things, so I prefer to do that out in the middle of nowhere. Thanks for the kind words

Burns Marquee bass springs to mind: [url="http://www.burnsguitars.com/product.php?product_id=marqueebass"]http://www.burnsguitars.com/product.php?pr..._id=marqueebass[/url] Can't think of others off the top of my head.

Well, I own both and I have to admit that I'm unlikely to ever make a passive bass. My 3 passive basses (Epi EB-3, AXL Player Deluxe and Fecker Imprecision (heh)) are all very well and good, and fit particular purposes (like classic rock) but for sheer variety of tone available I can't see past active. I can set my first custom build to make mud (all bass no treble on the MM neck pickup) to twang (all treble no bass on J bridge pickup) and lots inbetween. I added a 2EQ circuit to my OLP MM3 and opened up the tonal possibilities - as a passive bass it was pretty limited by the odd electronics (linear pots, eh? you might as well use switches, OLP). My fretless Squier Bullet build will be EMGed (EMG-P), as will the Zebrano Wideboy 5 (EMG-40J (bridge) + EMG-40P5/DC/CS (neck, undecided yet) + EMG BTC system 2EQ). I'm not being down on passive basses, but it's all about flexibility. I don't know enough to say if active electronics lose some mystical passive tone, but seeing as I don't believe in mojo (your car doesn't have mojo - it's just a wreck, your suit doesn't have mojo - it's just scruffy, your bass doesn't have mojo - it just needs repaired), I'd want some experience of this tone based upon repeatable experiment (same bass passive and active) to evaluate the difference. Until then it'll be a case of "played some nice active basses, played some nice passive basses" and purely a preference based upon a limited set of parameters. Having said that, there's something inexplicable stopping me putting an active circuit into the EB-3. I suspect there's not much tone to be unlocked from the mudbucker/mini bass humbucker combo. Not that it's immune to other tinkering - got a Hipshot Supertone bridge coming for it soon

Welcome to the forum

They still take a while (even when I'm looking at work - I work at a university btw - SuperJANET is a little faster than broadband ), and then the script that comes up afterwards and shrinks them to fit then mucks up your position in the thread while you're trying to read. I always scale down to 800x600 or thereabouts. Play nice!